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Discussion Starter #1
Hello!

Probably ought to start by saying I'm not mechanically minded, so bear with me for any stupid questions.

I've recently bought a 2004 2.9 CRDi auto Terracan in a private sale. About a week or so after I bought I had a problem with the cooling system when a pipe wore through - I took it to my mechanic who patched it up, ordered a new pipe and got me back on the road - but as we were leaving they asked me if it 'cut out often'. I hadn't noticed it doing anything of the sort, but they then asked if it sometimes juddered or shook when idling - which I had noticed it doing once or twice.

Apparently during testing it had cut out and the engine light had come on, and had given an error of cylinder 1 & 3 injector circuit open and something about the input measure valve. They cleared the fault but said it was switching between hi & low power mode & that it seemed to jump between all cylinders and 2 a few times. Put fuel cleaner through it to see if that worked and told me to watch out for puffs of smoke & see how it was running.

That was a few days ago, and while it seemed to run better for a short while after the cleaner, it now seems to be in low power mode more than high, and is definitely puffing out little bits of (darkish) smoke when I accelerate. :( Am kicking myself as I suspect it probably did this when I bought it but I didn't realise the 'chuggy' sounding engine wasn't meant to be that chuggy - so I feel like rather a gullible fool, and having just forked out for a poorly car. Rather gutted as even with a lumpy running engine I really like driving the car, and this was supposed to be my treat to me to tow my horsebox, but I wont be hitching anything up to it if the engine isn't fully trustworthy.

I will be taking it back tomorrow to report on my findings and book it in to get it fully investigated, but wondered if anyone else had encountered similar symptoms and what the cause turned out to be. I've also encountered a couple of 'sticky' steering moments this last two days where the wheel seems to freeze slightly (once at full lock, causing the brakes to jump) and once when reversing, when a bit of wheel wigging freed it up quickly and then it was all fine.

Does this sound like I've bought a total dud? :crying2:
 

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Is this a permanent 4wd or part time (In Australia there was a Highlander model which was permanent and standard which was part-time)

The difference was 'Standard' has a 2H/4H/4L knob and 'permanent' 4WD just has 4H/4L knob.
Driving a standard car in 4wd on normal road surfaces will cause the 'jumping' you describe. Car is not designed to do it and it can cause serious drivetrain damage.

Engine misfire could be something as simple as a bad injector wiring loom.
An easy fix for very little money (about US$50 for the part)


(my posts on this thread under 'keithyv')
Transient rough running episode - CRDI Engine - Australia4WD Forum

Good luck!
 

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Does this sound like I've bought a total dud?
It's a bit early to say yet, to be honest. Having these troubles so soon after buying the car does make you wonder if the previous owner was passing on his troubles on to someone else. But let's see what the garage find during their investigation.

Something you should maybe make your garage aware of though....
The trouble codes for injectors can be a little misleading on the 2.9CRDi engine because the code relates to the injection sequence not the actual cylinder the injectors are fitted to on the engine. For example, a P0203 code means there is a problem with injector 3, but injector 3 is actually fitted to cylinder 4 on the engine because the engine's firing order is 1342...cylinder 4 is the 3rd cylinder to have fuel injected.

P0201 relates to cylinder 1 injector
P0202 relates to cylinder 3 injector
P0203 relates to cylinder 4 injector
P0204 relates to cylinder 2 injector
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Thanks all. It's a part time 4WD and this is running in 2H mode. No 4WD light on the dash so I don't think its running in the wrong mode. Now I think of it though I did have to put it into 4H mode once when I misjudged a turning onto a rough track and then had to back it up a rather slippy hill to stop me going into a ditch. When I did that the check engine light and the ABS light came on and my handbrake light stuck on, but I put that down to my having just whacked it into 4H mode with full steering lock on while wrestling with the brakes trying to stop it skidding off into a ditch. Once I got out of the sticky spot popped it back into 2H and restarted the engine and all the warning lights went off again. I've had it in 4H mode since then (switched in running straight) and I've never been able to replicate the fault, so I had put it down to poor driving on my part sort of put that incident out of my mind until now. I'll mention it to the mechanic when it goes in on Monday.
Thanks for the heads up on the codes, I'll pass it on to the guys too. They seemed to be fairly familiar with the engine as they get a lot of Kia Sorentos around here - does that one fire in the same way too, or are Terracans different from other CRDis?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Still running in limp mode at the moment. The guys at the garage had a good hawk about, checked all injectors and cleaned the connectors to see if it was a faulty connection. They say it looks like it's had a full set of replacement injectors in the not too distant past (their exact comment was 'someone has spent a lot of money on this') - so that reinforces my feeling that the previous owner was aware of the problem, but hadn't been able to fix it. We've decided to try replacing the brake pedal switch just to see if it might be that that is sending the engine into low power mode, as it's a known problem and a cheap fix. If that doesn't work, it's back to the drawing board...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Not yet, waiting for the brake switch part to arrive. Terry is still currently running, all be it in a lumpy, chuggy kind of way. Hope the brake switch fixes it or we will be back to scratching our heads (and in my case, alternately swearing and crying while I stare at the increasingly large terracan shaped hole in my bank balance)...
 

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I'm having the same issue.
Popped a new fuel filter on and threw 2 bottles of Redex Diesel in the tank.
Didn't work.
Runs great until you try to accelerate hard, then starts to kangaroo.
First indication something was wrong started with engine warning light at speed, under load and going uphill.
My port of call this weekend will be the brake light switch.
In the meantime, I'm doing my daily 50 mile round trip at a very sedate pace.
Quite refreshing.
 

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Have the reverse lights switch to change too if I can find it.
Fitted a reverse camera thinking it was just blown bulbs.
You know what thought did.......
 

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Discussion Starter #10 (Edited)
Funnily enough, I am not getting any issues with loss of power or pull when driving, it's just the lumpy idle that gives away that something is not right. Of course, I've only had the car a few weeks, so for all I know it is not pulling as strongly as it ought to be, but it seems to be getting about fine. Brake switched arrived today so they're fitting it tomorrow. Will see if that sorts it. I'm hoping, but not particularly hopeful, if that makes sense. I can't see how the brake switch problem would only affect it in idle and not cause a power drop when the car is moving? Still, it's a quick cheap fix for a common fault, so I might as well start there before I end up replacing more expensive bits!

* I should add - I don't do any really hard accelerating (I've never tried flooring it to see what would happen!) and I've not driven it under load uphill. It copes fine uphill by itself with just me in the car - but that's the most it really ever does! I'm a fairly sedate driver normally anyway!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
So, it's not the brake switch.

Today its throwing new error codes, and to cap it all off, it's got a blown head gasket.

The mechanic has a feeling it's just 'one of those cars' where you could spend a small fortune fixing it and still not get to the bottom of what is ailing it. I've got to decide if I want to fork out another few grand on getting to the bottom of what ails it now, or cut my losses. It's got MOT til October, so I could keep driving it til then and then worry about what to do with it after (it'll not get through an MOT in the state its in) or I could sell it on to someone who can fix it up themselves and keep it going.

Bit gutted, it's such a nice car to drive and I was looking forward to having it as my towing car, but I can't really put my horse behind it now knowing how many problems its got...

Anyone in the UK (Scotland) fancy a Terry as a fixer-upper??
 

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Just a thought.

Would unplugging the said switch immediately stop the problem.......apart from the fact I would have no brake lights?

If so, could this be a way of testing prior to spending £15.00 on a switch which may or may not work?
 

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Would unplugging the said switch immediately stop the problem.......apart from the fact I would have no brake lights?
No, I don't think that wouldn't really help.

There are two brake light switches combined in the one housing. One switch has normally open contacts that close when you press the pedal. This is the side of the switch that supplies power to the brake lights. The other switch has normally closed contacts that open when you press the pedal. If you just disconnect the switch this circuit is going to be open, just like when the brake pedal is being pressed which is what you don't want.
 

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Here's a crazy idea....why not just test the switch to determine if it's faulty or not before you buy a new one. You'd really need to test it anyway to know what terminals on the connector to loop.
 

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So £15 down, it's not the switch. Booked into garage Tuesday
Nothing showing on cheap OBDII scanner in the way of faults.
Funny thing is, when stationary will rev happily right through the range and hold the revs too. Only problems when on the move.
 

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So £15 down, it's not the switch. Booked into garage Tuesday
Nothing showing on cheap OBDII scanner in the way of faults.
Funny thing is, when stationary will rev happily right through the range and hold the revs too. Only problems when on the move.
No, the cheap ones do not pick up fault codes on a Terracan. You need a 'proper' OBD scanner..
 

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Turned out it was the Air Mass Flow Sensor.

All sorted and car running fine now, but garage did point out my catalytic convertor was shot.

Ordered a new one, and will be fitted when it arrives.
 
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