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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
If you have seen my post " 1.5L SOHC terrible noise" You would see that I am doing some major repair work to my 01 accent.

The cylinder head is removed.

Valves are sealing properly.

Valve seals are shot.

Camshaft lifters are ok.

Camshaft bearing surfaces are showing early signs of excessive wear.

Camshaft bearing journals are looking decent.

Top of engine block is covered with a sticky, copper looking residue.

I am used to working on Lycoming, recip aircraft engines. When you have these cam bearing issues, you measure the journals 50 million times and if there is any significant difference in the dimensions or if the average dimension is too large, you have the alluminum journals bored out (provided they aren't over the limit) and get a new camshaft with oversized bearing surfaces.

So I am not going to be flying my car and do not need to meet any FAA guidelines. I just want my repair job to last. The aluminum bearing journals on my cylinder head look acceptable. Should I just toss in a new cam and call it good?

As far as the rest goes, The rocker shafts and all rocker surfaces have no defects whatsoever. The head is covered with carbon and sludge and needs new valve seals, but otherwise looks ok. (can't see the guides yet) The valves themselves seal just fine. The real problem is the intake valves dumping oil into the engine whenever they open.

Final question. There is a tacky, copper colored residue on the engine block that is not prooving to be easily removed. I like working surgical clean style. What should I use to remove it?

Thanks and regards.

448 Posts
Since you have experience on aircraft engines, this shouldn't offer any significant challenge. From your description, you have a problem with the valve stem seals and they should be relatively easy to replace, then you can move onto the cam itself. You still need to measure the cam shaft journals to see what your new bearing size will be and to see if you need to have the cam shaft journals turned to match the new bearings - a shop manual should give you the allowable tolerances for that engine. Unless the bearings for the cam are not insert sleeves or split as you get for connecting rods, you shouldn't need to do anything with the head itself, each bearing should fit right into it's location without machining.

The copper looking sludge would be your worn bearing material - common with worn bearings, especially when they've worn through the surface & into the brass.

The tacky copper colored stuff on your block would most likely be the hi-heat RTV (silicone gasket sealer). I don't use this stuff on a head/block junction but do use it elsewhere & it is good stuff when used appropriately. Just use a scraper to remove it down to bare metal but ensure that you don't groove the surface you're scraping. I generally use a "razor blade scraper" with a fresh blade or a wood chisel with a smooth surface & edge (when using this, be careful not to have a corner of the chisel groove the head/block surface).

When you reassemble, don't forget to use thread locker where necessary - use the "blue" lock-tite, this allows disassembly without heat.
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