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Discussion Starter #1
2007 sonata 4 cyl
Coolant leak at hose connection to thermostat cover. Disassembled to clean up and reattach which led me to notice ghat the metal that makes contact with the hose is pretty chewed up. I don't know if it's this way because of the leak or if it leaks because of the corrosion but regardless , what I thought would be an afternoon job of replacing the clamp and cleaning up the leak now has the car out of commission until I can get it replaced.
Problem is I am unable to find the correct part online. Only thing I'm finding is this used part on eBay https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/131905990872 which seems to he in the same condition as mine
I'm also being directed to the model for 6 cyls. Anybody have to replace one of these before?
 

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Visit local dealer of choice,,, walk to the part counter with VIN in hand.. fella look it up for you, and likely have to order from region PDC, which be a couple day, unless you pay extra for overnight.. dont forget new thermostat and upper & lower hose since they aged and you that far apart

With age, corrosion pits the aluminum fitting with craters of varying size, and rubber hose will never seal,, best to just replace joint and hose,, and keep clean coolant in it all the time,, 5yr to first coolant,,,,yea right... 30 interval / every other yr will keep things in good - clean condition
 
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Apparently, the thermostat housing for a 2007 Sonata is difficult to get.
Don't know why.
But, advanced auto parts has it (shop.advanceautoparts.com) available, new.
This just goes to show how doing anything on the car can turn from a half hour job to a week waiting for parts
And always that nut or bolt that doesn't want to come off or go back on
Turns a 20 minute job into an hour and a half.

If you do a search then look for "water outlet" or "thermostat housing"
 

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aluminum corrosion is softer than the metal rust. I would try some acid to carefully clean up, then polish with fine grit sand paper
 

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I've dealt with this many a time. Just clean off the corrosion, I use a bench mounted wire wheel. Make sure inside hose is also clean and then use a gear clamp to attach hose.
Only need to replace housing if whole neck is porous and could possible break. (You'll see that after cleaning, never seems to happen)
 

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I've dealt with this many a time. Just clean off the corrosion, I use a bench mounted wire wheel. Make sure inside hose is also clean and then use a gear clamp to attach hose.
Only need to replace housing if whole neck is porous and could possible break. (You'll see that after cleaning, never seems to happen)
The thread starter did say that the thing was leaking which is the reason for going there
So, my belief is that there is a crack or something requiring the replacement of the housing
What would you do in such a case?
Is it possible to mend or weld or braze it?

I recently replaced my thermostat. Then it turned into a cracked housing
And then had to replace the housing. If it were possible then I would have done anything to fix it
Weld, braze, JB weld whatever ... but, I know it probably would not hold
So, out into rush out traffic and bought the housing at the competitor (the auto parts store I work for ..
didn't stock the part)
 

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The thread starter did say that the thing was leaking which is the reason for going there
So, my belief is that there is a crack or something requiring the replacement of the housing
What would you do in such a case?
Is it possible to mend or weld or braze it?

I recently replaced my thermostat. Then it turned into a cracked housing
And then had to replace the housing. If it were possible then I would have done anything to fix it
Weld, braze, JB weld whatever ... but, I know it probably would not hold
So, out into rush out traffic and bought the housing at the competitor (the auto parts store I work for ..
didn't stock the part)

You can try JB Marine Weld. It's water resistant, pressure resistant, and can stand up to 500 F. Never tried that, but seems work from ads
 

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The corrosion caused the leak. Clean it off, make sure the inside if those is clean of corrosion, install back into housing. Use a new gear clamp to tighten hose connection.
YOU MUST BE CAREFUL THAT THE THERMOSTAT IS SEATED PROPWRLY IN THE HOUSING. IT WILL BREAK WHEN TIGHTEN UP TO INTAKE!!!!
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I ended up ordering oem parts for the housing, hoses, and thermostat. The more I attempted to clean off the corrosion the more the pits and pores became apparent. I'd rather not risk having to repeat the job. My question though is why is only that specific part corroded? Why not the rest of the housing, or the inside of it, or even all inside the engine bay where coolant stagnated for god knows how long?
 

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I'm having a similar problem with a 2009 sonata (6 cylinder). Coolant is leaking out of the top hose. The dealer charged me $115 to tell me I just need a new hose. Does anyone think this is accurate? Would this begin leaking if all I need is a new hose? Also, another symptom is that cooler air (rather than warm air) blows out when sitting idle.
I'm thinking it's time for a new thermostat. Any other ideas?
 

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I'm having a similar problem with a 2009 sonata (6 cylinder). Coolant is leaking out of the top hose. The dealer charged me $115 to tell me I just need a new hose. Does anyone think this is accurate? Would this begin leaking if all I need is a new hose? Also, another symptom is that cooler air (rather than warm air) blows out when sitting idle.
I'm thinking it's time for a new thermostat. Any other ideas?
Cooler air at idle is probably low coolant level. The radiator should be full to the top when the engine is dead cold.

And I bet the hose needs a new clamp. Probably nothing wrong with the hose unless you have 150k miles or so.
 

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Cooler air at idle is probably low coolant level. The radiator should be full to the top when the engine is dead cold.

And I bet the hose needs a new clamp. Probably nothing wrong with the hose unless you have 150k miles or so.
3.3L will corrode both the upper and lower fitting.. that why we need to keep clean fresh coolant every other yr / 30,000 mile tops..

Seep out enough coolant over time, and we will be low in the main system, and end up with air in heat core (warm at speed,, cold at idle)
 

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2007 sonata 4 cyl
Coolant leak at hose connection to thermostat cover. Disassembled to clean up and reattach which led me to notice ghat the metal that makes contact with the hose is pretty chewed up. I don't know if it's this way because of the leak or if it leaks because of the corrosion but regardless , what I thought would be an afternoon job of replacing the clamp and cleaning up the leak now has the car out of commission until I can get it replaced.
Problem is I am unable to find the correct part online. Only thing I'm finding is this used part on eBay https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.com/ulk/itm/131905990872 which seems to he in the same condition as mine
I'm also being directed to the model for 6 cyls. Anybody have to replace one of these before?
Same problem on my Santa Fe. I had to replace both of them. I got one from Rockauto and had to buy OEM for the other one. Even that did not go well. The online Hyundai dealer I used, never told me that my old one, that sealed with an O ring was superceded with one that sealed with a flat gasket. I had already bought a new O ring from Rockauto and had to chase around for several hours to find the right gasket. Fortunately, Felpro makes one and I finally got it from AutoZone. I first tried sanding out the corroded spots on the old ones but gave up and just replaced them.

Sent from my SM-G900V using Tapatalk
 

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Discussion Starter #19
For those who have the corroded t-stat cover have you ever changed your coolant in the past?
Embarrassingly, it has only been flushed out once about two years ago.

Does anyone know if there's a gasket for the cover? I didn't see traces of one when removing but I can't imagine the harm of putting one in or even a bead of gasket maker.
 
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