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Discussion Starter #1
I've been having a whine that I believe originates from the transmission. Whine matches well with shifts (like if I drive casually and the tranny has a slurred/slow shift the sound also changes pitch accordingly). Very prominent at lower speeds and probably there at higher speeds but then wind/road drowns it out. No change with temp. Mechanic checked the power steering and the belt and they seem ok. Nearing 100k mile mark. It could've been there a long time but I had 2 bad VCA motors so previously all I heard was engine racket for the last 35000 miles..

If I had to describe if you've ever been in a 90s Ford Crown Vic, the whine like that.

Thoughts? Is that normal?
 

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Some sources of a whine may be the transmission, the power steering pump, the alternator, or the idler pulley for the serpentine belt. For the last three, you can use a length of hose to act as a stethoscope to try to locate it. Put one end near your ear and run the other end around the engine when it's idling.

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Discussion Starter #3
Some sources of a whine may be the transmission, the power steering pump, the alternator, or the idler pulley for the serpentine belt. For the last three, you can use a length of hose to act as a stethoscope to try to locate it. Put one end near your ear and run the other end around the engine when it's idling.

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Thanks I'll try to have them do a more thorough diagnostic though both the mechanics I use are old school and kind of like if it ain't broken, don't worry about it...

The transmission is sealed 'for life' correct?
 

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If mean tell they die and quit, yeah but you can and should change the fluid especially if it was used for towing by now. Drain and fill two times to get enough new fluid in the mix with OEM Spec'd fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
If mean tell they die and quit, yeah but you can and should change the fluid especially if it was used for towing by now. Drain and fill two times to get enough new fluid in the mix with OEM Spec'd fluid.
Is there a how to for this somewhere? If it is super easy I might give it a go. There is always back and forth whether or not to mess with these sealed trannies. Plus I don't think I'm going to keep this thing more than a year. I tried towing 2x and for me the absolute max I would feel safe with is 2000lb max. I tried 3000lb+ and it felt downright dangerous... Less than 30 miles round trip on the 3000lb trip. the other trip was maybe 100 miles.
 

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Its the filling which maybe tricky as you're under the vehicle. Someone here with a manual on that build will pipe in on this I am sure. Heat is what deteriorates the fluid and if to far gone can cause transmission failure with clutch pack etc wearing out.
 

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Ditto on what Tripp said about OEM fluid. The only time I would use non-OEM fluid is if the transmission had been completely flushed of all old fluid, including the torque converter. Mixing dissimilar fluids, especially if one of them is old, introduces a possibility of future problems.


I've done pan drains, meaning about half the total fluid capacity, many times in different cars. It can extend fluid life and be enough to take care of shifting problems. Not to mention it's good PM after 60,000 to 100,000 miles.
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Discussion Starter #8
Ditto on what Tripp said about OEM fluid. The only time I would use non-OEM fluid is if the transmission had been completely flushed of all old fluid, including the torque converter. Mixing dissimilar fluids, especially if one of them is old, introduces a possibility of future problems.


I've done pan drains, meaning about half the total fluid capacity, many times in different cars. It can extend fluid life and be enough to take care of shifting problems. Not to mention it's good PM after 60,000 to 100,000 miles.
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If mean tell they die and quit, yeah but you can and should change the fluid especially if it was used for towing by now. Drain and fill two times to get enough new fluid in the mix with OEM Spec'd fluid.
What is the OEM part number for the tranny fluid? How many quarts will I need? So no non OEM is suggested? Only if I have trouble sourcing the OEM stuff...


Its the filling which maybe tricky as you're under the vehicle. Someone here with a manual on that build will pipe in on this I am sure. Heat is what deteriorates the fluid and if to far gone can cause transmission failure with clutch pack etc wearing out.
Looks easy enough though on the youtube video it has fill from top?
 

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I didn't read through the whole post but remove the serpentine belt and see if the whine is gone.
 

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What is the OEM part number for the tranny fluid?

How many quarts will I need?
Buy 6qt so you have enough, remove drain Fri eve, leave sit to drip, refill Sat sometime

So no non OEM is suggested?

Only if I have trouble sourcing the OEM stuff...
Why would you have trouble sourcing OEM stuff,, visit part counter at local Hyundai or Kia dealer

Looks easy enough though on the youtube video it has fill from top?
Drain plug at bottom of case,, fill through dipstick tube like many cars of past days
ATF -> 00232-19012 SP-III $6 something /qt

We keep roughly 4-5 case on hand,, as should most any local Hyundai / Kia dealer
 

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A 90’s Crown Victoria sound, great analogy. Power steering pump whine is the likely noise.

It follows engine speed so it can be confused with transmission noise.

I have an older 3.5 and I think they are a fairly quiet engine so the hydraulic pump noise is noticeable.

Belt can be removed and engine run for a bit to prove it’s the source. System only holds maybe half a quart, I would flush out and replace the fluid with 100k mikes on it. Might help a little. Dirty screen in fluid reservoir can also cause pump noise from cavitation.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
A 90’s Crown Victoria sound, great analogy. Power steering pump whine is the likely noise.

It follows engine speed so it can be confused with transmission noise.

I have an older 3.5 and I think they are a fairly quiet engine so the hydraulic pump noise is noticeable.

Belt can be removed and engine run for a bit to prove it’s the source. System only holds maybe half a quart, I would flush out and replace the fluid with 100k mikes on it. Might help a little. Dirty screen in fluid reservoir can also cause pump noise from cavitation.
I looked into this but the fluid for sure is at normal fill levels hot and cold. And I'm not in front of the Santy right now but how do you flush and replace? I saw a screen. In my old car I did the slow turkey baster suck and refill but in the Santy I'm pretty sure there is a screen there...
 

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Yeah screen in bottom of plastic reservoir normally. Remove a few 10mm hold down bolts and the hoses, spray out with brake cleaner and compressed air, rinse with new power steering fluid.

Fill up reservoir afterwards, run engine 10 seconds then shut off, wait 10 mins for foam to subside. Refill reservoir, cap back on restart and cycle steering lock to lock both sides and shut off again, refill reservoir again. Level in reservoir very important, needs to be above cold fill a bit.

The pumps themselves are quite tuff; usually high pressure lines rot out before pump seals go. In the north anyway.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Stupid question but on a 2012 3.5L is the return line for the reservoir on the top or bottom? On youtube some people disconnect the top line and others the bottom. Or does it matter if I flush? The return supposed to be low pressure?
 

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If you unhook the high pressure side you get a mess with the high pressure flow.

There is a cooler line running under neath the radiator , low point of system and you can gravity feed to bucket.
Low pressure side will be squeeze clamps; factory crimps means high psi.

Flush IMO not really necessary. Additives wear out in the fluid like in tranny. Couple dump and fills fine, fluid pretty cheap.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
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If you unhook the high pressure side you get a mess with the high pressure flow.

There is a cooler line running under neath the radiator , low point of system and you can gravity feed to bucket.
Low pressure side will be squeeze clamps; factory crimps means high psi.

Flush IMO not really necessary. Additives wear out in the fluid like in tranny. Couple dump and fills fine, fluid pretty cheap.

Thanks for help. On my Santy the screen is in the middle of the reservoir and turkey basting only takes out max 8 oz. In the manual the capacity is listed 1 quart so i guess the easy way is just pull and replace. Solution to pollution is dilution right?
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Or unconnect hoses and flush reservoir with it off the car. Then reinstall afterwards.
So I disconnected the hose and flushed the entire thing with combo idemitsu and prestone power steering fluid for asian vehicles. I tried the turkey baster thing but again it only takes out about 1/8 of the total. And I didn't want to slow go with it to figure if this would solve or not. The flush replaced the entire thing. Unfortunately it didn't solve the whine.... =(
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Also for those who want to do power steering fluid exchange, on my 2012 3.5L (4) 12 oz bottles will pretty much clear the system (5) if you are OCD. Unload front wheels so you can turn the steering wheel lock to lock. I turkey basted what I could from reservoir. Disconnected the top hose, connected a barb with additional hose to catch bin (you will need a 5/8 barb I think, I had a 3/8 which was too small so I just hose clamped it tight). Plug the hole in the reservoir, I don't know the size but pretty much anything will do as it is not under pressure. I just shoved rubber in there. Fill reservoir with new fluid, turn steering wheel lock to lock back and forth. Continue to fill reservoir with new fluid as old fluid is evacuated. Repeat until fluid appears like new fluid. I think this method works well because you are not rushed and minimal air gets introduced. Re-assemble in reverse.

I used Idemitsu first basically cause it was cheap. Never heard of them prior but they seem legit. Then went through with Prestone for Asian Vehicles because it is full synthetic. Use whatever brand makes you happy.
 
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