Hyundai Forums banner
1 - 7 of 7 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
237 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I have a 2013 YF turbo limited. I was having some clunk sounds going over bumps from the front so I ordered some sway bar end links as they had failed before.


I made the discovery that there are two types of end links.
270mm and 321mm (10.64" and 12.64"). If you plan to order some measure yours first. I now have to return my parts and get new ones, it seems there is a subset called "sonata SE" that has the 270mm.


Though I did discover as well as my end links, my outer tie rod end is loose causing the wheel to wiggle sometimes. Dealer wanted $650 to replace... rockauto was less then $70 in parts.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
167 Posts
There are swaybar links destined for an SE, Limited and GLS. A measurement and an actual photo of your current part will be a great reference when ordering a replacement part. Mevotech brand is good quality as they are releasable.

Recently replaced my inner and outer tie rods and rear swaybar links, where I got all the parts from Rock Auto. All of them are Mevotech brand.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
237 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I got Beck/Arnley from RA, Mevotech was more expensive. I just replaced the left tie rod end.. clunk is gone now. alignment at the dealer is next just in case.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,340 Posts
Any time you replace or remove a tie rod end you need an alignment.
No way you can get it back to the exact degree amount just eyeballing it.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,552 Posts
Any time you replace or remove a tie rod end you need an alignment.
No way you can get it back to the exact degree amount just eyeballing it.
as long as you rotate the outer tie rod off the inner tie rod without disturbing the adjustment lock nut on the inner your good to go. Did both front that way. Put car on alignment rack, still in the green. As long as the parts are IDENTICAL.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
237 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
That is what I did... I marked the original locations on cardboard, then counted the amount of spins (14 in my case) to remove it and use the same around to put it back. Cardboard measurements match. The replacement part looked the same as the old.. but I'll get an alignment just in case.
Had to use a blow torch to get the tie rod off, the lock nut turned with some grunt work but the tie rod would not budge without heat.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,340 Posts
Since your old pieces were rally stuck on there, did you coat the threads of the new parts with anti-seize so that wouldn't happen again?
 
1 - 7 of 7 Posts
This is an older thread, you may not receive a response, and could be reviving an old thread. Please consider creating a new thread.
Top