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Discussion Starter #1
So at 97k my timing chain is worn enough that there is a half inch deflection at midpoint between the cams. Got all new OE parts for the timing chain and the oil pump chain. There is an improved chain part but you have to order the BK2 +2013 chain. I got the old chain because of the part number confusion. So it is. And I'm ready to install after getting every thin cleaned up and a new crank seal on the timing cover.

So ready to put on chain as said in the manual. Crank at TDC (white spot on chain sprocket straight down) and the two cams generally lined up with the small line even with the head (nice cast mark on the head to line it up with).

Then manual says install tensioner guide (not tensioner, it's last). Then put chain on crank sprocket with the chain link matching up with white dot. Then up to the intake cam. I had to turn the cam slightly to get the chain in the right spot. Then on to the exhaust cam, had to turn it too a bit the cam there too. Then put the tensioner on. Then put the fixed right side guide on. But check again as the crank sprocket will have some chain slack before the tensioner is let loose. May have to hold the chain on the correct spot at the crank sprocket before pulling tensioner pin.

I then dumped a couple quarts of oil in the pan so the oil pump would prime as I hand turned it.

Then the manual says 2 complete revolutions of the crankshaft in a clockwise direction and the marks should all line up. No way. So I tried 4 revolutions still no way. I have to do 20 revolutions to get the marks to match up again.

It all spins free by hand. Am I good to go?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
The two revolutions is the cam and crank marks not the marks on the chain. The marks do line up at two revolutions and the chain links line up after 20. All buttoned up now.

There are three bolts that go on the center of the cover. One short and long 10mm and one 8mm Two have bosses on the block and one short 10mm goes on the left side in the center. I put sealant on that one as it threads into a panel on the other side of the cover.

The hardest part in putting it on is aligning the two pins and the water tube. It all pops on after you get the water tune started.

Do not forget to put sealant on the two inner bosses and the water tube area.
 

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I think as you lined them up right it is then no relation to how many turns it takes to realign. That's determined by how many links the chain has etc etc. I remember the first time I came across this occurrence. I quoted a ridiculously low price to get the job then spent hours playing around not getting the gift of what was actually happening. Didn't make much per hour on that job. Am I reading right that you cranked the engine by hand to prime the oil up? Or was that just because you intended to turn it many revolutions?
 

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Yes the new chain has three colored links, OE did not. You set the cams and crank then use the colored links to match each cam and the crank. Manual says turn two complete revolutions and the marks should again line up. They meant the marks on the cams and crank, not the colored links on the chain. But I did need to prime the oil pump. Took about 15 revolutions to get oil coming out of the oil squinter tube and oil the chain up.

2 day job if only to let the sealant cure.
 

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So at 97k my timing chain is worn enough that there is a half inch deflection at midpoint between the cams. ....
So did you do this job based strictly on that 1/2" deflection, or were there other things such as increasing noise as well? Did you compare the old chain to the new one, to see what the actual difference in size was? Also, what does the deflection measure now with the new chain on?

Not intending this to sound critical of what you did - just trying to get all the facts and your observed results. Very few DIYers have reported even a plan to replace the chain, and I don't recall anyone ever posting a reliable report of the outcome of this job. So I'm very interested in knowing the details of what you're doing.
 

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My biggest complaint is you didn't post any pictures. What did you use to determine the deflection (just taking off the valve cover or actually a cam/crank correlation)?
 

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Discussion Starter #7
It's a known issue on the 2010-2012 2L turbo Gen Coupe. Some have failed (skipped teeth on the cams) at less than 60k miles. Deflection now is less than a1/8".

Here are the old and new chains. Old chain is about 1/4" longer.

I did a V8 DOHC a few years ago.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I took a lot of pictures. This is actually the last forum I posted to seeing as the Gen Coupe section is dead.

Cams at 97k


Deflection


Tensioner out 4 notches


Old and new chain side by side


Changed the oil pump chain too. It really did not need it nor did any of the cam or pump guides show any wear.


 

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It's a known issue on the 2010-2012 2L turbo Gen Coupe. Some have failed (skipped teeth on the cams) at less than 60k miles. Deflection now is less than a1/8".

Here are the old and new chains. Old chain is about 1/4" longer.

I did a V8 DOHC a few years ago.
Thanks, and I wasn't aware of this particular Theta. I checked my doc, and it appears the Genesis has a Theta variation not used anywhere else - MPI 2.0L Turbo, according what I'm reading (however, I have no way of knowing if that's correct). So this is yet another way that the Theta engine family can bite owners in the butt. The list of problems just seems to go on and on. Anyway, hats off to you for being proactive, and getting this done before it trashed the valves and turned into a much bigger job!
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks, and I wasn't aware of this particular Theta. I checked my doc, and it appears the Genesis has a Theta variation not used anywhere else - MPI 2.0L Turbo, according what I'm reading (however, I have no way of knowing if that's correct). So this is yet another way that the Theta engine family can bite owners in the butt. The list of problems just seems to go on and on. Anyway, hats off to you for being proactive, and getting this done before it trashed the valves and turned into a much bigger job!
2010 was first year of production. 6sp that would grind, OE clutch is not good for anymore than 250HP. The timing chain and a funky intake manifold that leans out #4 cylinder.

The 2013s and up are much improved. I think 2015 the stopped offering the 2L T.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Filled it with fluids and brought it up to temp. Letting it sit now to see if any leaks. Can't drive it till the 15th anyway due to no insurance.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Thanks, good oil (Mobil 1) and filters (Fram Ultra) with 5k mile OCI. The oil always truns dark almost immediately when I do an oil change. I assume it's because there's a 1/2 quart or so left in the block. But just goes to show you can't judge oil by color. Usually change due to fuel dilution. But 5k mile is the normal service interval for the oil.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
My gas mileage has taken a nice up swing since the chain was installed. Up from ~32 mpg last year up to 36 mpg last tank.


report # date miles gallons mpg cost station
85 6/3/19 465.36 12.819 36.30 3.199 W G
84 5/25/19 507.68 14.840 34.21 3.369 P66 C
83 5/16/19 504.21 14.694 34.31 3.199 W G
82 5/7/19 462.53 13.661 33.86 3.199 W G
81 4/27/19 459.38 14.068 32.65 3.199 WG
 
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