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Discussion Starter #1
:( I hoped i wouldn't have to post here so soon...



2002 Santa Fe V6, 140k miles.
I got it about a month ago

The Story
While running an errand for work today my new-to-me Santa Fe gave up.
After about a 15 minute ride on the freeway (no prob) then a few more miles to my destination, while turning onto the side street it seemed to lose power. It would still go, but seemed to hesitate.

I reached my destination, picked up my stuff, and started to head back to work now with fingers crossed... A couple of hundred feet and there was clearly something wrong. Couldn't get it to go over 15-20mph. Pulled over... idle was low and then stalled. It started back up but didn't really want to stay running. Revving it only caused the occasional cough and then nada.

Not sure about engine codes as the CE light was already on from the fuel cap (again). Dis/Re-connected the battery.. cleared the light but still barely ran and then not. The CE light didn't come back on though. Under the hood the engine seemed a bit hotter than normal operating temp but I couldn't be sure. The gauge indicated an ok temp.

After about an hour and a half of waiting, and then a ride on the tow truck back to my work place....
Now it starts up and seems like normal. A quick ride around the parking lot seems fine but I'm not sure I want to take it on the road.

I would like to make it (26 miles) home this evening (my tools are at home)... but uhhh...
well... that might make two tow truck rides today. :(
Still not sure if I should try that. The neighborhoods around here are "iffy".


The FIX
Well I don't know yet but I do like my Santa Fe and I plan on figuring it out and fixing it. (really hoping for something simple)

And I might as well track it in this thread for help... and to help others.

From what I've read in other threads so far here...
I guess I can start with beating on the Catalytic Converter a little bit as it could be clogged.

And of course .. it may be the Crank Position Sensor right?
 

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I'd look at the crank sensor first. Since it started running better once the engine cooled down some, the sensor likely shrank back down and the electronics in the sensor probably resembled the proper amount of resistance again. I had a Grand Am that would buck like a bronco once it came up to operating temps, the spark control module didn't like the heat at all.
 

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:( I hoped i wouldn't have to post here so soon...



2002 Santa Fe V6, 140k miles.
I got it about a month ago

The Story
While running an errand for work today my new-to-me Santa Fe gave up.
After about a 15 minute ride on the freeway (no prob) then a few more miles to my destination, while turning onto the side street it seemed to lose power. It would still go, but seemed to hesitate.

I reached my destination, picked up my stuff, and started to head back to work now with fingers crossed... A couple of hundred feet and there was clearly something wrong. Couldn't get it to go over 15-20mph. Pulled over... idle was low and then stalled. It started back up but didn't really want to stay running. Revving it only caused the occasional cough and then nada.

Not sure about engine codes as the CE light was already on from the fuel cap (again). Dis/Re-connected the battery.. cleared the light but still barely ran and then not. The CE light didn't come back on though. Under the hood the engine seemed a bit hotter than normal operating temp but I couldn't be sure. The gauge indicated an ok temp.

After about an hour and a half of waiting, and then a ride on the tow truck back to my work place....
Now it starts up and seems like normal. A quick ride around the parking lot seems fine but I'm not sure I want to take it on the road.

I would like to make it (26 miles) home this evening (my tools are at home)... but uhhh...
well... that might make two tow truck rides today. :(
Still not sure if I should try that. The neighborhoods around here are "iffy".


The FIX
Well I don't know yet but I do like my Santa Fe and I plan on figuring it out and fixing it. (really hoping for something simple)

And I might as well track it in this thread for help... and to help others.

From what I've read in other threads so far here...
I guess I can start with beating on the Catalytic Converter a little bit as it could be clogged.

And of course .. it may be the Crank Position Sensor right?
It could very well be the CPS. Your car is old enough for it to go bad. If you have a 2.7, it's right above your starter and you can replace it yourself. Since you just bought your car, whoever sold it to you could have been having trouble for some time. These CPS failures cause all kinds of trouble, but restarting after a cool down is not unheard of.
 

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I'd start with a new CPS as well. SBR711, our resident Hyundai tech, says that these may as well be a regular maintenance part they go bad so often. Good news is that they are cheap and easy to replace on the 2.7L.

One piece of advice I would give you after having changed mine is to drop the starter and don't try and work around it. I tried to work around it and broke the old CPS off in the block. Wound up having to push it through and drop the oil pan. All because I was trying to save 5-10 minutes.
 

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I'd start with a new CPS as well. SBR711, our resident Hyundai tech, says that these may as well be a regular maintenance part they go bad so often. Good news is that they are cheap and easy to replace on the 2.7L.

One piece of advice I would give you after having changed mine is to drop the starter and don't try and work around it. I tried to work around it and broke the old CPS off in the block. Wound up having to push it through and drop the oil pan. All because I was trying to save 5-10 minutes.
As one who didn't pull the starter, I have to ask how it broke. Was it after you managed to get out the bolt holding it in or after. For me it was the narrowness of the clearance of the 10MM bolt. If I hadn't used a 1/4 inch drive- I don't think I could have got it out.
 

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As one who didn't pull the starter, I have to ask how it broke. Was it after you managed to get out the bolt holding it in or after. For me it was the narrowness of the clearance of the 10MM bolt. If I hadn't used a 1/4 inch drive- I don't think I could have got it out.
I'm the only person I have ever seen that broke one.

I had removed the bolt and expected it to pull right out but it was stuck in the block. Due to a lack of space with the starter in the way I managed to break it while wiggling it. Pretty fluky as I wasn't exactly He-Manning it or anything.

I guess proper advice would be more along the lines of: "If the CPS does not pull right out after the bolt is removed then drop the starter to give yourself more working room".
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks for all the replies..

Update.
Confirmed the problem... After letting the vehicle rest for a day it started right up again and revved fine. Drove about 100' fine. Parked and idled. Within minutes it stalled and would not restart.

I ordered the part... I'm picking it up this afternoon.
I found this document which seems pretty clear on the process...
http://www.myhyundaiforums.com/TSB/xml/03-01-001-01.swf
 

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It is a VERY straightforward process. You'll probably be done in under 30 minutes with a basic set of sockets/wrenches.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Halfway through...

Yes it's straight forward sort of.
It is in such a tight space.
It was hard enough just to get the bolt out..
I found quite a bit more difficulty in pulling out the old sensor.
When I finally got it out I saw that the tip it had broken off...
(or I broke it... very brittle plastic)
ugh...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Other threads mention just pushing the remaining bits into the engine to be retrieved via the oil pan.

Is that right?
 

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Other threads mention just pushing the remaining bits into the engine to be retrieved via the oil pan.

Is that right?
This is almost exactly what happened to me, except mine broke off much closer to the base. I screwed around for about an hour trying to get the broken part out but eventually gave up and just pushed it into the block then dropped the oil pan to retrieve it. Removing the oil pain is a bit of a pain due to two or three bolts being blocked by the exhaust but easily doable with a 10mm wrench and ratchet/socket. I would have a new gasket on hand as well as some ULTRA BLACK RTV.

If you're worried about something screwing up your engine don't be. There is a mesh filter on the pickup tube that will block any major pieces from being picked up and any small pieces should be carried away when you drain the oil. You'll see the screen when/if you drop the pan. If you're feeling particularly lucky you may even get all the parts out just by draining the oil. Depends on how big the broken piece(s) is/are.

Good Luck!
 

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^^^ I thought the same thing...lol... it is only the very tip and should come out drain hole.... but make sure by using a open pan when draining and wearing gloves feel around for the pieces to retrieve them.
 

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^^^ I thought the same thing...lol... it is only the very tip and should come out drain hole.... but make sure by using a open pan when draining and wearing gloves feel around for the pieces to retrieve them.
I vaguely remember that someone just left the leftover CPS part in the oil pan and didn't have any further problems.
 

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I could see that, but I'm always overly cautious... I rather prevent than risk.... I'm sure it probably wouldn't hurt since oil pickup does have a screen
 

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Discussion Starter #15 (Edited)
Finally got it done today... I can see how it is a simple job but for me it took a bit of time. In that I'm working on it in the parking lot at work. A little rain... and talk about a tight squeeze!
One tool I found that made things a lot easier was an inspection mirror.


Anyway ... after getting the new one put in and buttoning things up. I was happy that it started right up. Drove around the lot twice feeling good and powerful.
And then just stalled and wouldn't start. :( ...again.

So it appears the CKP was not the problem.
I guess my next step then would be the CC...?
My bro suggested drilling some holes in the bottom of it. Which happens to be right in my price range.

Ahhh well... I'll be searching some threads here and now on that... :p
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Update... a couple of hours later...
So I pulled off the engine cover... all the lines and connections look ok with a quick inspection. Considered pulling the plugs but boo... the proper socket is back at home. :(

Thought I'd try to start it and it started. :mellow:
Revved it like before and like before it seemed fine.
Started taking some video as maybe a clue could be seen or heard at the point that it stalls... :eek:
5 minutes .... 8 minutes ... 10 minutes! ... Still running! :mellow:
Drove it around the lot a few times, let it idle, drove it around the lot a few more times, let it idle... almost 20 minutes running and everything seems fine now.
Turned it off... put all the covers back on.
Tested again as above and ... seems ok.
:rolleyes:

Now I wonder... should I try and at least drive it home?

Yeah I suppose... it's only 26 miles... :unsure:
 

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MY CPS replacement went just like TXMAG's. Unbolt, wiggle, snap off. I guess it was so fragile from the block heat it wouldn't stay in one piece. In my attempt to extract the remaining piece it went backwards into the motor. I never retrieved it and luckily didn't have any problems. btw the CPS often fails due to the insulation breakdown/shorting of the wires.

In your case Vincent, that was a good educated guess to replace that part, however I would suggest a OBDII code read to diagnose.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Well... I made it home. :)

That's a big relief.

It seemed to run fine the whole way. hmmm.. okay

Thanks for all the feedback.

Cheers, Vincent
 

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RE: POS Santa Fe problems

Ya, I have one too...every day it's worryful driving...lol
HEY, check your fuel pressure regulator...it's at the end of the fuel rail, and has a rubber vacuum line that goes to a nipple on the intake....
pull the line off with the engine running and see if fuel comes out of the nipple on the regulator side...if fuel comes out, regulator is bad....possibly could be intermittent so if it starts running rough do that real quick. It causes three problems, vacuum leak, low fuel pressure, unmetered fuel into engine AFTER the throttle body so it will run rich.
BTW it won't throw a code...I found it by trying to figure out what the car was doing and scouring the forums until I found that little nugget of truth....$35 on Amazon vs. thousands at dealer when all they will do is scratch their heads as much as I do....I'll take the $35....
I have also changed the timing belt, spark plugs, PS pump, leaking PS pressure line...alternator is next, it's making some god awful noise.

PS - If I EVER meet a Hyundai engineer, I'm gonna beat the **** out of them....
 

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Our POS has been running ok after I fixed the FPR, but lately it intermittently idles rough and a couple times has stalled while sitting at a stop light....started right back up though...wondering did my cheap FPR start taking a poop already?
I also have changed the waterpump. We got halfway to LA from Vegas (before we moved to FL) and it started puking water. We made it back home, got a new timing belt and waterpump. Belt has to come off to change pump...so change it while you can....
Also, our AC took a crap...all the coolant leaked out, thought it was the Evaporator, pulled it, checked it, nope....ugh!:mad::mad: THATS not a fun job. So our AC system is dry, the fan blower resistor controller AND the fan speed control switch BOTH screwed up.....**** car...lol
Have any of you ever changed the blower speed switch/knob from the center console? I know where to get a new switch, but getting the old one out of the cluster....any thoughts? thanks.
 
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