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Timing Belt Tip

Take a look at the "Sticky Notes" at the top of this model year.
There are three of them and you want #2.
Read it two or three times before you begin to turn a wrench.

Good luck,
Paul
 

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2.7 isn't bad. Just be careful pulling the crank pulley. (Pull the front wheel first) I used a crowbar gently and still ended up chipping the lip in a few spots. A puller is best. the chips started fraying my serpentine belt till I sanded the rough edges down. Everything on the passenger side needs to be moved or removed(motor mount). Just make sure your timing marked are lined up on the crank and cams when you start and don't move anything before you put the belt on. Then hand turn the crank a few times to make sure everything is on and marks still line up and then reassemble. Be sure to change the tensioner and idler while your in there. Water pump really isn't necessary unless you never serviced the fluid or your under 200K. I changed mine on the second belt change at around 225K and it still wasn't leaking.
 

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2.7 isn't bad. Just be careful pulling the crank pulley. (Pull the front wheel first) I used a crowbar gently and still ended up chipping the lip in a few spots. A puller is best. the chips started fraying my serpentine belt till I sanded the rough edges down. Everything on the passenger side needs to be moved or removed(motor mount). Just make sure your timing marked are lined up on the crank and cams when you start and don't move anything before you put the belt on. Then hand turn the crank a few times to make sure everything is on and marks still line up and then reassemble. Be sure to change the tensioner and idler while your in there. Water pump really isn't necessary unless you never serviced the fluid or your under 200K. I changed mine on the second belt change at around 225K and it still wasn't leaking.
So, you went around 112k miles on your belt changes?
 

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I give you 2hr tops to change a 2.7L belt on a rack.. piece of cake...

I will tell you,, bring it up on marks,, then paint mark a tooth of belt at each of the 3 cogs,, then remove belt..

Transpose marks to new belt carefully,, then flip new belt back on same as it was removed

Use new hydraulic tensioner, DO NOT USE old tensioner
 

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Yeah, no cracks or fraying. They are really built pretty tough. If you don't beat on them and they don't get any oil or contamination, they last. All 4 of my cars have been changed at least once and my Sportage twice. Went 120K on the first one.
 

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I changed mine out a few months ago. I bought it at auction and it had no service history, so I changed the water pump, too. I'd say the water pump was the biggest PITA for me because I couldn't place a basin in the right spot to catch the fluid since the jack was partially in the way. Also, trying to get the new water pump seated properly was another problem until I loosened the black shroud/cover that the top of the pump lips under.
 
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