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Discussion Starter #581
Still engine vibration at idle...

After checking all resistance values of each primary and secondary circuits on the 2 coil packs which are all ok and same, and having changed the plug 4 HT cable, still engine vibration.

One thing I noticed is that the amount of spark coming out from high terminal plug 4 on coil pack 1 is the same as the case when old HT cable 4 was used.

Now, why such less spark is produced on this high output terminal 4 within the same coil pack which controls plug cable 1 and 4?? A much stronger spark is coming out from high terminal 1.

Second circuit being controlled by the same circuit by 2 wires connector on the coil pack and why one is showing less spark!!!
 

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Now, why such less spark is produced on this high output terminal 4 within the same coil pack which controls plug cable 1 and 4?? A much stronger spark is coming out from high terminal 1
Maybe the coil is faulty.
Have you tried swapping the two coils around to see if the fault then migrates to cylinder 2? If it does that would seem to confirm that the fault is within the coil itself.
 

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Discussion Starter #583
Maybe the coil is faulty.
Have you tried swapping the two coils around to see if the fault then migrates to cylinder 2? If it does that would seem to confirm that the fault is within the coil itself.
I'll check for that later....

But what would cause less spark in one output terminal within the same coil controlled by primary circuit??? Curious to know??.. also, All primary and secondary circuits have passed resistance tests......as well.....
 

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But what would cause less spark in one output terminal within the same coil controlled by primary circuit??? Curious to know??
I've no idea, and since you can't repair it anyway, who cares.

Thang Tons said:
All primary and secondary circuits have passed resistance tests.
Yeah, an Ohmmeter test. Ohmmeters test the circuit with no load applied. It's not unheard of for a circuit to pass an Ohmmeter test but still suffer from excessive voltage drop (caused by high resistance) when the circuit is operating under load.
 

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Discussion Starter #585
Meanwhile, about the pcv valve...

I have gone through several videos and found such one video. I opened the oil cap and I can feel gas pressure on my hands while engine running.

Is this serious blowby or symptoms of piston rings damaged???

Please kindly refer to link below for blowby...

Blowby
 

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Is this serious blowby or symptoms of piston rings damaged???
I think you'd really need to do a cylinder leak down test to know if there is excessive blowby. I don't think putting your hand over the oil filler opening is really a valid test. Maybe a mechanic will chime in and tell us.

Thang Tons said:
Please kindly refer to link below for blowby...
Did you read the comments below that video?
 

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Discussion Starter #587
New 4 spark plug just installed.... still then, no signs of rpm coming back to 850 from 620!!!!

The following has been done until now...
Iscv cleaned, TB unit cleaned, HT cable no.4 replaced, air filter replaced, ignition coil pack has same readings which are well within specs, each 4 injectors pin has same readings too and well within specs....

Old plug and new plug..
440965
 

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Discussion Starter #588
Updates on the low rpm.....

Here's data captured on OBD2 adapter.....

What's that O2 in red colour?? Is that value relating to the low RPM?? If not, what's the cause of that value outside the limit data reading??

Thanks.
 

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What's that O2 in red colour??
We'll need one of our American friends to answer that. OBD monitors are an American thing used to test the engines emissions. We don't use them here in the UK, so I don't know a great deal about them. I've no idea what test $31 is looking at.

Thang Tons said:
Is that value relating to the low RPM??
As I said, I have no idea what that value is so I can't be 100% sure. I doubt low idle speed would be caused by an O2 sensor issue though. It's more likely the O2 monitor is off because of the low idle speed. In other works the low idle speed is causing the red colour, not the other way round.
 

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Discussion Starter #590
Another updates regarding low rpm at idle....650 rpm....

Checked the 2 of 3 wires of the tps connector with multimeter and key at ON position....

One wire shows .30 volt.
Another wire shows 5 volt.
Are those readings normal?? Any correlation to solve the low rpm with these readings?
 

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Are those readings normal??
5V sounds good. Not sure about the 0.3V.

With the sensor connected the ground wire (usually black) should show 0V, the power supply wire should show 5V, and the signal wire should show a voltage somewhere between 0 & 5V. What the signal voltage is depends on the position of the throttle valve. When the valve is fully closed the signal voltage should be approx 0.5V. When the valve is fully open the signal voltage should be approx 4.5V.
 

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Discussion Starter #592
If I maintain to .5 volt from .3 volt, will the rpm comes to 800? Any effects on the car engine, mileage etc...?

How rpm and TPS correlated??
 

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If I maintain to .5 volt from .3 volt, will the rpm comes to 800?
I doubt it.
But why not try loosening the sensor securing screws to see if the sensor can rotate a little. If so, rotate it while monitoring the voltage and when you get 0.5V tighten the screws, then run the engine and see what happens.
 

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Discussion Starter #594
Adjusted to .45 volt maximum, min is .3 v and max .45 v, and yes the rpm do comes to around 800 as expected after reaching the normal temperature!!!

However, there is somewhat like blueish color coming out of the exhaust end pipe which was not before!!! Is this blueish color normal??? What does it indicates??
 

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Discussion Starter #597 (Edited)
Let's forget about the low rpm.....

The headlights are very dim.....not very bright....

So, I replaced both with complete OEM new headlamps and OEM new bulbs. However, no such improvement in brightness especially during rains!!!! Same brightness with old bulbs and old headlamps!!!

Checking the coupler 3 pins of the H4 HALOGEN BULB 60/55w gives the following results.....

1. With key at ON, each 3 pins, black, green and yellow, of the coupler shows 12.6 Vol. (I was thinking black wire will remain 0 volt...at all times😌)

When low beam is activated, one pin has 12.6 v and one pin has 0 v and the black wire has still 12.6 v!!!! When high beam is activated, the wire which show 12 v during low beam now reads 0 v and the other wire has 12 v, and black wire is still 12.6 volt at all time!!!!

2. With still key at ON, and corresponding fuse of right side headlamp is pulled out. As LOW beam is activated, still the bulb lights up but very very dimmed, and shows about 7 volt on this particular low beam wire.

And, HIGH beam is activated, again bulb lights up but very very dimmed, and shows 7 volt on this particular high beam wire.

Is not there be O VOLT when low and high beams activated since the corresponding fuse to this particular headlight is removed.

Same reading 7 volt on the left side headlamp when it's corresponding fuse is removed.

Is the 7 volt reading ok after having fuse removed???
Why the black wire has 12 v reading at all times???
 

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1. With key at ON, each 3 pins, black, green and yellow, of the coupler shows 12.6 Vol.
That is telling you the headlamps are return side switched. In other words the switch sends a ground to the bulb to turn it on. Therefore there is no ground (everything is +12V) when the headlamps are off.

Thang Tons said:
2. With still key at ON, and corresponding fuse of right side headlamp is pulled out. As LOW beam is activated, still the bulb lights up but very very dimmed, and shows about 7 volt on this particular low beam wire.
What you describe sounds normal to me. But the voltage your measuring can't be on the low beam wire, because that is switched to ground when the switch is set to the low beam position. The 7V would be on the high beam wire, and you'd have approx 3.5V on the power supply wire.

When you remove the fuse for the right headlamp power from the left hand lamp back feeds through the high beam circuit. I've attached a diagram below to demonstrate what I suspect is happening. In the diagram the fuse for the left hand headlamp has been removed, and hopefully you'll be able to see that when the fuse is removed the left low beam, left high beam, and right high beam bulbs now form a series circuit, meaning these 3 filaments will all illuminate at approx 1/3 of they're full intensity (very very dimmed). If you where to measure the voltage on the different sections of the circuit you would find 12V on the red sections, approx 7V on the orange, approx 3.5V on the yellow sections, and the black sections are ground, so 0V.

Gen 1 Hyunai i20 headlamp voltages

443463
 

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Discussion Starter #599 (Edited)
With fuse removed, I ground the black wire with multimeter. Yes, the bulb is glowing a bit brighter!!!

Am I getting lose ground connections?? Any suspect??

But, with fuse attached and low and high beams activated separately, ground the same procedure. Instead of the bulb getting brighter, the 10 amp is blown!!! I'm trying to make the bulb more brighter.....but.....

Also, ground wire is always getting 12 v as well in any beams on or off!!!!

(Found no loose connections, ground etc. All good)
 

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The black wire is the power supply, not the ground.
In the diagram above the yellow section of the circuit is the black wire on the car. When you ground that wire with the fuse removed the high beam filament will get brighter and the low beam filament will switch off because you've placed a short circuit across the low beam bulb. Updated diagram below...
443464
 
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