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I have a 2007 Santa Fe with high milage that recently developed a rattle on start from cold. The rattle goes away after about 5 seconds. I am suspecting a bad timing chain tensioner but not 100% sure. When I did a fresh oil change and new filter, the noise went away for a few days, but gradually came back. Based on some things I've read here on the forum, this behavior leads me to believe that the issue may be the filer and oil I used (Moble 1 filter and synthetic oil). I've read here that there can be a problem with seem filters that allow oil to drain back into the pan, causing some oil starvation on initial start up.

Just hoping someone who has experienced this issue can provide some insight into where a different filter and oil type would be in order and worth trying? It's the fact that the noise went away for a short time when I did an oil change.

Any suggestions before I spend $1200 o replace the tensioner?

Thanks in advance.
 

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If you hear chain slap from that side of the engine the tensioner will be your problem. That tensioner has a ratchet type devise that holds the tensioner during off period. The notches get stripped and no more hold.
Look on Youtube and you'll find videos on this problem and fixes.
The filter is to hold oil in the top to keep the valve train from dry start.
 

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Please help us help you. Go to your profile and fill in all fields shown with a pencil icon. We know nothing about the car so it's hard to make suggestions. The information you supply will come up in the left margin below your user name.


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Discussion Starter #4
If you hear chain slap from that side of the engine the tensioner will be your problem. That tensioner has a ratchet type devise that holds the tensioner during off period. The notches get stripped and no more hold.
Look on Youtube and you'll find videos on this problem and fixes.
The filter is to hold oil in the top to keep the valve train from dry start.
Thanks for the info. I did look on YouTube and the only video I could find related to this was a short video of the engine already out and the guy saying that in order to get the taming chain cover off to change the tensioner you must drop the motor. Yikes! If someone knows of an easier way, I'd love to know!
 

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Please help us help you. Go to your profile and fill in all fields shown with a pencil icon. We know nothing about the car so it's hard to make suggestions. The information you supply will come up in the left margin below your user name.


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Done!
 

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Thanks for the info. I did look on YouTube and the only video I could find related to this was a short video of the engine already out and the guy saying that in order to get the taming chain cover off to change the tensioner you must drop the motor. Yikes! If someone knows of an easier way, I'd love to know!
I think that you should be able to access it by taking apart some of the suspension components on the passenger front. I asked a technician to confirm and he said if your tensioner is located on that side of the block then it is possible to do it through the passenger front wheel area instead of having to drop all the suspension and the block itself.
 

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Thanks for the info. I did look on YouTube and the only video I could find related to this was a short video of the engine already out and the guy saying that in order to get the taming chain cover off to change the tensioner you must drop the motor. Yikes! If someone knows of an easier way, I'd love to know!
We did a few timing chains and tensioners on Hyundia. Not sure any were your exact vehicle but I've never seen one that couldn't be done in vehicle.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
I think that you should be able to access it by taking apart some of the suspension components on the passenger front. I asked a technician to confirm and he said if your tensioner is located on that side of the block then it is possible to do it through the passenger front wheel area instead of having to drop all the suspension and the block itself.
That would be great if possible. With I could find a video on this somewhere.
 

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If you would like a step by step you can order a year or 5 years here. This is professional level and covers the entire vehicle for most anything you'll come across.

http://www.alldatadiy.com/
 

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3.3 in a CM chassis is done with engine in place.. pretty easy job..

Most all should have been updated yrs ago,, there was a time when we had them lined up for tensioners..

This late in game, may as well do tensioners, rails, chains, water pump,,, you have it apart already..

Send me VIN and what it for (timing chain claim)

Do plugs, thermostat, and maybe hoses..

Have part dept person use TSB to get all your needed seals and stuff per Hyundai instruction,, add the water hose in valley that attach to nipple on chain cover to pipe in valley,,

 

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Discussion Starter #12
3.3 in a CM chassis is done with engine in place.. pretty easy job..

Most all should have been updated yrs ago,, there was a time when we had them lined up for tensioners..

This late in game, may as well do tensioners, rails, chains, water pump,,, you have it apart already..

Send me VIN and what it for (timing chain claim)

Do plugs, thermostat, and maybe hoses..

Have part dept person use TSB to get all your needed seals and stuff per Hyundai instruction,, add the water hose in valley that attach to nipple on chain cover to pipe in valley,,

Thanks much! I'll PM you the VIN. If This can be done with engine in pace then I'm willing to tackle the job. You're right too, at this stage, with 262k miles I will replace everything including the water pump (which it's amazing it hasn't failed yet).

Check your Pms for the VIN!
 

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You can do this with jack and stand. May need 2-4 days if you do the work at home. The new chain tensioners must be OEM only.
 

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Thanks! I will make sure I get the OEM parts. Also, I registered on http://www.alldatadiy.com/ and they have very good, details instructions - it does look like it's going to take a few days.
It's a bit intimidating if you've not done this kind of tear down before. Take your time and you'll be OK.
 

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I also have 2007 3.3 with a 4-5 second rattling at start-up. It's been doing it for months but it seems to be worse now. A couple days ago I put in a Hyundai brand oil filter and synthetic oil (Motomater Formula1) but no change.

A year ago, it went in for a valve cover gasket recall. The dealer said the timing cover needs a reseal because it is leaking oil. I was quoted 2 days and $1472 CDN but I haven't fixed it yet as I have been re-adding oil once in a while.

If my timing chain tensioner needs to be changed (might as well change water pump) then the oil leak from the timing belt cover can be fixed at the same time? I plan to pay a mechanic after hours to do it rather than myself. :D

Here is a youtube link of the noise: youtu.be/iy3W9N_C5Ws


Thanks!
Rice
 

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I also have 2007 3.3 with a 4-5 second rattling at start-up. It's been doing it for months but it seems to be worse now. A couple days ago I put in a Hyundai brand oil filter and synthetic oil (Motomater Formula1) but no change.

Here is a youtube link of the noise: youtu.be/iy3W9N_C5Ws


Thanks!
Rice
I think it's tensioner problem. When the chains are too loose they may hit the cover and making noise. When oil pressure is up after a while the tensioner back to proper tension and noise gone. There are some articles about 3.3l damaged cover done by chain. Usually leaking tensioner is not a big deal since the oil pressure can push back, but you don't want the chain to hit the cover too often and may break one day.

You can ask mechanics to pay attention to valve cover leak. You have to remove the cover anyway to replace tensioner, just add more sealant on the gap and that will fix it.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
I think it's tensioner problem. When the chains are too loose they may hit the cover and making noise. When oil pressure is up after a while the tensioner back to proper tension and noise gone. There are some articles about 3.3l damaged cover done by chain. Usually leaking tensioner is not a big deal since the oil pressure can push back, but you don't want the chain to hit the cover too often and may break one day.

You can ask mechanics to pay attention to valve cover leak. You have to remove the cover anyway to replace tensioner, just add more sealant on the gap and that will fix it.
On my 2007 3.3 I am going to attempt the tensioner repair myself only because there is a way to do it without dropping the motor. It is an involved process but doesn't look like it's beyond my capabilities. I will probably change the tensioner AND the guides while I'm in there and also the Water pump and any pulleys that feel light they have rough bearings. "May" change the chain as well.
 

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On my 2007 3.3 I am going to attempt the tensioner repair myself only because there is a way to do it without dropping the motor. It is an involved process but doesn't look like it's beyond my capabilities. I will probably change the tensioner AND the guides while I'm in there and also the Water pump and any pulleys that feel light they have rough bearings. "May" change the chain as well.
you should replace the chain as well, because when you remove the tensioners and guide, the chain will 100% jump
 

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I hope I'm not thread-jacking here, but how sure are you/did you find out for sure if it is the tensioner? I have the same symptoms and I'm wondering if it's possibly for oil leaking from pressure switch to have any effect (I don't know enough about how the engine is built to know whether is is even possible.) Anyway, I replaced the oil pressure switch but during reassembly the fuel rail started leaking, so now I'm out $300 for that.
Also, I took the car in since it's still under warranty and the mechanic said the noise is coming from the camshaft phaser area but he needs to do a pressure test to be sure. If you read my other post, you'll see that I don't have a lot of confidence in this mechanic. Thoughts on his diagnosis?
 
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