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The service manual is not clear. Do you check the fluid level with the engine running or just at the proper temperature and turned off.
 

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The service manual is not clear. Do you check the fluid level with the engine running or just at the proper temperature and turned off.
It isn't clear?


Start the engine. (Don’t step on brake and accelerator simultaneously.

4. Confirm that the temperature of the A/T oil temperature sensor is 50~60°C(122~140°F) with the GDS.

5. Shift the select lever slowly from “P” to “D”, then “D” to “P” and repeat one more at idle.

Keep on each speed position more than 2 sec.

6. Lift the vehicle, then remove the oil level plug (A) from the valve body cover.

At this time, the vehicle must be at a level state.

7. If the oil flows out of the overflow plug in thin steady stream, the oil level is correct.
 

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Every automatic that I have had required that the engine be running to check the fluid level.
Also correct here! Up to temp, level, and running in P. (and look for the slight Pee stream...add fluid if necessary)

This is from our resident Master Tech:

"YF ATF level is set with engine at idle, in "P",, add till it dribble out the inspection hole.. close up the port and fill hole,, all done..

Get about 4 qt in it, and run shifter between P - R - N - D ,, and back,, with 5-10 hold in each position (foot on brake pedal)..

Not really rocket surgery to change ATF in them, just follow simple procedure." (used without permission)
 

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It isn't clear?


Start the engine. (Don’t step on brake and accelerator simultaneously.

4. Confirm that the temperature of the A/T oil temperature sensor is 50~60°C(122~140°F) with the GDS.

5. Shift the select lever slowly from “P” to “D”, then “D” to “P” and repeat one more at idle.

Keep on each speed position more than 2 sec.

6. Lift the vehicle, then remove the oil level plug (A) from the valve body cover.

At this time, the vehicle must be at a level state.

7. If the oil flows out of the overflow plug in thin steady stream, the oil level is correct.

This...do this.
 

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Also correct here! Up to temp, level, and running in P. (and look for the slight Pee stream...add fluid if necessary)

This is from our resident Master Tech:

"YF ATF level is set with engine at idle, in "P",, add till it dribble out the inspection hole.. close up the port and fill hole,, all done..

Get about 4 qt in it, and run shifter between P - R - N - D ,, and back,, with 5-10 hold in each position (foot on brake pedal)..

Not really rocket surgery to change ATF in them, just follow simple procedure." (used without permission)

HEHEHEHEEE,,, if it on the interwebs, it gots to be true..

Good evening to all
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
It isn't clear?


Start the engine. (Don’t step on brake and accelerator simultaneously.

4. Confirm that the temperature of the A/T oil temperature sensor is 50~60°C(122~140°F) with the GDS.

5. Shift the select lever slowly from “P” to “D”, then “D” to “P” and repeat one more at idle.

Keep on each speed position more than 2 sec.

6. Lift the vehicle, then remove the oil level plug (A) from the valve body cover.

At this time, the vehicle must be at a level state.

7. If the oil flows out of the overflow plug in thin steady stream, the oil level is correct.
No not really, it says start the engine but never says turn the engine off, so it has to be assumed that you turn the engine off at some point and that point could easily be right before you lift the car or it could be after you check the level or it could be after you lower the car or maybe you just leave the car on until you run out of gas. I feel much better when I know exactly what the procedure is.
 

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FWIW: Concerning the amount of fluid to add prior to the level test, add 6 quarts (US) after a drain out of the old ATF fluid.
 

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My YF took 4.6 quarts to start spilling out...that's a bit of difference!
 

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As indicated above; I didnt have that much required to add. How did you perform the process to get 6 quarts out of the system?

Back at 42K miles, I drained out and measured the original OEM fill at ~3.5quarts. BUT, the service manual says when doing the drain/fill to put just under 6 quarts (US) of OEM ATF back in and do the level test at a certain temperature range with the engine running/level and having put the transmission through all the gears first. That confirmed to me what I had been reading on the various forums that the factory fill was too low. At 71K miles, I did a drain and fill of the just under 6 quarts of OEM ATF twice with Amsoil OE ATF to get the freshest (highest percentage of new ATF) into the transmission (driving about 20-30 miles in between). I never had any problems with how the car drove so I think if you are in a range of say 4 to just under 6 quarts of ATF in the sump, you'd be fine. YMMV.
 

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Back at 42K miles, I drained out and measured the original OEM fill at ~3.5quarts. BUT, the service manual says when doing the drain/fill to put just under 6 quarts (US) of OEM ATF back in and do the level test at a certain temperature range with the engine running/level and having put the transmission through all the gears first. That confirmed to me what I had been reading on the various forums that the factory fill was too low. At 71K miles, I did a drain and fill of the just under 6 quarts of OEM ATF twice with Amsoil OE ATF to get the freshest (highest percentage of new ATF) into the transmission (driving about 20-30 miles in between). I never had any problems with how the car drove so I think if you are in a range of say 4 to just under 6 quarts of ATF in the sump, you'd be fine. YMMV.

Gotcha. I did mine about 25K after they replaced the transmission due to a cracked case (at shifter input point). I put in about 4.5 total before weeping happened.


I just did my Fusion (AMSOil FE ATF) and will be doing the Sonata this weekend. Not sure if Ill just do OEM or go Valvoline as I will be replacing the car in Spring/Summer next year which will be about the time Hyundai gets around to a fix for the SRS issue.
 
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