Hyundai Forums banner
1 - 20 of 20 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
So this happened a few hours ago:

I'm driving along, accelerating from about 35 to 40mph around the 2k range and I lose all power to the transmission. The engine didn't stall, but I put the pedal to the ground and got no response at all. Tachometer went from 2k rpm to Zero instantly. A few seconds later I regained power to the transmission, but the tachometer still read and stayed at zero. When coming to a stop the vehicle was shaking and had the traction control light on, but still maintained drivability. No check engine light appeared and it would stop shaking when it was above ~5 mph. I restarted the car 10 minutes later and everything was back to normal.

Additionally, I've had a separate issue with the tachometer bouncing around quite a bit, especially in the 2-3k range, often dropping from 3k to 2k and back without a change in gear or releasing of the gas pedal. The transmission doesn't appear to be slipping and I suspect this might be a result of some faulty sensors or control unit. Any thoughts?

(Sorry for the bad grammar, I'm running off about 4 hours of sleep)
- The intake manifold was replaced 2 months ago
 

·
Registered
Drives : Nissan NV200 Flies : Rans S6ES
Joined
·
16,953 Posts
Sounds like you might have had a failure of the cars data bus system preventing the various onboard computers from communicating with one another.

Have you tried scanning the engine PCM to see if there are any codes logged? Not all codes cause the CEL to illuminate, so it's still worth having it checked even although the light didn't come on. Data bus trouble codes are usually prefixed with 'U'.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I just tried to scan the car with an obd-2 scanner and it came up with an error trying to scan it. I don't know if it was an issue with the car, but I know for a fact that the scanner tool was working, as we used it on my buddies' car a few days ago.
 

·
Registered
Drives : Nissan NV200 Flies : Rans S6ES
Joined
·
16,953 Posts
That might be another symptom of the fault since the scan tool communicates with the engine PCM via the data bus. Having said that, I would have expected the scan tool to work if the rev counter, etc is working OK again.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Yeah, I'm not really sure what's up with it not scanning, I'm planning on buying my own OBD-2 scanner regardless, so I might try it with a new one. Is it possible that it's the Ignition failure sensor causing the tachometer to fail? I believe that is what controls the tachometer. Or it might be a combination of things. Any thoughts?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 · (Edited)
Sorry, I was thinking of the models up to 2006, What would you recommend as far as an Obd 2 scanner that could read the whole system? Or at least the essential codes that I might be looking for. I was considering the BlueDriver Bluetooth reader, but they don't have full support for Hyundai, mostly only American produced cars.

-Additionally, the CEL turned on Yesterday for the first time
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #9 ·
They don't have any compatibility for Hyundai, at least as far as all the features they offer. I was wondering what would be best in your experience as far as a obd2/scanner for my needs.
 

·
Registered
Drives : Nissan NV200 Flies : Rans S6ES
Joined
·
16,953 Posts
My experience is limited to the tool I personally own which is a Bosch KTS540, but at $4000+ it's quite an expensive bit of kit for DIY use. I think the Foxwell tool will probably do everything the Bosch tool does though, only it's limited to Hyundai/Kia cars.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Alright, I got the tool in today and here were the results:
- First off I got a code P0303 for a cylinder 3 misfire (History), I'm guessing that was what was causing the intense vibrations
- Second, a got a code C1 611 for lost communication with ECU (Active)
Would I need to replace the ECU? Or could it be something else within the system? I'm going to inspect my spark plugs next but I have a feeling that the ECU problem is somewhat related to the shaking and CEL, as both only occurred after my initial incident.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Could you point me in the direction of a guide or more information about the data bus, I wasn't able to find anything from a quick search. I saw that you can use a voltmeter to check the DTC port for abnormalities. But as far as checking grounds or wires I'm not sure where to look.
 

·
Registered
Drives : Nissan NV200 Flies : Rans S6ES
Joined
·
16,953 Posts
I've added a link to an article I found that gives you some tips on diagnosing CAN issues.

If you PM me your email address I can send you the Volkswagen technicians study guide on CAN networks.
It's pretty heavy reading but a great cure for insomnia :nerd:

CAN BUS fault finding tips & hints - part 1
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I checked the CAN and here are the voltages: 2.15V (CAN_L) 2.6V (CAN_H), I think those voltages are good, but as should appear clear, I'm no expert. I measured the rest of the pins using the signal ground in port 5, with varying voltages:

All using Signal Ground pin 5
Pin 1 - 11.7V
Pin 3 - 2.13V
Pin 9 - 10.04V
Pin 10 ---
Pin 11 - 2.6V
Pin 12 - Neg .09V
Pin 13 - 11.04V
Pin 14 - 11.05V
Pin 16 ---

I don't know if any of those voltages are relevant, but since I don't really know what I should be doing regardless I figured I would share them
 

·
Registered
Drives : Nissan NV200 Flies : Rans S6ES
Joined
·
16,953 Posts
Your CAN voltages certainly don't show any obvious problem although I must confess to never having measured the voltages with a voltmeter before.
Did you disconnect the battery and measure the resistance between the two CAN circuits, which should show 60 Ohms.

As for the other voltages you posted, what jumps out is no power supply on pin 16? Pin 16 on the OBD connector should be a constant 12V supply. Pins 4 & 5 should be grounds.

OBD connector viewed from terminal side.

 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Sorry for the late reply, yeah I'm consistently getting no power on pin 16. I'm still going through that guide, I just haven't had time to work on anything. I'm going to check every wiring ground on Friday, until then I'm not going to have any time to work on it. Let me know what you think about that power issue on pin 16.
 

·
Registered
Drives : Nissan NV200 Flies : Rans S6ES
Joined
·
16,953 Posts
Just make sure you are checking pin 16.

The connector pinout I attached above shows the correct pin locations looking into the front of the car's OBD connector.
Hyundai wiring diagrams often have show pin numbers back to front for some reason.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
11 Posts
Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Its been awhile, but I measured the resistance and the voltages again.

Can low was 2.27
Can high was 2.73
The resistance was 61.7 ohms between can high and low.

Not really sure where to go from here, it's just a loaner car so I haven't been putting to much time into it recently. Any ideas? Is it possible that I have a bad ground or short somewhere in the system? Blown fuses? Could something like that cause all of these issues? If you do think it's something to do with the grounds do you know of anywhere I could get a wiring diagram or at least something that shows where the wiring grounds are located?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1 Posts
I am having the exact same problem with my 2010 Santa Fe. Did you find a solution to the problem? Was it related to the Data Bus system?
 
1 - 20 of 20 Posts
Top