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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
When I hit the button on the door, or remote, the doors lock but the lock sound doesn't play and the dome lights don't go out. However, if i hit the lock button on the remote lots of times real fast, it locks the car normally... with the sound playing and the dome lights going out. Anyone else experience this? I have recently replaced the battery in the car, and both batteries in the remotes. The problem still persists.
 

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Discussion Starter · #2 ·
so on a whim, i decided to replace all the door pin switches and the hood pin, thinking if one was bad, it would think a door was left open. Those were special order and i just received them last week. Put them in last tuesday and everything was working perfect... until today. Now the problem is back. I just don't understand what it could be. I'm out of warranty, so i'd rather not have to go to the dealer. Anyone have any other ideas what i should check?
 

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maybe one of the wires is shorting out? Damaging the switch you had and the new one. Time to use that multimeter....
 

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I agree. Replacing the pin switches on the doors may have moved the wires enough to fix it for a while
Then after much opening and closing, the issue is back.
Would check the wiring ....
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Interesting... i'll have to check that. Oddly enough, started working again today. This car has always had some strange issues. Easy access wheel and seat don't always work, auto tilt mirrors sometimes get stuck in the down position, the rear sunshade goes up on its own when the car is off, etc. Those don't bother me that much, but the car no locking does. When i lock from the remote, not the door button, there will be no lock sound also, but it sounds like the doors lock. You to open the drivers door and it is locked, but the rear doors are not. And thats even after hitting the lock button on the remote a bunch of times.

It was my father's company car, when he retired, i "bought" it off his company as a daily driver. He dealt with all these issues because the dealer "could never find anything wrong". My history in working with car stereos and alarms tells me that there is definitely something wrong.
 

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Wiring harness problems

Some years ago, I owned a 1993 Lexus LS400. After several years, it started having numerous electrical problems involving completely different electrical components. Strange lights would illuminate on the dash display, braking had a weird feel, trunk would not open, etc. I researched the problem on a Lexus forum and found that numerous other LS400 owners were having the same problem.


The problem involved a ground wire that passed from the front of the car into the trunk area. The problem wire (white as I remember) was part of a harness that contained numerous different wires. This particular wire was too short and was stressed when the trunk was opened and closed. Eventually, the wire broke, and the problems then started. I stripped off the wire insulation, inserted a short length of new wire, taped it up, and the problem was solved.


The early LS400's were excellent cars, but it was very rare that anyone who owned one did not have problems involving the dash display and electrical problems caused by this particular ground wire.
 

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All those switches do is ground to the body when the door is open. That should feed back to the BCM. The BCM should then do what you think it should do.

I'd be finding the BCM and reseating the connectors.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Some years ago, I owned a 1993 Lexus LS400. After several years, it started having numerous electrical problems involving completely different electrical components. Strange lights would illuminate on the dash display, braking had a weird feel, trunk would not open, etc. I researched the problem on a Lexus forum and found that numerous other LS400 owners were having the same problem.


The problem involved a ground wire that passed from the front of the car into the trunk area. The problem wire (white as I remember) was part of a harness that contained numerous different wires. This particular wire was too short and was stressed when the trunk was opened and closed. Eventually, the wire broke, and the problems then started. I stripped off the wire insulation, inserted a short length of new wire, taped it up, and the problem was solved.


The early LS400's were excellent cars, but it was very rare that anyone who owned one did not have problems involving the dash display and electrical problems caused by this particular ground wire.
Thats an interesting issue.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
All those switches do is ground to the body when the door is open. That should feed back to the BCM. The BCM should then do what you think it should do.

I'd be finding the BCM and reseating the connectors.
Thats a simple thing to try, the BCM is the fuse box on the driver's side. The fact that this car has had so many intermittent issues over the years, i'm wondering if one of these connectors wasn't seated properly from the factory.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 · (Edited)
Finally figured this out. So dumb. The actuator for the rear drivers side door is going bad. It will always unlock, but most the time it doesn't lock all the way. That prevents the car from "arming" properly. Should be a simple enough fix once i get a new lock assembly. But wow that part is expensive!
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 · (Edited)
Should only be about $75-100.
Sadly it's $250. The best price i found was $166 from HyundaiPartsDeal.com. It seems like it's only sold as the assembly, with cables and all. Probably not a bad thing to replace the cables while in there anyway.

this is the part number: 81410-3V000
 

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better prices than that on ebay from direct south korean resellers.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 · (Edited)
better prices than that on ebay from direct south korean resellers.
i saw a few that come out to just around $100, but delivery is a month out.
Not sure a few bucks is worth the risk of parking unlocked in Baltimore City everyday . :|

You also have to be careful. when i search that part number on eBay, it returns results with similar part numbers for different cars. not sure they're compatible. There's very few options for the Azera.
 

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good point. Maybe, if you have the time, try to salvage one?
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
good point. Maybe, if you have the time, try to salvage one?
I went with the new one for $166. I thought about used/salvaged, but it's a ton of work to swap it out. So, going with new increases my chances of the good working part that should last a while.
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
So I finally was able to install the new actuator on Saturday, what a pain in the a$$! But everything works as it should, so I’m extremely happy.

Thanks everyone for your help on figuring this whole thing out!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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