[sbr711]

Recent similar topic -> http://www.hyundai-forums.com/index.php?showtopic=49670

125,000..... do the pump and the tensioner also

 

[sbr711]

In the last pic, it appears there is layer of white crust between block and A/C compressor ??

 

[sbr711]

QUOTE (pjm123a @ Jun 20 2010, 11:53 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=334650

This step appears to be quite different for Sonatas (at least mine):
2.5/2.7 damper both remove the same, be it Sonata or Santa FE... it falls right off the crank cog, unless the nose of the cog is rusty, making it stuck the damper, along withthe roll pin.. in that case, cut the timing belt, and pull the pulley out enough to get at the cover bolts, and then pull pulley and cover off together, then carefully remove cog from pulley hub and clean off the rust so it freely fits together..

17. Remove the crankshaft pulley. You'll probably need to wiggle it back and forth as you pull it straight off. The more you can wiggle it, the easier it is to come off. The pulley is "keyed" to the crankshaft with a pin (located now at about the 1:00 position). This pin will stay on the crankshaft cog, and will be what you use to make sure the crankshaft is aligned once you get the new timing belt on.

There is no way that pulley is coming off with your hands. You could wiggle it forever. I had to put a wheel puller on it.
This got it off but unfortunately cracked the edge of the pulley. I'm sure there is a special tool that can be used for this.
My wheel puller was generic. There seems to be quite a bit of confusion on what this thing is called (crankshaft pulley, harmonic something or other, damper-pulley).
Depends on how you were taught... crank damper, harmonic balancer, crank pulley, and so forth... the pulley ideally is supposed to come right off the crank cog, yours was stuck with rust.



Anyway I ordered a new one from HyundaiOEMparts.com. They call it --> PULLEY-DAMPER - 2.5L 1999-01, 2.7L 2002-05.

What I like about this site is they want your VIN to make sure you get the right part. So far everything I've gotten
from them is has been right. This part set me back $97.35 delivered to my door. I think it is pretty important though
that this part be perfect since it seems to provide some balance function. What is interesting is that it was cracked
in a few places. I honestly don't think I did it all. Could it have been weakened or cracked when the dealer did the
last timing belt change and they just put it back on????? I mean I COULD do that too. It would work.
Here is a pic of the damage. What do you guys think? Would you re-use this?
[attachment=189361010001.JPG]

You can re-use that, take and radius the edges on the belt side of the break.. been there---done that

On a positive note the belt itself came off real easy even before I took off the tensioner.
Sounds like the wise move will be to replace the tensioner.... especially if the belt was LOOSE...


I marked it with paint where the cam timing marks were. I intend to use the counting teeth
method when I put the new one on.

On a positive note, the water pump is in fine shape. No sign of leakage and the bearing is nice and tight.
Where did you look for leak ??? remember the pic above that I asked about the white crust ?? The pump leaks into a passage in the block,, that in turn dumps out there just above the A/C compressor..... right there where your unknown white crust is seen...

Also, the idler and tensioner pulleys were just fine as well. I replaced them cause I already had the new parts.
I put the old ones in the boxes that the new ones came in and am saving them. I would not hesitate to re-use them.
I don't know if it is cause I change oil religiously or what, but I'm not seeing any signs of excessive wear on anything
(including the belt itself).

One more thing, mu auto tensioner is also different than what the guide describes. It is held on by only one bolt and I don't
see anything that I can compress. Like I said, I was able to get the belt off without even taking it off. I only took it off to
replace the pulley since I had already brought the new one.

Since I'm going to leave the water pump alone, I'm basically ready to start re-assembling.

I guess that means I'm half way done and moving on to step 24.

Here is a 2.7 damper that is seperated - picture at left

Your tensioner you need to compress is the iron cylinder looking thing there at left with 2 bolts holding it to block, and you can barely make out the grenade pin holding the shaft in place to allow install of tensioner to block... need a pin, I gots like 50 or so of them... :banana:

 

[sbr711]

If it is a 2.4, it'll jump, seen it happen a few times... Hyundai has a service bulletin for some other issue that involves revised upper cover with num inside to keep belt from jumping

Anymore, I do a timing belt on a 2.4, YOU ARE getting a new tensioner, been burned using old tensioner..

 

[sbr711]

Tiburon this morning.... sure you dont need a water pump -- see pics for "unknown debris"...

 

[sbr711]

QUOTE (pjm123a @ Jun 24 2010, 09:15 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=335961

Hi sbr711,

Is the white crusty substance by itself enough to indicate a problem?
Yes, that is sign the pump shaft seal has leaked some and the crust is residue... use your finger tip, and feel side of block, there is a hole there.

Is there something else I can look out for.
I noticed today there is a 2nd seep hole just above pulley, but you cannot see it unless belt cover is off, the 1 I had today had crust as seen in the pics above, and a blob at the pulley



Also, in one of your posts you mention re-using the pulley is OK, but to radius:
You can re-use that, take and radius the edges on the belt side of the break.. been there---done that

Is that what you mean radiusing?
Where you have the break (jagged edge),, take a file and bevel/round off the sharp edge on the belt side of the break so the belt will pass without getting caught on the sharp edge and tear up the edge of the belt.




I take that you do not think it is possible for the serpentine belt to move
off the pulley with no shoulder. Is that because the belt is "ribbed" and held on by the grooves in the pulley?
The ribs aid in keeping belt on pulley, but the added contact (surface area of the ribs) provides more traction than a plain old "V" belt

Thank you for all you advice. I take it you do this for a living?
Hyundai dealer tech by day, approx 7yr so far :thumbsup:

It is great that you help out us DIYers!
Some of this stuff can get a DIY into trouble real fast, and be expensive... then it comes to me :banana:

In the pics, I have lined out the flow from the water pump and through the passage in the block to outside for somebody to see signs of leak when dervicing underneath.. the other pic notes the seep hole into cavity from pump shaft, then out of cavity via passage yo outside of block..

 

[sbr711]

Ma & Pa is a couple mile north of Weeki Wachi Springs along 19...

There Christmas 2007.

 

[sbr711]

I will do generic look up on my price guide, and look at the part I come up with if we have it. Bear with me, I'll be a nut case in the morning withthe couple things I need to catch up on..

Very well could be they changed vendor for the part, or design change to lighten the part. Gots to be genuine part, it is in the new packaging, and does have the parts depot sticker on it...

The part was shipped to Delray Hyundai (FL090) from the part depot.

 

[sbr711]

I looked up the part... the number is correct.

We have (3) of them sitting here on the shelf, and they is of the same style as what you show in your pictures.

Appears to be a design change for some reason..

 

[sbr711]

QUOTE (Setec Astronomy @ Jul 10 2010, 11:23 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=340528

Maybe I keep missing this in all the timing belt threads...I know you (ideally) need an impact wrench to get the crankshaft pulley bolt loose, but how do you tighten it?

I use my I-R 3/8 drive impact and a short 7/8" six point impact socket and tighten it.. I rarely break out my 1/2 gun, too big/bulky... unless bolt is extremely tight

If you use the impact wrench, how do you know that it's tight enough and not too tight?
Experience

Experience

 

[sbr711]

You probably be good..

 

[sbr711]

QUOTE (zeeboid @ Jul 28 2010, 10:45 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=345516

okay, when in doubt, I hit things with a hammer and blam-o! It seperated with the pin holding them together intacked.

Now, anyone versed on the timing procedure of the 2.4?

Scroll around here in the Sonata and Santa Fe forums... I have a link posted in one of the topics to a big write up I did...

I had it save my computer, but installed new hard drive last night, and none of that info is saved anywhere.. sinton might have the link saved and ready to go, so you might send him a message and see if he has it readily available.


Look in this topic here, I managed to piece some of it together --
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/t37341-sonat...tep-by-step.htm