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Discussion Starter #601
Okok...😇😇😇😇

Actually, the car i20 headlights brightness or throw light intensity is not satisfactory as compared to MARUTI CELERIO, DATSUN GO PLUS AND RENAULT KWID!!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #602
Now, I really need your wise suggestions to any alternative bulbs, other than LEDs which requires external relays, to replace the OEM bulbs to achieve more whiter light and more brightness especially during rains on night time??
 

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Discussion Starter #603
Some new achievements with the help of Autospark...😇😇😇

Really grateful to him..... thanks so much....
444413

Interior lights and front drl.......
 

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Discussion Starter #605
Sad news this morning....

Locking and unlocking from the remote key does not work.....

1. The indicator light of the fob key come on whenever I pressed lock, unlock. This is ok as per the indicator. But, the car does not lock or unlock by remote. It seems signal is not received by the locking module.

Also, I replaced the cell battery but still, same issues, no lock and unlocking.

2. Now, I test for the remote unit module whether there's power going in or not. I pressed the learning button switch, and yes, the relay click which confirms that there is voltage in the remote module.

However, with still pressing the relearn button, I pressed the lock or unlock button on the fob key, but still no good results.

3. How to test and fix any transmitter or receiver on a remote locking module which is not working?
 

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How to test and fix any transmitter or receiver on a remote locking module which is not working?
Sorry, I don't know anything about the electronic magic that happens inside the box, so other than making sure the module has a good power supply and ground I don't know how to test or fix it. I've fitted a few of those cheap remote locking modules and to date I've never had one fail. If one of mine did fail though I'd just replace the box. I wouldn't even bother trying to repair something that is so cheap to replace.
 

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Discussion Starter #607
Just information to note...
Sometimes remote lock and unlock works..... here's how...

When the lock and unlock function are operated by remote, all working. And I waited for long time, and repeat the same 2 functions, yes still all ok.

Now, repeat lock and unlock function, all ok. Then, I cut the power supply to the RECEIVER module unit, and again reconnect to the same 12 v source.

At this stage, the lock and unlock function does not work anymore!!!! It's working only intermittently!!!!😌😌😌
 

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Then, I cut the power supply to the RECEIVER module unit, and again reconnect to the same 12 v source.

At this stage, the lock and unlock function does not work anymore!!!
Just don't cut the power supply then and it will always work :)
 

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Discussion Starter #609
Haha.....

Cutting power supply means.... whenever any door is open or when the key is inserted at the ignition lock....so that remote unit will not get power, that's how we wired the time it was installed....
 

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Cutting power supply means.... whenever any door is open or when the key is inserted at the ignition lock....so that remote unit will not get power, that's how we wired the time it was installed....
This thread has been running that long I can't remember what we did at the time it was installed. Do you know what post in the thread we were discussing this?

This shouldn't be too difficult to diagnose. The module needs a 12V supply and ground for it to work, so one or the other is missing when it wont work. Connect your voltmeter to each and see which one is missing when it fails to respond to the remote signal.

Did we fit a relay into the power supply to open/break the circuit when a door is opened or the ignition is on? If so, I suspect something is preventing your relay from closing. A faulty door pin switch seems the most likely suspect.
 

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Discussion Starter #611
Took out the remote control unit from the car, and I retest the remote locking system independently by testing from a 12 v DC adapter external source power 220 v AC home.

Yes, same problems. Sometimes, it receives and sometimes not!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #612
Connect one end of voltmeter to the end of antenna wire, and another terminal of voltmeter to ground.

As I lock from remote, it shows resistance increase to 32 ohms from idle 20 approx ohms whenever signals are received. That means, it shows resistance value changes whenever signals are received.

At idle, it's about 20 ohms.....
 

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Took out the remote control unit from the car, and I retest the remote locking system independently by testing from a 12 v DC adapter external source power 220 v AC home.

Yes, same problems. Sometimes, it receives and sometimes not!!!!
There can't be anything wrong with the wiring on the car then, meaning the problem has to be inside the module.
 

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Just a thought...I assume you have tested the module using both remotes, just in case one of the remotes intermittently is not transmitting a signal?
 

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Discussion Starter #615
Both of the fob keys....seems sends signal since the led glows when buttons are pressed....

However, I don't know whether the RECEIVER unit receive signals or not
 

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The light just tells you the switch/button is working. It doesn't necessarily mean a signal is being transmitted. It's unlikely both would develop the same fault though, so f the fault is happening with both remotes it really has to be the module.
 

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Discussion Starter #617
This morning I tried the locks and unlock functions......after leaving for over 7 hrs last night....

It doesn't work.........
 

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Discussion Starter #618
New project...

A cob led strip of 2 colours, white and yellow. Sample of cob is attached herewith.

1.whenever the fog light switch which is installed manually is closed, the white colour should turn on. This has been successfully achieved.

2. When any turn signals are activated, the yellow colour should be on in accordance with the turn signals, and the white colour be off. And, again the white colour be on again as soon as the turn signals are off, provided that the fog light switch was on before.

Awaiting for the simplest circuit diagram...😇
 

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Awaiting for the simplest circuit diagram...😇
What your asking for here is what is often called a switch back lamp. I think the circuit for this one will be a bit more complicated than what you've done before. But why reinvent the wheel when you can just buy a ready made switch back lamp on ebay/amazon. They aren't that expensive.
 

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Here is a circuit that I think should work for you...
444853


The white DRL lamps connect to your switch via the normally closed contacts of a 5 terminal relay. The lamps will illuminate as normal when you press the dashboard switch.

Your orange turn signal lamps just connect to the wiring for the original turn signal lamps. You'll probably need load resistors in parallel with the LEDs to prevent hyper flash, or you could maybe modify the flasher relay like I've shown IN THIS THREAD.

To make the white lamps switch off when the turn signal is switched on you splice a wire onto the turn signal power supply and connect it to the circuit at the "turn signal input" connection. When the turn signal is switched on voltage is applied to the base of the transistor via the input diode and 1k resistor. That will turn the transistor on which in turn energises the relay. When the relay is energised it's switch changes to the normally open contact, which will switch the white DRL lamp off. When the turn signal turns off the RC timing circuit, made up of the 5k resistor and 470uF capacitor, will hold the relay on for a few seconds. If the turn signal turns on again within that few second period the timer is reset and the relay is held on. If the turn signal input doesn't go live again the timer will time out and the relay will switch off, turning the white DRLs back on again.

You'll need two of these circuits, one for each turn signal/DRL pair. The circuit should easily fit on a little strip board (vero board) and you could use small circuit board mounted relays rather than full sized automotive types, so the complete circuit would be contained on the one board.
 
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