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Discussion Starter #1
This is my first car ever and I've had a mess of problems since May. I essentially haven't been able to drive my car all summer. I'll try to keep it simple.

May 18: Stopped at the gas station to fill up. Tank was 1/4 full. After pumping the gas, got in and engine stalled out. Check oil light came on. Checked the fluids, checked the gas cap, everything's good there. Start car again, all electrical comes on, oil light is off, but engine won't stay on. Got car towed to mechanic recommended by a friend. They say it's a bad immobilizer switch. Charge me $400 to replace.

May 29: On my way to work, I stop to get gas just because it's really cheap near my job. Same exact problem as before happens. Oil light on, engine cutting off, etc. I wait 5 or so minutes and car starts fine. Drive to work and call the mechanic. Take it there after I get off. Mechanic has my car for 7 days "trying to diagnose the problem". Mechanic calls to say it's my fuel line and they flushed it, put gas in, drove it around, all is well EXCEPT that now my CEL is on. Mechanic says to me that he "was waiting for it to come on". I ask why, he has no explanation. I tell him hang up my keys, I'll be there as soon as I get back in town.

June 10: Pick my car up Monday am on my way to work. Pay $190 for "fuel pump and return line blow out". CEL is on when I get in and mechanic says I need a new throttle position sensor. About a mile up the road, car starts surging forward then sort of bottoming out. RPM is idling high and jumping all over the place. Engine is making a revving sound and giving a odor, but no smoking.

Since then I've gotten TPS replaced and car runs minimally smoother at first start but then surges, slows, revving sound like before. Took it to Hyundai dealership to have codes read. This is what I got back: P0560, P0506, P1166, P1167, P0102, P0507, P0121, P0123, P01505. Dealership wants to replace throttle body asy for $780 "before they can say what the problem is". There's no way I can afford that on a college budget. So I drove home and there my car sits.

I never had any problems that seemed like the throttle until the mechanic had it for a week. The previous owner is my cousin and neither had she. Now my throttle body is no good? Any help, thoughts, suggestions??
 

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That's very unfortunate for you. I had the same thing happen to me except with a 98 Grand Prix gt and it was a cracked head and antifreeze hydro locked the engine. What I did? I had to get a car bc I was stationed at ft hood tx and it was my first yr in the army, I finally settled with a 2010 cobalt and it was 13k I got a loan from navy fed and it was a horrendous apr (18%) which anything over 7 is bad. So I paid and paid and drove and drove and fixed and fixed until finally my credit score was considered very good and I had the car paid down to like 6k left. Went to a Hyundai dealer and told them I have a baby girl on the way and there is barely any room back there I wanted something quick stylish and affordable. So they showed me around the lot and there she was a 2013 Hyundai sonata pacific blue pearl and I fell in love. Had 0 mles on it and i took it home for 2 days and put 90 miles on it lol. They called me back and said I qualified for a 0 % apr for 84 mons and I took it it was at the time 24k and my payments are roughly 200 every 2 weeks.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Thanks for the reply cobalts_suck. Here's an UPDATE: The bf replaced the throttle body with a used one from a wrecked 2002 model. Put the new sensor on the replacement throttle body and cleared the CEL. Surging and bottoming out is gone but engine still idles high. Is there a way to adjust the TPS to eliminate this problem? Or is there something else we should be looking at?
 

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Thanks for the reply cobalts_suck. Here's an UPDATE: The bf replaced the throttle body with a used one from a wrecked 2002 model. Put the new sensor on the replacement throttle body and cleared the CEL. Surging and bottoming out is gone but engine still idles high. Is there a way to adjust the TPS to eliminate this problem? Or is there something else we should be looking at?
Your BF may have adjusted the throttle cable a bit, tell'm to make sure it's not too tight to the t-body
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Ok, I'll have him check that today. I forgot to mention that the RPM is running high while driving too, getting up to 4000 while I'm doing 40-45 mph. It idles around 1500 then starts quickly rising as soon as I start driving. The dealership also said I need a new timing belt. Don't know if that has anything to do with any of this?
 

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Ok, I'll have him check that today. I forgot to mention that the RPM is running high while driving too, getting up to 4000 while I'm doing 40-45 mph. It idles around 1500 then starts quickly rising as soon as I start driving. The dealership also said I need a new timing belt. Don't know if that has anything to do with any of this?
T-Belt won't do that, when it goes, you know it! Car will STOP! Has the vehicle been checked for any codes since the T-body replacement? Even if the light isn't on, there could be stuff pending that will show up. May need an idle air control valve.
 

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Discussion Starter #7 (Edited)
ANOTHER UPDATE: Took it to Autozone because car felt sluggish (on top of the same issues as before) and CEL had come back on. Had the codes read again like carmine suggested and here's what came back.
P0121-TPS "A" circuit range/performance
P0123-TPS "A" circuit high input
*P0306-Cylinder 6 misfire detected
P0507-Air control (IAC) system-RPM higher than expected
P0560-System voltage
P1505-Idle charge actuator signal low coil 1-IAC valve
*P1507-Idle charge actuator signal low coil 2-IAC valve

(The two codes with asterisks are new. All the other codes are repeats from original diagnosis.)

The guy at Autozone said I may have an intake air leak. Does that sound right? Also noticed that car seems to keep running for a few seconds after shutting off the engine.
 

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PO560 says the system voltage is out of tolerance. Is your alternator working properly? It looks like you have many codes with electrical issues. PO123 says the input voltage from the computer to the TPS is high. Do you know how to use a mutltimeter to check voltages and resistances at components?
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hey rootzos. Yeah I had the alternator and starter checked when the problems started initially at the same Autozone. Guy said everything was fine with both. I have very little car knowledge outside of basic repairs and what I've learned from this issue.
 

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Have you had the AIC and EGR units cleaned out yet? Either one of these units, when dirty/gooked up, can cause problems such as you report.
 

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Hey MC, I just checked my 2004 2.7 Sonata at the TPS. I have 5VDC at the top pin of the 3 pin connector going to the TPS. Your code PO123 suggests this might be high on your car. This may explain the high idle. The signal to the best I can tell comes from the engine control module. The code PO560 Power into the computer would concern me as well. I would try and find out what the system voltage to this unit should be. If it is off it may throw all of the outputs off as well, and you have many codes that suggest this. Good luck!
 
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