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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Ok ive got my wife a 2002 Santa Fe AWD 2.7L 4spd auto?? it drops to 4th when i go to manual and on most vehicles that would indicate that D is 5th but everything i read says its a 4spd. idk, anyway when i got this car for $100 the girl said it ran and drove to north dakota from California until the rear wheel bearing wen kaput. so i replaced that, then it had a bad vibration between 17mph and 35mph, found that 1 nut was missing off the center of the driveshaft and all the rest of the bolts were loose, so replaced the nut, tightened the rest up good, and now no vibrations or noise (that i can tell)

New issue: a few days ago it started this, you have to bring the RPMS up 200-300 over idle before the TC will engage and grab a gear, it does not matter which gear it is in, it does it in all of them. when its cold its acting like the TCC is sticking and it will sometimes stall the engine if i dont let it warm up a few minutes first. Shifts are very firm, no slipping once it is in any gear even if i floor it it holds just fine, sometimes the downshifts as im slowing down are" jerky" or it seems that its slamming the gears as its downshifting.

I noticed 3 days ago the fluid when up to temp was not really at the COLD mark, so i bought a quart and now when its up to temp the fluid is at the very very bottom edge of the HOT marks so it should be within operating range, however its actually been acting worse after i put that qt of fluid in, and yes i made sure it was SPII/ SPIII fluid.


Would the adaptive learning procedure/program be causing this? i just drove around for 2 hours in town and all sensors were putting out good data.


Also the TC stays engaged at idle until its all the way up to temp, its only after its warmed up that it needs a little more RPM to engage 1st or 2nd


Not sure if it matters but the VSS for the speedo is non functional right now so im using the Transmission output speed sensor for the speedo and it matches my GPS


Also if i am at a complete stop, and i go to WOT to get moving there is a lag, it does NOT sputter, but rather a delay of 1-2 seconds, then it will regain full power and take off like a bat out of ****. I was thinking MAF but it reads good on my data display..



I tried starting it with one sensor unplugged at a time and put it into gear and it stalls every single time no matter which sensor i had unplugged.(trying to narrow it down) even when all are plugged in it puts the engine load at 35% just in gear and the engine sounds like it wants to stall
 

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What does the fluid look like? Take a white napkin or paper towel and just drip the tip of the dipstick on it. Does the drip quickly wick or does it just stay there in a drop? Should wick quickly.


Change out the VSS. They aren't much and tcm does use that signal for correct shifting, TCC engagement, speedo and cruise.


Do a stall check once the fluid warms up. Put it in drive. press hard on the brake and push the accelerator slowly to full over about 3 seconds. RPMs should not go above 2900 rpms. Don't hold it like this for more than a few seconds. Then do the same in reverse. Results should be the same. This will at least tell you if the tranny is slipping.


If you are unsure of the maint. service of the tranny fluid, do a flush from the tranny cooler line(one on the left facing from the front) I use clear 5/16 tubing to do mine. It sounds like the valve body has some sticky valves. If your going to change the fluid run some sea foam trans tune in the fluid for about a 1-200 miles before you drain/flush it. It will help dissolve some of the varnish and deposits that could be in there from running old fluid. May help, may not. Good luck
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
What does the fluid look like? Take a white napkin or paper towel and just drip the tip of the dipstick on it. Does the drip quickly wick or does it just stay there in a drop? Should wick quickly.


Change out the VSS. They aren't much and tcm does use that signal for correct shifting, TCC engagement, speedo and cruise.


Do a stall check once the fluid warms up. Put it in drive. press hard on the brake and push the accelerator slowly to full over about 3 seconds. RPMs should not go above 2900 rpms. Don't hold it like this for more than a few seconds. Then do the same in reverse. Results should be the same. This will at least tell you if the tranny is slipping.


If you are unsure of the maint. service of the tranny fluid, do a flush from the tranny cooler line(one on the left facing from the front) I use clear 5/16 tubing to do mine. It sounds like the valve body has some sticky valves. If your going to change the fluid run some sea foam trans tune in the fluid for about a 1-200 miles before you drain/flush it. It will help dissolve some of the varnish and deposits that could be in there from running old fluid. May help, may not. Good luck

Fluid is clean, and bright red, does not smell burnt, i guess i should preface this whole thing with the fact I have 12+ years working and building my own vehicles and 5+ in auto,trans and truck shops over the last decade (i have back injuries that make it hard to keep steady work but i try anyway) i just never dealt with a hyundai transmission, pretty much everyhthing i worked on was the big 3, maybe a nissan, or toyota/honda and mod stock and stock cars, hence why im asking on here.


Ive done the stall check in 1st and 2nd it revs up to about 1200(ill double check that later) and holds, also same in reverse.

once the car is moving i can floor the accelerator, it will downshift and take off like a bat out of ****, its just when its stopped trying to engage the trans its not operating correctly.

The trans fluid kinda stays but it does drip off, ill check it again once its fully warmed up when i get my wife from work.

I plan to get a VSS or atleast pull it and see if im so lucky that the gear stripped and the sensor might be ok, the ECM is reading the speed fine its just the cruise and speedo that dont work.

I will try the seafoam and fluid flush first, cheapest option at this point, is it correct that these transmissons have a 15/16 drain plug? that would be amazing, all my big 3 cars and trucks i have to pull the pain to drain fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
See below thread and sbr711 comments. You may be in the market for a new one.


Probably not a bad idea to start with a fluid change to see if that at least helps.

What's your mileage at right now on the vehicle?

I read that thread and i dont have any of that persons symptoms: no grinding or clanking, no binding, it rolls freely, no high pitched winding, however since now i know it only holds a pint of fluid im gonna check it when im under there....

The odometer stopped moving when the VSS stopped around 338KM or 383Km (i think thats around 210-230000 miles??) im in the US but this is a canadian vehicle lol
 

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Drain plug is a 24MM. It sounds like it could be Torque converter related or pump cavitation/starvation from idle. Clogged filter maybe. Does your transmission have a spin on filter? Kind of reminds me of weak AC at idle till the revs come up and the ac gets colder from a weak compressor. The transmission in these are actually Mitsubishi transmissions. They are very durable when well maintained. I have a sportage with over 250K and a Sedona with over 200K on them that had a drain and fill ever 25K or so.


My current Santa Fe has a TCC issue with bleeding pressure from a leaky valve in the valve body. Everything else is good. The car had over 80K on the fluid when I got it and was pretty nasty. I have done 1 drain and fill and three flushes and hasn't fixed it yet. These transmission do not like long intervals between fluid changes. Very tight tolerances in the valve bodies. I figure a valve body change is in my future. These are easy to change and a rebuilt one can found for under $100 and be done on the car.


Your gripe looks like TC pressure related. IE not building pressure from idle. May need to tap the pressure and take some readings.
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Drain plug is a 24MM. It sounds like it could be Torque converter related or pump cavitation/starvation from idle. Clogged filter maybe. Does your transmission have a spin on filter? Kind of reminds me of weak AC at idle till the revs come up and the ac gets colder from a weak compressor. The transmission in these are actually Mitsubishi transmissions. They are very durable when well maintained. I have a sportage with over 250K and a Sedona with over 200K on them that had a drain and fill ever 25K or so.


My current Santa Fe has a TCC issue with bleeding pressure from a leaky valve in the valve body. Everything else is good. The car had over 80K on the fluid when I got it and was pretty nasty. I have done 1 drain and fill and three flushes and hasn't fixed it yet. These transmission do not like long intervals between fluid changes. Very tight tolerances in the valve bodies. I figure a valve body change is in my future. These are easy to change and a rebuilt one can found for under $100 and be done on the car.


Your gripe looks like TC pressure related. IE not building pressure from idle. May need to tap the pressure and take some readings.


isnt 24mm 15/16 in SAE? i cant remember off the top of my head, anywho, no i dont see any spin on filter, ill look again when it warms up outside, but i didnt see one the last 2 times i looked around, supposedly a lifetime non servicable filter from what i read online


all-trans. by/assets/site/files/ mitsubishi/F4A41.pdf is what im using for reference information, not sure if that link will show up or not,it says im too new to post links




Heres the kicker, when the fluid is col (read -20F up to about 50F above) the TC lockup seems to want to engage, meaning it drops the idle down to almost stalling around 400rpm or less sometimes, it only does this when cold, or it will pull down on the engine really hard then release and the engine will rev up to about 1100 then it will try to engage again, drop the RPM really low, release and repeat, it will do this until i put it in nuetral, park, or hold the accel and brake together to stabilize the engine speed.



once warmed up i have to bring the rpm above 800 before the TC catches, im not sure if the pump is weak or if its just crap fluid not being able to build pressure properly, or if by adding a quart of fresh fluid i knocked some gunk loose inside, its still not reading all the way full even after a 30 minute freeway drive at 80mph.its nice n warm but reads at the very bottom of the "hot" lines. it started the symptoms before i added the qt of fluid so it shouldnt be that, just really annoying. Shifts are hard/firm, and PCM downshifts are firm and quick as well, more than they should be, but if i try and downshift to slow down myself it used to be instant, now it takes a few seconds before it changes gears, but its not slipping, just delayed because when it grabs the next lower gear its a firm shift.


I had to overtake someone yesterday because they slammed on thier brakes on the freeway, so i floored it, it shifted from 4th to 2nd firm instantly, no slipping, and took off. so for now it seems my bands and clutchpacks are ok.


Obviously im going to try the simple drain and fill first and see if it helps at all, not sure how to get to the valve body yet as ive read online you have to pull the engine and trans on the AWD to get to the stamped pan and get it off.
 

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I can see mine(3.5) and it definitely looks as if you have to at least pull the fan and radiator out to get the pan off. The valve body is in there and just unbolts/unplugs. It will be a month or two before I make an attempt at this. Yeah my TCC dropping out and not holding is annoying. When it does hold, it hold hard and doesn't slip.
 

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3.5L 5spdAT pan removal

I can see mine(3.5) and it definitely looks as if you have to at least pull the fan and radiator out to get the pan off. The valve body is in there and just unbolts/unplugs. It will be a month or two before I make an attempt at this. Yeah my TCC dropping out and not holding is annoying. When it does hold, it hold hard and doesn't slip.
Just had my '03 3.5L AWD trans pan off last week. The lower radiator hose is in the way. Remove that and you have enough clearance to pull the pan and access the valve body. I replaced the solenoids, but it looks like I may have to do it again and try replacing the valve body from what I've read on here.
Filter is only accessible by removing and splitting the trans casing. :-(
Good luck!
 
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