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I was driving my Accent yesterday when suddenly it shuttered and stopped accelerating, it was still on because my RPM gauge would move when I hit the gas, when I went to pull over it was very difficult almost as if my power steering was not working. Now that it is off it will not start, it cranks but will not turn over. We tried a new battery, but that did not work. Any ideas on what it most likely is, I have 109k miles on it. Thanks
 

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i don't even want to know the logic that went on to decide to put in the new battery.

code reader is essential with any modern car. however i think we can still narrow this down a bit.

you said you still had engine RPM's and you lost power to the wheels? was the RPM's smooth? if so i'm going to guess you have a manual transmission. one with a blown clutch.

the power steering loss is interesting though....as well as the not being able to start. that is not an indicator of a bad clutch at all. a slipping or broken belt can be the cause of power steering loss, but not a no start.

plugs, coils, fuel, electrical, relays, even a bad sensor are on the table with this one. i want to hold off until we have those diagnostic codes before saying anything else.
 

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I have been having a similar problem. I have a 2011 accent with 57k miles and at first it would shut off on me while I'm at idle at a light and wouldnt start back up for 10+ minutes. took it to a shop and hooked it up to a code reader. Everything was fine except the crankshaft positioning sensor was giving slightly weird readings and it confused the mechanic and I. Took it home and all was fine. Now it has started shutting off on me while driving and wont start back up for 10+ minutes like something is overheating. It will also occasionally lurk forward and jolt even while in gear on the highway and shut off or go into limp mode. It's at the dealership now and they said they drove it for 7 miles with no problems. Very lost on what is going on.
 

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when it won't start for 10 minutes....disconnect battery and reconnect. just for fun. might reset the logic if its an electronics problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
A new battery was put in because my brother and dad were insistant that I had killed my battery and didn't know what I was talking about when I said everything electrical was fine. Needless to say I was right.

I am going to buy a code reader this week. With the holidays and weather we have not really had time to look at it closely, but we did change the spark plugs and the mechanic who did my tune up back in June put the wrongs ones in and they were pretty bad off. In the process of that we accidently cracked the fuel injector relay so we replaced that too. Still won't turn on.

Any suggestions on a what is the best code reader for Hyundai's?
 

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if it reads the codes, its hard to go wrong. i like one that gives me a description as well but hey thats your choice. you do not need an expensive one.
 

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Only way to find out is to try. Ya got nothing to lose at this point. It probably depends on how long the battery was disconnected when doing the swap. IIRC on code readers there's probably an option to "check stored codes" that were thrown in the past.

I'd say worst case, you'll probably have to tow it to the dealership. Now I'm not 100% sure on this, but generally speaking most major manufacturers have their dealers equipped with specific computer hardware/software that can do more than just a basic OBDII code reader. Specifically, run diagnostics without the engine necessarily working. Plus I would hope think they're better versed in your engine than the hack who put in the wrong spark plugs. Someone correct me if I'm wrong, but could incorrect plugs cause major damage? Like if part of the electrode came off in the piston chamber?

@Meatloaf: Did you actually replace the crankshaft position sensor? Granted it can be a pricey part, but even I've seen where a sensor doesn't quite give off a code yet still operates incorrectly enough to affect the engine. The proof being that once replaced the engine ran just fine.
 

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the codes will be cleared with the changed battery, but if there is a problem (which there is) they will come back soon. wait for the light to come on.
 

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I'm having a similar problem... I have a 2003 Dodge neon and I just got some work done on it. I brought a new powersteering pump and belt, got it put on and proceeded to drive off. The dude said my motor sounded like it was knocking and we scheduled a appointment to get it checked in a week... I drove off and after about 10mins of driving I am taking off from a traffic light my car stops accelerating and I had to pull over on the side of the road. I managed to let the car roll but it would just rev when I hit the gas. I switched gears down still Same thing... I parked and turned it off... now when I try to start it up the starter just spins and the trans trys but it has No connection to the motor side...
 

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I'm having a similar problem... I have a 2003 Dodge neon. I just got a new powersteering pump put on and the dude said he heard some knocking... we scheduled for it it get checked out the next week... so as I'm driving for about 10 mins, I'm taking off from a traffic light and then my car stops accelerating... so I pulled over and let it roll... tried pushing the gas but it just revv so I dropped the gear down and still Same thing... I got it parked and turned it off... tried to start it up but the starter just. Spins and the trans trys but No connection to the motor side at all... help.
 

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i found your problem
:amen: As someone who is constantly fixing my mother's '07 PT Cruiser (a.k.a. PT Looser) I had a good chuckle at your reply. For those that don't know, the PT shares similar design and even has some of the same parts (and therefore problems) as the Neon's. Not to get too off-topic but I am constantly looking to replace the PT with something more reliable and even keeping an eye out for Santa Fe's, Elantras, Tucsons/Sportages, or maybe even Sonata (Tho I've gotta research on the forum here how good the Sonata/Santa Fe drive train is...)

On a serious note, not to be rude, but there are probably dedicated Dodge Neon forums where'd they'd have a better idea what could be the issue.
 

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Temperature can effect the fuel pump relay. Stopping idling then 10 min to restart makes me lean towards this
Swap it out. Then see if this stall problem happens again. A 2011 I doubt its the fuel pump
 

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Next time u loose power steering pop the hood and look at the power steering pulley to see if its spinning. I've heard of the internal parts seizing not allowing the power steering fluid to build up enough pressure to run the steering rack. I've heard also of the belt slipping causing the water pump to slip causing an overheat and am engine shutdown
 

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Did you ever figure this out?? My 2002 Hyundai Sonata did the exact same thing. I was driving, the car stopped accelerating but the engine was still on, and the steering got stiff. I pulled off to the side of the road and turned the car off. Now it won't start (cranks but doesn't turn).
 
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