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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have noticed a ticking noise at idle recently and was wondering if anyone else has this problem? I am the original owner and have never heard this until recently (like within the last month or so). The noise is definitely coming from the engine with or without the A/C on.

It is a 2007 GLS with the 2.7, and 46K miles.
 

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Most Santa Fes make some audible ticking noise at idle, due to the fuel injector solenoids. But have a mechanic listen to it if you're concerned.
 

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Occasionally my 3-month old 2010 has a very light clicking noise for maybe 30 seconds after I start it up in the morning. I do not notice it every morning. I figure it's normal as it certainly goes away and does not come back until the next morning (or so I think)

Mike
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Thanks for the replies.

This noise starts about 30 seconds after starting as well. However it does not go away. It's very noticeable especially at the drive thru's when the noise is echoing off the walls of the buildings (when I first heard it I was at an ATM and thought "what is that ticking noise?!"). I've had this vehicle for 3 1/2 years and have never heard this until now.

Oil change is due soon so I'll have it looked at.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
In case anyone was wondering,

Called the dealer, and it turns out the ticking noise I have been hearing is coming from the valves. According to the owner's manual they need to be adjusted at 50,000 miles, and since I'm approaching that mileage it's time anyway. I just realized this noise began after I had the camshaft position sensor replaced, but surely nothing happened while they were fixing that?
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
QUOTE (canderson @ Oct 23 2010, 08:54 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=365627
Eh? Didn't think the two engines were that different. My 3.3 specifies "Inspect" every 60K. No specified adjustment period.


I meant 60K my mistake! But yeah they don't specify an adjustment period, just if needed. But more than likely most of us will need some adjustment as we approach that 60K mark (which for us 2.7 owners also means a new timing belt)...yay.
 

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QUOTE (carver2011 @ Oct 23 2010, 09:43 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=365648
I meant 60K my mistake! But yeah they don't specify an adjustment period, just if needed. But more than likely most of us will need some adjustment as we approach that 60K mark (which for us 2.7 owners also means a new timing belt)...yay.
Yeah, that 60K always seemed a little early for a belt replacement (I'm used to 100K or so on my other belted vehicles), but you really don't want to have one break. The 2.7L is, like most engines these days, fully capable of introducing your piston tops to your valve bottoms in a sort of "mixed martial arts" sort of way. Not pretty. I'm just as happy to have the chain on the 3.3.
 

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QUOTE (carver2011 @ Oct 23 2010, 09:43 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=365648
I meant 60K my mistake! But yeah they don't specify an adjustment period, just if needed. But more than likely most of us will need some adjustment as we approach that 60K mark (which for us 2.7 owners also means a new timing belt)...yay.
As an aside, your valves aren't "adjustable" anyway. The lifters are shimmed. If there's a problem that needs to be addressed, they'll have to swap with shims of a different gauge.
 

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You dont want to know the real world cost to adjust the valves and what it takes to do it on the 3.3/3.8
 

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QUOTE (sbr711 @ Oct 23 2010, 07:40 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=365769
You dont want to know the real world cost to adjust the valves and what it takes to do it on the 3.3/3.8
Apart from the amount of disassembly and reassembly involved, how much time is involved in selecting a new shim for a specific lifter? Does it turn into a "try this one - nope, down one size", or is it pretty much measure and replace, getting it right the first time?
 

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QUOTE (canderson @ Oct 23 2010, 10:37 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=365783
Apart from the amount of disassembly and reassembly involved, how much time is involved in selecting a new shim for a specific lifter? Does it turn into a "try this one - nope, down one size", or is it pretty much measure and replace, getting it right the first time?

The adjustment is done with complete bucket of correct thickness,,,,, measure all your valve clearance, write them all down, remove cams...

Remove the bucket and measure the thickness of the bucket (top face where cam lobe rides and the pad inside the bucket) with a caliper,, add or subtract to get desired bucket thickness to acquire desired vavle clearance.. then if you going that far to do a valve adjust, you just as well should set all the intakes to 1 clearance and all the exhaust to 1 clearance,,,, rather than letting go with it is in specs... I did this with my TOYOTA head some 260,000 mile ago, still just as quiet as the day I re-assembled the head, I set all the intake to .007 and exhaust to .010 I think it was.

You got it that far apart, whats price of 3 chains, and 2 tensioners since you got it that far apart to start with..
 

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Can't wait to see what they want to fulfill the "I"nspect procedure at 60K for this item. I'm assuming they will be wanting to tear things down to measure clearances, not just stick an ear into the engine compartment listening for valve clatter. Sounds like an ugly bill. Can't say I'm jazzed about the design to begin with, but I knew about it going in, so can't gripe. Gimme a good ol' well designed hydraulic any day.
 

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Inspect is not even on our 60 menu.. as long as it sounds like smooth sewing machine, I would not get too excited. When something starts pecking/clacking, then it "might" be something to look into.. as you can likey tell, remove all the junk at front to get cam cover off, remove the intake chamber and rear cam cover, time spent hand turning engine and fitting feeler gauge to get actual clearance (24x), then go from there.. we can leave it in spec -> rather wide range looking at values given (0.0039 ~ 0.0118in. for the intake /// 0.0078 ~ 0.0157in. for the exhaust),,, or adjust to a specific value,,, I would likely set up for .006 IN and .011 EX.





Nobody has asked that I know of, but I am in the shop, I do not deal with customers up front or on the phone.
 

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There's no need for paranoia when it comes to shim/bucket lash adjustment. I've owned several vehicles over the years with this setup and have participated in auto related chat forums where we've discussed this exact topic. This system is designed to last the life of the vehicle. You're about as likely to have issues with it, as you would a broken timing chain on the 3.3L. On that note, I don't recall if this valvetrain is direct acting, but if so, and you needed to do a clearance check on the 3.3L, you'd need to pull the timing chain to remove the cams. The cost would be such that you might as well drop a new engine in it!! I've owned and serviced several of the last generation of Isuzu 3.2/3.5's with shim/buckets. (1998-2004) These engines, provided you never ran them out of oil, could go ~200Kmi or would just die other deaths without ever a need to check/adjust valve clearance.

Joel
 

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Hi carver2011 - I have a 2008 2.7 V6 60,000KM with the same issue - ticking at idle. Noticed it at drive thurs so I popped the hood and you can hear it at idle behind the engine - my dealership isolated the problem to a noisey purge valve which they replaced. Just FYI. Also google ticking purge valve :)

-SF
 

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QUOTE (isav @ Oct 26 2010, 08:33 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=366388
Hi carver2011 - I have a 2008 2.7 V6 60,000KM with the same issue - ticking at idle. Noticed it at drive thurs so I popped the hood and you can hear it at idle behind the engine - my dealership isolated the problem to a noisey purge valve which they replaced. Just FYI. Also google ticking purge valve :)

-SF
Isn't the PCSV mounted to the canister on the 2.7? Center rear?

A quickie test of that would be to (briefly) disconnect the 2-wire connector from the valve. Start up, and listen carefully for the ticking. If it's gone, it's likely the solenoid. This procedure will throw a PO444 code not long after you start the engine (the open circuit will be detected), but that should not set the MIL if you start the car only ONCE with the connector disconnected.

Some vehicles (not ours) are especially prone to being noisy due to the mounting of the solenoid to the fenderwell sheet metal or similar spots where the noise is easily transferred. Sometimes remounting with an isolator pad helps.
 
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