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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
2012 Elantra GLS. Wife comes home and says the TPMS (tire pressure monitoring system) light on the dash is lit. I check the tire pressure. None abnormally low but I decide to top them off. Notice that two of the valve stem caps are broken. The tips are broken off so I can see the little red gasket. On opposite sides of the car. No damage to the wheel covers. The valve stems don't stick out past the wheel covers so I wonder how the caps could have gotten broken.

Could that be why the TPS system is giving me a warning? If by chance there was a pressure issue does the light reset itself or does the dealer have to do it?
 

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There was a TSB on broken TPMS sensors. Usually occurred when the wrong style air gauge was used to check the tire pressures. Hyundai recommended a dial gauge, instead of those long commercial styles. Has anyone else checked the pressures at a filing station or garage?

If you're using one of the pencil style air gauges, be careful trying to get in there and seat it firmly on the valve body. One bad angle is all it takes, evidently.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
There was a TSB on broken TPMS sensors. Usually occurred when the wrong style air gauge was used to check the tire pressures. Hyundai recommended a dial gauge, instead of those long commercial styles. Has anyone else checked the pressures at a filing station or garage?

If you're using one of the pencil style air gauges, be careful trying to get in there and seat it firmly on the valve body. One bad angle is all it takes, evidently.
I can't even remember the last time I checked the pressure but when I did I used the pencil type. So if it broke it it took a long time for the light to register.

Kind of sad that they would be that sensitive. Is there a way for me or the dealer to just reset/shut the light off? I'm not going to pay to replace any sensor(s). Although I think I may be forced to as its part of the safety system.
 

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Wow, I never new this. I use a plastic digital gauge and haven't had any problems. The light should go out itself when all TPMS sensors indicate at least min pressure. It could be you have a damaged sensor and it's not transmitting.
 

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I've had my light go off in cold days a few times, I put a little air in reset your car and light goes off by it self, you do not need to go to the dealer to reset that light.
 

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There was a TSB on broken TPMS sensors. Usually occurred when the wrong style air gauge was used to check the tire pressures. Hyundai recommended a dial gauge, instead of those long commercial styles. Has anyone else checked the pressures at a filing station or garage?

If you're using one of the pencil style air gauges, be careful trying to get in there and seat it firmly on the valve body. One bad angle is all it takes, evidently.
I read somewhere that you shouldn't use metal caps only plastic. Something about the cap and stem bonding together?
 

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The horseshoe light coming on solid from startup indicates low pressure. If there is a fault in the system, it will blink for one minute or so and then go solid. And you're giving the system way too much credit. There's no way it can tell that the stem caps are missing and/or broken as it just measures pressure on the inside.

After adding air it takes about five minutes of driving to reset the light. No dealer visit required. :)
 

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I read somewhere that you shouldn't use metal caps only plastic. Something about the cap and stem bonding together?
Yep, had it happen once. Had to use vice grips to hold stems while using another pair to turn caps.

BTW, no TPMS on my 2013 Limited E in Canada.
 

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Yep, had it happen once. Had to use vice grips to hold stems while using another pair to turn caps.

BTW, no TPMS on my 2013 Limited E in Canada.
But you DID get a spare tire in the deal. And a jack, and all the other associated stuff that came with it. Some of us here in the States are a bit, how do you say, envious?

Took another gander at that TPMS TSB. It shows a much heavier duty tire gauge than those lightweight pencil types. So, everyone should be fine using those. I still prefer a dial gauge over those types for greater accuracy, however. At $6-8, it's cheap insurance against a $BIG tire investment and those new tires wearing prematurely due to incorrect air pressures. I also have the digital type to monitor the other for consistency and vice versa. (Its an OCD thing.) I like the electronic one because it reads out that 1/2 pound of pressure a lot faster than this old man can guess if the needle's between the 34 and 35 PSI mark. I can read it, I'm just lazy. A privilege of aging, I suppose. LOL
 

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Do NOT, i repeat Do NOT use valve caps other than plastic or aluminum, even if you use aluminum a very light touch of antiseize is advised.

Why hyundai chose to use aluminum stems is beyond me as many other O.E.M's have gone away from them to the rubber style but bad things happen when the wrong caps are installed OR when cheap valve cores are inserted into the stems during tire changes.

And yes after a few years they get brittle and will break off when doing normal air pressure checks.

There are bands (super long pipe clamps) that can be installed around the drop of the wheel and the sensors relocated to those positions and a normal (cheap/readily available) valve stem can be installed into the wheel hole.
 

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Do NOT, i repeat Do NOT use valve caps other than plastic or aluminum, even if you use aluminum a very light touch of antiseize is advised.

Why hyundai chose to use aluminum stems is beyond me as many other O.E.M's have gone away from them to the rubber style but bad things happen when the wrong caps are installed OR when cheap valve cores are inserted into the stems during tire changes.

And yes after a few years they get brittle and will break off when doing normal air pressure checks.

There are bands (super long pipe clamps) that can be installed around the drop of the wheel and the sensors relocated to those positions and a normal (cheap/readily available) valve stem can be installed into the wheel hole.
These are the caps I purchased
Steam Air Valve Tire Tyre Caps Set for Hyundai White Chrome Wrench Key Chain | eBay
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
It's been cold but not excessive. None of the four tires was abnormally low so not sure why it would throw a warning. I did top them off and drove the car for more than five minutes including shutting off/restarting at least twice and the light still was lit. Today (two days later) my wife said the light is off. So apparently it took a bit longer than "five minutes" to reset.

Scheduled a dealer visit while the light was on. I'll still keep it since there are some other things they need to do. Maybe I'll have them look in to it. At the very least hopefully they can give me some new valve caps. Never seen any break like this in 30+ years. The top broke off while still on the tire, you could see right through to the valve. These are OEM, green with a red rubber washer inside.
 

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Do NOT, i repeat Do NOT use valve caps other than plastic or aluminum, even if you use aluminum a very light touch of antiseize is advised.

Why hyundai chose to use aluminum stems is beyond me as many other O.E.M's have gone away from them to the rubber style but bad things happen when the wrong caps are installed OR when cheap valve cores are inserted into the stems during tire changes.

And yes after a few years they get brittle and will break off when doing normal air pressure checks.

There are bands (super long pipe clamps) that can be installed around the drop of the wheel and the sensors relocated to those positions and a normal (cheap/readily available) valve stem can be installed into the wheel hole.
I found this article, which backs up your post
Achey Breakey Parts: TPMS And Corrosion
 

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I've been using those Slime aluminum valve caps - they have a plastic insert so there's no issue. Cheap too, can pick them up at any Walmart around here for a few bucks. Plus the plain aluminum colored ones are easy to spray paint in my car color.
 

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I have the same caps, swordmaster. Liked the novelty or them and used them on both my 2011 and now on Ingrid. I don't tighten them with the wrench. Finger-tightened, only. But this thread has given me cause to sit back and consider if I'm doing the right thing by those TPMS sensors. I suppose I could go with something else although I'm not crazy about the idea.

I'm wondering if a small dab of white lithium grease, applied with a Q-tip inside the cap threads, would alleviate potential problems of them seizing on the stem?
 

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Valve stems and caps is not a TPMS monitered item if I read the concern in the first couple post correct..

TPMS module looking for sensor signal transmitting data such as tire air temp, tire pressure, sensor ID number to verify it is a sensor we should be accepting info from,, not the car beside me driving down the road.

Feel free to use metal caps, BUT you need to do a littl eup keep on your end.. use a tiny bit of water resistant lube on the threads, finger tight, take them off and on once in a while to keep them from starting to stick.. They told us at training to just remove the metal caps and install the cheap plastic caps as days gone by.

If the OE metal caps stuck, dont try to "grip" them off.. may twist the top of stem off.. I have used die grinder with burr to nibble through side of cap to release hold, then spin cap off with addition of PB Blaster to wet the threads/corrosion

Warning lamp typically takes a little bit of drive before module see transmission of timed RF signal to get info and turn off lamp,, it not a simple put air in and off goes light when pressure there..

Also take car when inflating tires, keep chuck straight to stem, do not get sideways with chuck and break top off stem

 

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My fiance's winter wheels took 20miles for the TPMS system to register that there were no sensors on the car lol lol

Just use some anti seize and don't tighten it with the wrench and you should be ok, chrome is a corrosive resistant coating normally, even the cheap plated stuff.
 
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