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Discussion Starter #1
Myself among others would love to hear any and all feedback about your Hyundai. If you are like me (or not) I have learned a lot from this forum. I also read all forum posts that I can before posting a question and/or concerns no matter how old they are. So often a question gets asked with responses for corrective action but rarely a response back as to what solved the problem or what was the results of corrective action. Where or how you got it fixed and the costs associated with the fixes. Any/all responses positive and/or negative (good and/or bad) are very much appreciated. Anything that you have to say about Hyundai (all years and models) that you think would be helpful to myself and all other owners would be appreciated. Myself and others would like to hear the good,the bad and the ugly. You never know how you can help someone and that is the real reason we are all here. Feel free to tell us your problem, how it got fixed and the costs associated with it.
Any suggestions for OEM vs aftermarket parts, the best dismantler (wrecking yard/junk yard) with a large inventory of Hyundai parts, aftermarket and performance parts, maintenance Do's and Don'ts and/or what worked and what didn't. Anything about Hyundai you think could/would be useful for anyone in this forum. I just acquired a 2002 Hyundai XG350L 3.5L, 5sp auto in Celedon Green with Beige interior. I know this car is 17yrs old with 177,000 miles on the clock and driven not to hard but had very little to no maintenance since 2009. Since I acquired this car for next to nothing I am trying to figure out if this car is worth the time and money to return it to its original glory for a daily driver as I know the resale value is very low. The best Hyundai quote I heard "Hyundai XG350L is the best near luxury car for the money". Thanx in Advance
 

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I've been in a few forums and it's fairly common for people once they have all the info they need not to return with any feedback, resolution or other. Very frustrating if what motivates you is the fault finding and resolution because in the end you've given everything and received nothing back . Nothing learnt and so the next person can't gain from it either.

I don't know what your import rules are but I generally use the online catalogs to get the OEM part numbers and start googling. There's quite a few Korean sellers on Ebay of OEM parts. KORAPS is one but they also have their own site.

In Australia often I can get the part at a third to a half the dealer price, but not always as there is a limit to what can be frieighted and a cheap bulky plastic part can end up as expensive or more than locally sourced.

2 parts I can give an example for an i30 is AUD. ball joints about $150 each in country ex deal;er, $100 a PAIR ex korea ebay. pressure solenoid for an auto box. $80 AUD delivered ex korea ebay, in country $306

It's not always that good, but it always pays to do your homework. Wreckers can charge stupid prices for items that you can get new for not much more over here
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I've been in a few forums and it's fairly common for people once they have all the info they need not to return with any feedback, resolution or other. Very frustrating if what motivates you is the fault finding and resolution because in the end you've given everything and received nothing back . Nothing learnt and so the next person can't gain from it either.

I don't know what your import rules are but I generally use the online catalogs to get the OEM part numbers and start googling. There's quite a few Korean sellers on Ebay of OEM parts. KORAPS is one but they also have their own site.

In Australia often I can get the part at a third to a half the dealer price, but not always as there is a limit to what can be frieighted and a cheap bulky plastic part can end up as expensive or more than locally sourced.

2 parts I can give an example for an i30 is AUD. ball joints about $150 each in country ex deal;er, $100 a PAIR ex korea ebay. pressure solenoid for an auto box. $80 AUD delivered ex korea ebay, in country $306

It's not always that good, but it always pays to do your homework. Wreckers can charge stupid prices for items that you can get new for not much more over here
Thanx Gerard 2
I'm glad you got the point of what I am aiming for. As a car guy I like a little more interaction with folks like yourself. I could not find a wrecking yard in the Seattle, Wa area with any XG350's. They say it is too old for them to inventory. Thanx for directing me to KORAPS as I am new to Hyundai and had not heard of them yet.Seems most of these forums are based around new car owners and not as much for the weekend DIY's like myself. I guess that is the intention. How is life down under? I raced lower levels of NASCAR back in the 80's but I gotta say I love that Australian V8 series. Some of the best racing in the world. I am always into learning and when I get my hands on a new car I like to learn as much as possible. I go to forums like this and hear lots of questions but rarely the end results. I will give my Hyundai experience so far.

I acquired a 2002 XG350L recently and the owner tried to run it into the ground till I rescued it. I am in the process of trying to figure out if it is worth saving so my wife can drive a near luxury car like this XG instead of her Honda CR-V manual trans she drives now. I don't want to or can't justify throwing money and time until I learn if it will be time and money well spent, now and into the future.

It was undrivable when I got it and was told it was just a wheel bearing. Simple fix. It turned out to be much more so I have turned to this forum for some answers. It has been very helpful and also frustrating as some questions I have have been asked multiple times with suggestions but rarely the final results.

This wheel bearing was so bad it ground up everything on the right front corner about 6mm into the knuckle itself. So far I have changed the knuckle that I got from a wrecking yard on EBAY for $63.00. I was surprised that it came with more than the ad said it would. It included the hub w/bearing (not sure how good it is yet), the lower ball joint and even the ABS sensor. I also had to change the caliper bracket for $37.00 at local parts store including core as mine was destroyed. I might still have to change the caliper and rotor but was hoping to first see if it is worth throwing that money at it. Finally got to drive it down the block to discover more problems.

Had to replace rear struts both sides that I got complete with springs and mounting braket from Detroit Axle for about $150.00 just to find out I also needed upper control arm bushings that I replaced for about $20.00. I learned from this forum that some folks got SAE threads with their new parts that turned out to be wrong. The machining was so bad, complete with rust that I had to chase all the threads with a M10 x 1.25 tap so I could use the stock hardware that came out of old parts. I was glad I did more research and did not just go with what several people said here and forced an SAE 3/8" x 24 fine thread tap down the hole like they did. (feel sorry for the next guy) Some folks never have time to do it right but always find time to do it over. LOL

I could not pull any codes when I got it as I'm sure they erased all codes before they parked it. Now that I was able to drive a couple miles without sounding like it would fall apart I am now getting Hyundai specific codes P1191, P1193 and generic code P0302. I got 41 pages of codes from this forum including Hyundai specific codes but did not included P1191 or P1193. After research earlier I have learned a few things like it should be in limp mode but is not acting like it. If anyone can help me I would really appreciate that.

Also along with my test drive I have noticed a vibrating drone sound when I turn right or forward but goes away with very slight turn to the left. Not really a vibration through the steering wheel (very slight) but more of a sound that changes (gets louder) with vehicle speed and not engine RPM.

As I start to understand more about Hyundai mainly through this forum and hands on I have found some repair manual info. buried deep here. I would like to find a good repair manual without paying 10's of dollars a week or hundred's of dollars a year if anyone knows of one.

If anyone can help I am at the point where I erased the 3 codes from my inexpensive Harbor Freight scanner and am going to take a few mile drive and stop and see if Autozone brings up any other codes on their more expensive scanner. I will be asking about them here later. Sidenote- I am watching the NASCAR burnout contest from Las Vegas right now. Looks like my kind of fun.

The vibration sound is my biggest concern. I have not ruled out anything yet. It could be a wheel bearing although I don't think so. Maybe the whole brake assembly (unsprung weight) I am also wondering if it could be from the ABS/TCS sensor ring on the driveline/half-shaft as it also got chewed by the bad wheel bearing. I am also wondering what happens if I unplug the right front corner ABS connection to see if it makes a difference.

If anyone has any suggestions for the 3 codes or the vibration sound including what would happen if I unplug the right front corner ABS I would be very grateful. If anyone is still reading this novel I ended up writing (not my intention) I thank you and look forward to any suggestions and/or contributions. Thank you Gerard 2. Stay safe and have a great Friday the 13th with full moon.

Peace-Out,
CARGUY13
 
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