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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everyone,

Changed the timing belt. Used the red mark up top and the cut in the block on the lower one to get TDC. Changed everything with new parts. Double checked the marks after the belts were on (rotated by hand through two full turns and checked to see if the marks were in the same spot). I followed the write up that was posted here by U95.

Anyway, the car won't start. It tries cranking, but won't actually start. There is fuel and the battery should be good to go. There shouldn't be any Fuel/Compression/Air issues.

I guess my question is: has this happened to anyone else? and if the timing belt is not tightened enough, would that keep it from firing?

Also, in trying to crank it by key every thing sounds normal (no knocks or pings or valves getting bent sounds) and turning by hand gives just the little bit or normal resistance but spins nicely, so ya...I'm confused. :puzzled:

I'll probably take the battery to get it load (I used my tender to try and start it as well, didn't make a difference) tested tomorrow and then try the starter (shouldn't be bad though, only 60k on the car). Otherwise I'll have to teardown and start over.
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Update: The battery was dead per load testing so bought a new one. Car still wouldn't start. Cranks but no start.

So I pulled everything off and I set the Crank pulley to the mark on the block (TDC) and.... the top cam mark is off about 2 teeth to the left!! I am absolutely floored on how that happened?! When I put everything together, I had cranked by hand through two full turns and the marks had lined up. I wonder if perhaps I don't have enough tension it? But from my sharpie marks it looks as the belt hasn't jumped any teeth.

So now my question is: can I take off the belt and just move the cam pulley over by hand to the mark or should I line the top mark up by hand, take off the belt and then move the crank pulley to the left to match TDC?

I know the cam rotates once for every two crank revolutions, so I'm not sure on how I could line this up now without causing a disaster.

Also, the car actually never fired, but I did try cranking it for about 3 mins total as well as maybe 8 or so revolutions by hang. Could I have bent the valves?

Any advice would be really appreciate here please!
 

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Rotate the works so the crank pulley mark lines up with "0" on the cover.. and the small hole on cam sprocket is up..

Looosen idle pulley bolt and pulley, reset belt to cam pulley... keep the drive (pull) side of belt tight installing the belt to cam pulley in counter clock wise fashion, then use idle pulley to remove slop of belt..
 

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Thank you Sb for replying, I really appreciate it. I'm freaking out pretty bad here. I'm really hoping I haven't bent valves. I didn't hear any odd metal crunching sounds when cranking the engine, so fingers crossed...

I looked for the "0" to line up the crank pulley, and the Elantra doesn't appear to have one on the cover.

I have included pics of the cam and crank sprockets. The crank is set to TDC and the cam is off. Could I hold the crank at TDC and move the cam over (clockwise) to the mark? Will that be a fix?
 

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You should use the crank pulley (not gear) and the timing marks on the plastic lower timing belt cover to set the timing of the crankshaft. You'll see white hash marks on the cover along with a 0 to indicate that the crankshaft is at TDC. You can also use a wooden dowel through the spark plug hole of cylinder one to determine when the piston is at its highest point.

The camshaft should be timed by looking through the hole in the cam pulley so that it is over top of the red notch on the camshaft end cap.

Going by memory your timing looks pretty far off, but you might be close enough to have avoided damaging anything. If you were able to rotate it by hand a couple of times I doubt you managed to shatter any valves.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the reply Norubit.

I am an hour away from the car, had to come back for the work week. Won't be able to check until this Saturday.

I'll recheck the lower cover for the "0" marking. I checked last night in the dark and might have missed it.

So just to make sure I understand you clearly:

1. Line up crank pulley at TDC
2. Remove crank pully and timing belt
3. Turn Cam to the right the few teeth it is off by hand lining up with red dot on head
4. Put everything back on
5. Crank by hand a few turns to make sure it stays in alignment
6. Pray I didn't bend valves and start her up?

Will this work and make sure everything is timed up?

I honestly worked very slowly with my bro while doing this and I know for a fact that when I finished up and turned the crank by hand 2 full revs, the marks had lined up. I am still completely unaware of how the heck the darn thing slipped enough to push the cam to the left 2-3 teeth, but I digress, it has moved and clearly it must have been my fault. The times Ive cranked since by hand and key, there was no odd noises or anything. Just the car not turning over, maybe it happened then. And, yes, rotating by hand made no noises and only seemed to have the resistance from compression, nothing so bad that I had to really give the wrench some force.
 

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Looking at the pictures again, I think you timed the crankshaft incorrectly. You are using the notch in the crank gear instead of the notch in the crank pulley. There is a notch in the crank pulley that should line up with the white 0 degree marker on the timing belt's lower plastic cover.

Here's what I would do. It's been a while so hopefully I am remembering the steps properly.

1. Remove spark plugs and pull fuse for fuel injectors.
2. Loosen the tensioner and slide timing belt off the camshaft gear.
3. Make sure the lower plastic cover with the white timing marks is installed and slide the crankshaft accessory belt pulley on. The pulley will have a small notch on it.
4. Slowly alternate rotating the crankshaft and camshafts clockwise a few degrees at a time until the camshaft is at "TDC" and the crankshaft accessory belt pulley notch is at the 0 degree indicator (also TDC). The belt should be loose from the camshaft pulley for this.
5. Make sure belt is correctly seated on the crankshaft gear. Slide timing belt onto the camshaft gear making sure all of the belt slack is on the left side of the pulleys, the side with the tensioner. Having an extra tooth or two on the right side of the belt will whack out your timing. Reinstall tensioner. Unlike accessory belts the timing belt can't work out its extra slack as it rotates. The teeth prevent it for obvious reasons.
6. Tighten the tensioner to remove the slack from the left side of the belt. I kind of do this by feel. There are specs in the manual about how much deflection you should have but I don't have the tools for that.
7. Rotate the crankshaft clockwise for two turns by hand and recheck timing. Lack of spark plugs will make this easier.
8. Crank engine over a couple of times and recheck timing.
9. Reinstall spark plugs and plug fuse back in for fuel injectors.
10. Start engine and maybe do a compression and leak down test afterwards for assurance.


PS: Did you change the water pump?
 

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Just leave the bottom alone,, align the pulley mark to the "T" or "0" on the front cover, loosen tension pulley and slide belt off.

Turn cam sprocket to align hole with red mark, then put belt back on,, working counter clockwise from "pull/drive side of belt keeping it tight and over top of cam cog to tension pulley side.. set tension, and then do your hand rotate.
 

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Possibly the fuel pump fuse? I am only asking because I am in the middle of a timing belt change .I remove the fuel pump fuse when I cranked the car over to remove the crankshaft nut and have been fearful that is what I am going to do.
 

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Bit late now but when I do a cambelt I just tippex marks on the existing belt and cogs, then transfer the marks to the new belt (you can lay one belt on top of the other to do this and also count teeth to double check the marks on the new belt are correct), then fit new belt. Job done and no worries about timing marks at all.
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
Hey guys,

Thanks for all the replies, appreciate it. Just wanted to update the thread.

I did not replace the water pump, since the car is still under warranty. We called the dealer and Water pump is 10/100k. This car is 6/62k right now.

I got lucky on Friday. My cousin, an 25+ year ASE certified mechanic who lives pretty far away, stopped by the house to have lunch because he happened to be in the area for some tool or gun show or something that was near our city. He saw the car in the garage and basically put it back together for my bro and I, while my bro made him lunch. I live about an hour away, so it was a nice gesture. Love that dude...:)

Anyhow, he pulled the 1st plug, used the timing cover mark (guess he found it?) and set the crankshaft to TDC. Then he removed the belt and re-aligned the camshaft to the red mark and laid the belt in. He actually went counter-clockwise too, SB. Tightened everything up. Drove the car around and everything looked good, no bent valves or anything. Hit the freeway ran great. My bro said it's driving better than before we did the plugs and fluids and timing belt.

On Saturday night, my bro was driving the car home from work and stopped to get gas and when he tried starting the car, it wouldn't turn over. He waited to try and get a jump (thought maybe he got a dud battery from Costco) and randomly tried starting the car and it worked. But now he has a CEL. So he got the code pulled yesterday (car started fine, got to the place about 14 minutes away, turned it off and back on and wouldn't start. Waited about 15 minutes and it started fine again) He got the P0016, which is either the CVVT Oil or Cam and/or Crank shaft senors.

I looked up some info here and I'm gonna try cleaning the CVVT this Saturday based on that TSB that came out for it in '04 And SBR's posts on another forum. Hopefully, it's that.

I'll put an update in when I find the culprit.
 

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Bit late now but when I do a cambelt I just tippex marks on the existing belt and cogs, then transfer the marks to the new belt (you can lay one belt on top of the other to do this and also count teeth to double check the marks on the new belt are correct), then fit new belt. Job done and no worries about timing marks at all.

+1 to this. I used this method on the timing belt on my girlfriend's VW Beetle. It will work, assuming the new and old belt have the same number of teeth, which they should.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Hey Guys,

Had my wisdom teeth taken out recently, so still kind of out of it.

Just to wrap this up, I pulled the CVVT and cleaned it with carb cleaner and then disconnected the crank cam senors and waited about half an hour. then connected everything, unplugged the battery and held down the brake pedal for about 10 mins to clear ECU. Plugged the battery back in again and voila! Starts first turn and everytime since Tuesday of last week.

Thanks for all your advice, help and motivation.

Sticks - I did not pull any fuse plug for this operation. I disconnected the battery and put an old golf club cover over the terminal

And, yup, can do the timing belt any which way you want. Personally, I'm glad I went with the timing marks 'cause it just made it easier to see when I was out of time. The marks indicate default, and anything that gets messed up, you know you can always fix by setting it to default and doing everything over again. I was able to get everything off and the belt back on, but by using engine marks, my cousin was able to come finish the job and I didn't have to miss any time from work and it got the car on the road sooner. But ya, either way will work, depends on what you prefer. :grin:
 
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