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Jeez, another relay. How many relays in total did you use to make these two lamps work?
I don't understand why the relay inside the flasher unit couldn't light an LED bulb. Something strange going on there.
 

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Discussion Starter #662
For relay optocoupler...

Since, connecting directly the orange light to the turn signal circuit only very very limitedly lights the orange light, the thought came that there's very less amount of current passing through it.

Reason to use optocoupler relay is that whenever turn signal is input to the high trigger pin, a very small amount of current flows to the optocoupler which in turn activates the 12 v relay.
 

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Discussion Starter #663 (Edited)
Jeez, another relay. How many relays in total did you use to make these two lamps work?
I don't understand why the relay inside the flasher unit couldn't light an LED bulb. Something strange going on there.
1 relay for each turn signal circuit.
Total 2 relays.

Sample of the headlamps coupler attached herewith. Total 8 wires..4 wires X 2 rows
 

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Since, connecting directly the orange light to the turn signal circuit only very very limitedly lights the orange light, the thought came that there's very less amount of current passing through it.
But why does the turn signal circuit only very very limitedly lights the orange light?
If the car's turn signal relay can supply enough current to illuminate an incandescent bulb it must be capable of illuminating an LED, which will have a much lower current draw.
 

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Discussion Starter #667
But why does the turn signal circuit only very very limitedly lights the orange light?...
Checked the voltage drop with one end of multimeter joined to the turn signal circuit and other end to negative terminal of battery, now, activated the turn signal, yes, MAXIMUM VOLTAGE READING IS 9 V!!!!!!

Is this low voltage 9 V, the likely cause of the LEDs unable to light up ? percent as expected??

Also, since the running engine generates over approx. Max. 14 v DC and the LED strips are just for 12 v DC, do I need any extra voltage regulator or adapter to output to exact 12 v dc as required by the LEDs??

Any adapter required to extend the life time of the LEDs??

Thanks.
 

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I have tried another led which is of only white colour, but same outcome...
No surprise there then.

Is this low voltage 9 V, the likely cause of the LEDs unable to light up ? percent as expected??
Are you sure the voltage is 9V, or is you meter maybe just not fast enough to measure the turn signal voltage pulses.
If you connect the meter right at the car's turn signal bulb do you get 12V there?

Voltage drop is directly proportional to current flow. And you said earlier that your yellow LED lamp had a current draw of only 50mA, so there is very little current flowing in this circuit which means there should be very little voltage drop. If you really are seeing a 3V drop in this circuit there is something very, very wrong with your wiring.

Also, since the running engine generates over approx. Max. 14 v DC and the LED strips are just for 12 v DC, do I need any extra voltage regulator or adapter to output to exact 12 v dc as required by the LEDs??
I'm sure the guy who designed the circuity for the LED lamps would know a cars electrical system normally operates at 14V and would have designed the circuit with that in mind. So I don't think there will be any need for you to add further voltage regulation.
 

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Discussion Starter #669
Connecting one end of multimeter to the turn signal circuit and other end of multimeter to negative of battery, it still gives max 9 V ...
 

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Discussion Starter #670 (Edited)
It's not 3 v drop on the yellow light...

It's 9 V drop which maybe the cause of the yellow light not turning up at all....

I suppose the led is connected in parallel with the turn signal circuit which means voltage drops is always 12 v, only current will varies.

And, since the yellow lights up completely only when engine is running, that implies there's 12 v drop on the led strip. But, when engine off, 9 V drop on the led!!!!

And, with all the modified LEDs wiring disconnected, there's still same voltage drops 9v when tested with multimeter which acts as a load.
 

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Connecting one end of multimeter to the turn signal circuit and other end of multimeter to negative of battery, it still gives max 9 V ...
To me that sounds like your meter refresh rate is too slow to capture the true voltage.

Thang Tons said:
And, with all the modified LEDs wiring disconnected, there's still same voltage drops 9v when tested with multimeter which acts as a load.
And this seems to confirm that's the case. A voltmeter by design doesn't load the circuit under test. And like I said, if there is no current flow there can be no voltage drop.
 

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Discussion Starter #673
This morning, the following tests were conducted....

1. Turn signal bulb is detached. Positive end of yellow light is joined to positive terminal of the bulb holder and negative of yellow light to ground.

Turn signal activated, and yes the led glows perfectly. Same procedure is conducted at the input signal of the headlamps coupler with still bulb detached, yes same results it glows perfectly.

2. Now, as soon as the bulb is reconnected, the yellow light is very dimmed as was earlier case, which is also again tested at the input signal of the headlamps coupler.

Main issue is ....when the bulb and led are connected simultaneously, only the led brightness is very low about 2 percent glow only!!!

It's like the bulb and led are connected in series.....!!!!
What would be the next step???????
 

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It's like the bulb and led are connected in series.....!!!!
No, it's the opposite of that.
When an incandescent bulb is connected in series with an LED it's the LED that will be bright and the incandescent will be dim or completely off.

Thang Tons said:
What would be the next step???????
Well, you've tried moving the power supply side of the lamp. What about the ground side.
Where is the yellow lamp's ground connected? Is it connected directly to the car body, or is it connected to one of the other wires on the headlamp's coupler?

Thang Tons said:
sometimes when the turn signal is activated and deactivated, I can hear some WHINNING sounds from the headlamp assembly. This WHINNING sounds corresponds to the height of the headlights adjuster
Could the ground for the yellow light perhaps have been connected to the headlamp adjuster signal wire by mistake, which would probably explain this whining sound.
 

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Discussion Starter #675 (Edited)
Well, you've tried moving the power supply side of the lamp. What about the ground side.
Where is the yellow lamp's ground connected? Is it connected directly to the car body, or is it connected to one of the other wires on the headlamp's coupler?


Could the ground for the yellow light perhaps have been connected to the headlamp adjuster signal wire by mistake, which would probably explain this whining sound.
The ground side of yellow light is directly connected to the car body, and not to the negative side of the headlamps main coupler nor the negative side of the turn signal coupler.

All are directly connected to car body whenever any tests were performed.
 

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Oh well, I'll just have to admit defeat on this one?
I've no idea why your yellow LED is dim and I can't seem to figure it out from 4,000 miles away. Just go back to using the relay and move on to the next headache...I mean project:p
 

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Discussion Starter #677
It's ok...it's not defeat...it's sharing information one another...?

I have always learn new things from your help and suggestions to recollect current basics fundamentals learned at high school....

Actually, I was expecting to get the same 12 v from the turn signal circuit, but unfortunately, when the led come very much dimmed, all my hope turn to the extra RELAY.

Really confused why led is dimmed when both the turn signal bulb and led are connected simultaneously!!!!

But, I had not take out the side repeater bulb and performed any tests though!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #678
And, how about using IRFZ144 MOSFET or alike which will act as a SWITCH instead of the said RELAY to lights up the WHITE LIGHT since the voltage coming out of the turn signal circuit is only about 9 V.

And this 9 V would eventually closed the switch and lights up the WHITE LIGHT....
 

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And, how about using IRFZ144 MOSFET or alike which will act as a SWITCH instead of the said RELAY to lights up the WHITE LIGHT
I don't see why you couldn't replace the relay with a FET. I think you'd want a 'P' channel FET for a power sided switched application. I can't seem to find any info for the particular device you mentioned.
 
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