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Discussion Starter #1
So i got in the Accent to go to work today and it was dead. It was odd. I saw that my lights on my blinker-indicator lever were switched to on, so i figured i left the lights on (even though i don't even remember using them.) So i got the battery charged and dropped it back in. She started under her own power. Ran just fine.

My mom watched me do this and she said, "Are your lights always on?" She showed me that my rear tail lights were on and said that they were on before i even got in and started the car. She said they came on as soon as i plugged the battery in. This is weird because i had turned the little dial on the blinker lever to off for the lights. However, the front running lights and the rear lights were still on. So i drove the car around the neighborhood to charge it a bit more and then turned the car off-- the lights stayed on. I messed around with switches and the lever but they wouldn't turn off. So i had to unhook the battery to assure that it wouldn't drain the battery again. What the **** is going on here, guys?
 

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However, the front running lights and the rear lights were still on.
Front lights probably are DRLs and should be on when the engine is. Rears might be a stuck brake light switch.

BUT.....I would think that everything should go off after the key does, maybe after a short delay.

Further testing will be required.......and probably a shop visit too.
 

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I would assume the brake lights stuck on.. nice bright red light with middle brake lamp illuminated also ??

Unplug the brake light switch, did the lights turn off ??

Brake light switch is common fault item on Accent, theough the customer concern we get is that somebody told them they have no brake lights, or shifter lock wont relaese to move from P to R or N to R and up into P..

Send me VIN, may be available 110 recall for the new style brake light switch
 

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Discussion Starter #4
[1]I would assume the brake lights stuck on.. nice bright red light with middle brake lamp illuminated also ??

[2]Unplug the brake light switch, did the lights turn off ??

[3]Brake light switch is common fault item on Accent, theough the customer concern we get is that somebody told them they have no brake lights, or shifter lock wont relaese to move from P to R or N to R and up into P..

[4]Send me VIN, may be available 110 recall for the new style brake light switch
1.) It isn't very bright, but it is the bottom bulb and the top. Also with the front ambers on. Keys out of the car, engine off, doors shut.

2.)I don't know what 'brake light switch' you're referring to.

3.)Well, i'm pretty sure i have brake lights, and i have a 5-speed.

4.)PMed.
 
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Brake light switch is the electrical switch located adjacent to the brake pedal. Its contacts are normally open, and close whenever the brake pedal is more than slightly depressed.

Based on your description of the lights lefts on, I don't think this is your problem.

It sounds more like a problem with the parking light relay or headlight switch assembly.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Check post #89 in the what problems thread
Hm, so it's likely a switch problem of some sort?
I don't know exactly how that works-- i've never brought a car in before. I'm at 112,000 miles so i'd not likely get it taken care of for free, right? It wouldn't be under any kind of recall or anything, with my luck. I wonder how much something like that costs to fix.
 

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Ok,, here we go... I need you do a test for me..

Go out to car, and remove the access panel to reveal the I/P fuse block (left lower dash, says OBD on it)..

Powe5r up the car so that the exterior lighting is stuck on when you turn off light switch..

Are they stuck on now ?? IF YES,,,,,,, I want you to take a large plastic screwdriver handle or steel extension from a socket set and tap/knock on the fuse box firmly a few times..

If the lights turn off, you need to replace the I/P junction box (fuse box).. integral relay inside the fuse box is burnt and contacts wont seperate to open the circuit
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Alright, so i hooked up the battery (I left it unhooked so it wouldn't die) and the lights came on once i put the ground on. Then i did as you said and bonked that fuse relay thing a couple times and they turned off. Then i turned the car off, then back on the the lights turned on and wouldn't turn off again, so i had to bonk it a second time.

Is that what i'll need to do every time i turn the car off? Also, does that mean that i now need to replace the junction box integral relay thing?
 

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91950-1G040 "should" be the correct number for the I/P module..

Look around at it, may find tag to verify.. Dealer can verify using VIN when loading the car into the catalog.

Approx price on the part is $155
 

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Discussion Starter #11
91950-1G040 "should" be the correct number for the I/P module..

Look around at it, may find tag to verify.. Dealer can verify using VIN when loading the car into the catalog.

Approx price on the part is $155
So if i don't have the money to replace it, just smacking the fuse box should temporarily remedy it, correct?


Thank you for your help, by the way-- i really appreciate it and you were spot on.
 
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Ugh, welded relay. Bummer that it's so expensive. Modular relays are much cheaper but I guess they didn't have enough room for that type in the accent.

Looks like solid troubleshooting though.
 
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So if i don't have the money to replace it, just smacking the fuse box should temporarily remedy it, correct?
Yeah, you just need to separate the contacts in the relay somehow. Spring tension should be doing it but it isn't. So if you're cool with thumping it loose each time, it will work.

Sometimes you can rehabilitate a bad relay by filing the contacts. I have done this many times with other relays but have never attempted it with this model. I don't know how hard it is to open up and work on.

Seen any evidence of flooding in this car?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Yeah, you just need to separate the contacts in the relay somehow. Spring tension should be doing it but it isn't. So if you're cool with thumping it loose each time, it will work.

Sometimes you can rehabilitate a bad relay by filing the contacts. I have done this many times with other relays but have never attempted it with this model. I don't know how hard it is to open up and work on.

Seen any evidence of flooding in this car?
No, i haven't. And fuses and relays are something i have absolutely no experience in except for pulling fuses to stop Traction Control and Stability Control systems.
 

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We see stuck relay in a couple of our model.. NF Sonata, HD Elantra, Tucson, think neighbor done couple in YF Sonata.

I got a couple modules sitting around here.. HD Elantra circuit board sitting here on desk beside monitor.
 

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Discussion Starter #17
We see stuck relay in a couple of our model.. NF Sonata, HD Elantra, Tucson, think neighbor done couple in YF Sonata.

I got a couple modules sitting around here.. HD Elantra circuit board sitting here on desk beside monitor.
And that's the part i'd need? If so, could i buy it from you (eventually)? I also would likely have to have someone install it for me.
 
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I think I see the pattern now... you apparently left the switch on, which would have left the parking lights on (headlights are cut when ignition is cut) and the parking lights eventually drained the battery.

While the battery was low but not fully drained, the relay would have "buzzed" making and breaking contact very quickly, overheating the contacts until they welded.

We had a few episodes of lights left on draining the battery early on- I installed a lite-minder to prevent recurrences. Never realized there was the potential for this problem to burn out an expensive relay along the way...
 
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I just looked up the part... according to the drawing on this link, the part is just the fuse and relay panel itself and does not seem to include any relays.

From the drawing, the car appears to use ordinary modular relays like most other cars after all.

If this is the case, I would expect that you could replace the correct relay and be on your way in minutes. And modular relays are typically between $3-25... much less than the fuse panel assembly.
 

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I just looked up the part... according to the drawing on this link, the part is just the fuse and relay panel itself and does not seem to include any relays.

From the drawing, the car appears to use ordinary modular relays like most other cars after all.

If this is the case, I would expect that you could replace the correct relay and be on your way in minutes. And modular relays are typically between $3-25... much less than the fuse panel assembly.
Please refer to ETM.. his relay is an integral part of the junction box.. look at the tail light diagram, and click the "fuse-relay" choice and look at I/P module diagram.
 
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