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Discussion Starter #1
Hello, I have an Elantra GT 2013, 88 000Km, With automatic transmission and 5-speed gearbox manual "sports" mode. Never had problems with the car until now.
Transmission won't downshift, neither in auto mode nor in manual "sports" mode.
The car starts and shifts fine (1-2-3-4-5), then when slowing down and stopping at a red light, it stays on 5th gear. Thus, since I'm still on 5th gear, I need to floor it (push the gas pedal all the way down) for the car to advance. Sometimes the car just stalls when stopping at red lights (pretty normal being stuck on 5th gear). Then its very difficult to start it. I need to floor it again when turning the key for the car to start.
Sounds to me like an electronic issue.. Sensor, fuse, switch, solenoid, PCM/TCM, etc.. I don't know..

Any ideas what can cause that issue?
Thanks
 

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Hello, I have an Elantra GT 2013, 88 000Km, With automatic transmission and 5-speed gearbox manual "sports" mode. Never had problems with the car until now.
Transmission won't downshift, neither in auto mode nor in manual "sports" mode.
The car starts and shifts fine (1-2-3-4-5), then when slowing down and stopping at a red light, it stays on 5th gear. Thus, since I'm still on 5th gear, I need to floor it (push the gas pedal all the way down) for the car to advance. Sometimes the car just stalls when stopping at red lights (pretty normal being stuck on 5th gear). Then its very difficult to start it. I need to floor it again when turning the key for the car to start.
Sounds to me like an electronic issue.. Sensor, fuse, switch, solenoid, PCM/TCM, etc.. I don't know..

Any ideas what can cause that issue?
Thanks
Manually it will not go into lower gear? If you turn it off will it start in 1st and shift normally?
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Hey,

No even manually I'm not able to downshift. So if I stop at a red light, the car stays on 5th gear. I need to put it in "N"eutral, then put it back on "D"rive for the car to come back to 1st gear. Same when I turn off the car and start it again, it will be back on 1st gear.
I went to my mechanic today to get a read of what was going on, and we got the following codes: C1611, C1612, C1613.

So I don't know if it just needs a software update or there's really a faulty component or a short circuit...
But for some reason, the HECU is sending those 3 messages.
C1611 CAN Time-out ECM
C1612 CAN Time-out TCM
C1613 CAN Wrong Message
 

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Hey,

No even manually I'm not able to downshift. So if I stop at a red light, the car stays on 5th gear. I need to put it in "N"eutral, then put it back on "D"rive for the car to come back to 1st gear. Same when I turn off the car and start it again, it will be back on 1st gear.
I went to my mechanic today to get a read of what was going on, and we got the following codes: C1611, C1612, C1613.

So I don't know if it just needs a software update or there's really a faulty component or a short circuit...
But for some reason, the HECU is sending those 3 messages.
C1611 CAN Time-out ECM
C1612 CAN Time-out TCM
C1613 CAN Wrong Message
These are comm codes. The CAN network is not receiving messages between modules in the proper amount of time. The PCM sends a message to a module and it expects a reply within a specific time. If it don't get an answer within a specific time it'll set the timeout code. The problem is either in a module or in the CAN network bus line. I would use a good scanner and see if you can communicate with all the modules.

What did your mechanic say he could do? If he only reads codes you should look for a professional and let your mechanic do your brakes and other mechanics jobs.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Like you said he's just a basic mechanic, he's not a professional. And he looked like he had a decent scanner and didn't charge me for the diagnostic.
I wanted to have the codes to see if I could be lucky and fix the issue myself. A little too complicated for my knowledge..

I've booked an appointment tomorrow directly on my Hyundai dealership.

The car is just out of warranty, so I hope it doesn't cost me too much.
I'll post back to let you know.

Thanks for your help and replies by the way. Very appreciated.
 

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Like you said he's just a basic mechanic, he's not a professional. And he looked like he had a decent scanner and didn't charge me for the diagnostic.
I wanted to have the codes to see if I could be lucky and fix the issue myself. A little too complicated for my knowledge..

I've booked an appointment tomorrow directly on my Hyundai dealership.

The car is just out of warranty, so I hope it doesn't cost me too much.
I'll post back to let you know.

Thanks for your help and replies by the way. Very appreciated.
Hopefully it's an easy find and fix of the data line.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Ok well not as lucky as I wished..

According to their diagnostic, its the PCM ECM and here's a breakdown of the parts and pricing.

Diagnostics …….. $129.95

Labour(1hour) …. $129.95

PCM ………………… $1,294.80 (part # 39101-2EGB3)
_________
Sub total $1,554.70

Taxes ………………. $213.41

Grand Total …….. $1,768.11

I can get a used one on Ebay for approximately $150. Then the dealership will charge me $300 to install and re-program.

I called another dealership and his story is different.. According to him, I will also need to change the SMARTRA and make new keys if they install a used one.

I don't know which one to believe.
 

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Did this end up working? Just had this happen to me. Stopped at a red light from 5th gear, check engine came on, engine kind of knocked a bit, RPM to 0. Luckily I was able to get off to the side at a slow pace and some more stalling (as you described). I bought an OB2 reader from Amazon for 30 bucks and will see if the same codes come up. Going to buy used if that's the case because even if I have to get new keys it'll be insanely cheaper. I had a 2007 Elantra that lasted 150,000 miles with no issues other than what's expected. this 13 has been a nightmare at 60,000. AC doesn't work, engine knocks, random engine vibrates, now this. I can't wait to buy a Tesla.
 

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Did this end up working? Just had this happen to me. Stopped at a red light from 5th gear, check engine came on, engine kind of knocked a bit, RPM to 0. Luckily I was able to get off to the side at a slow pace and some more stalling (as you described). I bought an OB2 reader from Amazon for 30 bucks and will see if the same codes come up. Going to buy used if that's the case because even if I have to get new keys it'll be insanely cheaper. I had a 2007 Elantra that lasted 150,000 miles with no issues other than what's expected. this 13 has been a nightmare at 60,000. AC doesn't work, engine knocks, random engine vibrates, now this. I can't wait to buy a Tesla.
Having this same exact issue with my 2013 Elantra (115k). Never had any issues, is the PCM replacement the fix for this?
 

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For anyone else experiencing this issue... turns out it’s the crankshaft sensor (About $390, part and labor, at the dealership. This is also a good video about the same thing...

 
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