Hyundai Forums banner

1 - 6 of 6 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
3 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
I have a 2004 Elantra GT 5 spd. I've had it for about a year and a half now and its issues are starting to come up. :/

First the rear right piston was leaking so that got replaced. The rear left piston looks like it seized. Looks wet and the piston doesn't move out after applying the brakes - the pads were perfect on one side of the car and completely worn out on the other so there is significant brake bias. Slide pin was also stuck so I just got a new caliper and have the bracket on so far and just need to swap the caliper when I can bleed the brakes. So two rear calipers replaced.

Today was repairing the exhaust leak from jacking up the car and doing the rear right caliper. Part of the flex pipe rusted off from the flange. Something got torqued the wrong way I guess and hopefully the high-temp muffler paste I just put on will work next time I start it.

I've got what appears to be a broken axle too. That I should have seen coming. It was probably like that before I bought the car. I took it up to like 50 mph and fine, but once I bought it and hit 65 mph on a full speed highway the steering wheel vibrates. I thought it was a wheel bearing but it's more likely the axle seeing it's wet, I think? What is that fluid too? Not tranny fluid since it's manual, not engine oil right? Is it just gear oil - where do I top it off? What is the thing that's leaking called too...closest I could find in manuals is a spindle. I'm wondering what the complete unit I'm looking at is though - ball joint, CV joint, ???

I have some photos I took while I was under the car because this rust is disturbing me. I've never seen so much rust on a car of this age. Looks like the rear fender is rusting - turns out it was already filled in with body filler. Even worse is the rust has spread halfway down the rear driver's side door along the pinch lip on the bottom. It's bubbly where there is a paint/coating and at the end closest to the rear fender you can put your finger through it. It's all flaky rust, no metal to grind down to. :eek: I saw some other rust spots when I was putting the muffler paste in so I took some pictures because they were pretty solid pieces of metal and I don't know if the structural integrity of the car is being compromised.

The first photo is the top of my crankcase (right?) where you put the oil in. It looks really gunked up...or is that normal? The second two are of the inner part of the driver's side axle where it mounts to the transmission. The last 5 are underbody rust...oh, and is that an acceptable jack point (I already punched through the pinch lip once with a scissor jack so I'm hoping this spot would cause less damage and still support the car safely).

Is there a way to tell if there had been water-damage from a flood (this seems like far too much rust for a car of this age)? Is the car safe to drive? Is there anything I can do about the rust at this point? Should I just try to sell it to a dealership before more paint comes off and exposes more rust (I did just replace the rear calipers, the axle is broken, and the oil is always ridiculously dirty like the previous owner rarely changed it)?

Thank you for looking. I appreciate your opinion. :)
 

Attachments

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,173 Posts
Pull back carpeting in the trunk and look for rust or mold and mildew. This is a area that flood damage can be concealed.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
998 Posts
engine gunk - normal with them. I guess that could be a result of poor maintenance. Mine had it too. I poped the cover (2004, GLS, manual, 65k miles) and found that only some little of it (gunk) was on the head. Under the cap is a cold place so most of the stuff will stay there. Put Pennzoil synth to clean it from the engine.

Hard to say why the boot is wet. Could be gear oil. If so, there are two plugs - one fill/control plug and drain plug.

Rust - a little much, BUT what do you expect from a car driven in MA? Winter, salt, sand, water... I do not like the crack (if I see correctly) next to I think fuel line see quoted picture.
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/attac...3-too-much-rust-repairs-even-worth-frame1.jpg

Shaking? I would start with tires/wheels. Balance them. Then ball joints and tie rod ends. Even shock absorbers. All of them can create issues.

Rear brakes - they have tendency to excessive rust and dust accumulation. All Hyundais and KIAs suffer from it. Clean the slides every two years. Change brake fluid every 5 years.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
179 Posts
Unless the previous owner took meticulous care of it, you can't really expect much from a 10 year old car especially in the North-East. If you have already driven it for a year and a half, count your blessings.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,151 Posts
ha that rust is nothing! come take a look at my 2004 accent and you'll feel better :p

as for undercoating, yes i would. even though rust has already started it will slow down the rust. if you own a large compressor (18 gal give or take) i would suggest getting the oil gun and spraying it yourself. its very easy and inexpensive. i do mine on my lawn due to the oil mist splashing back...tends to get into the asphalt on my driveway.

that oil on the driveshaft is interesting...to find it start at the top and work your way down. consider where oil can leak and find the highest point where there is signs of oil on the engine. you'll probably find the leak there :) this could be as simple as the cam cover bolts are loose and oil is leaking down the side of the engine. may be a cam seal in the head, and even more likely would be one of the oil seals on the transaxle (where the pic was taken, seals driveshaft into transaxle) is going. good news is they are pretty easy to replace. CV boot also looks good from the pics.

also PLP is correct, check your fill and drain plug on the trans to see if they are loose. confirming if its gear oil should be easy. get some on your fingers and give it a sniff. gear oil has an...interesting...smell. personally i think it smells like vomit and can't stand the stuff. if this is the case, you need to check your trans oil level!

doing so is easy. on LEVEL ground remove the fill plug on the trans. stick your finger in the hole. feel oil? good you're fine.
 

·
Banned
Joined
·
998 Posts
just a thought - get a brake cleaner, spray all oil down to clean the surface and leave the car overnight. The best way to do that is after driving when the tranny is still warm.
If it drips you will see where it is coming from. Plus then when driving - everyday check to see where the most of it comes out.
 
1 - 6 of 6 Posts
Top