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Santa Fe CM 2.2 CRDI 4×4 AWD 5 speed Manual:
Instructions for Clutch, Pressure Plate, Dual mass flywheel and throw-out bearing replacement - without a lift.


These instructions assume you will plug things that need plugging from dirt and suspend things that need to be suspended to prevent damage. Label all wires, nuts and bolts so you know where they go. Be very careful, always compare bolt lengths when removing mounts since some of these bolts are longer than others.

This is a heavy car, don’t just use a jack to support the car, use 3 Tonne jack stands. Handbrake and block the wheels, you really do not want it dropping on your face.

It’s a difficult job so don’t start unless you are confident and have the tools mentioned. It’s frustrating, dirty and time consuming. You will be working in cramped positions, with hazardous dust and heavy components. Dirt will be falling in your face and you will probably smash your fingers at least twice.

READ ALL STEPS BEFORE YOU START.


1, remove battery and battery tray

2. remove intercooler

3. put car in neutral then disconnect shift linkage and brackets from top of tranny

4. remove 3 electrical connectors from top of gearbox (label with tape - take photos first).

5. jack up front of car and put on stands. (as high as possible).

6. remove both front wheels

7. remove both brake calipers

8. remove 2 bolts connecting MacPherson strut to wheel hub (easier than removing lower ball joint)

9. remove right intermediate driveshaft support bracket (two bolts)

10. swivel wheel hub out and sideways and remove axle from hub

11. pull right axle out of transfer-case – do not pull on CV joints

12. under car, mark rear-driveshaft and transfer-case output shaft so that when re-installing, they connect in the same place and remain balanced

13. remove driveshaft to transfer-case output shaft bolts, separate the two and secure driveshaft to one side. Remove left driveshaft.

14. use screwdriver to remove the three frontmost rubber exhaust hangers then remove the short exhaust flex section (from below turbo to first under car exhaust box) in order to provide access to transfer-case bolts (you may need to use shock-rust spray and an strong impact wrench).

15. there are 6 bolts holding transfer case to trans axle, you can remove all bolts, the splined shaft will still hold it in place. Using long ratchet socket extensions, remove the lower three bolts and the two upper bolts which you can see. It is too far away and convoluted to reach the location of the last bolt on the top right to place a socket on by hand. You cannot see the bolt, there is too much stuff in the way. Use a mechanics mirror on a stick and long ratchet extension bars with two wobble extensions to place the socket. You need to use wobble socket extensions to remove this bolt.

16. remove the small aluminium protective sheet, which covers some small diameter pressure piping, located just to the right of the transfer case. It is secured in two places, one 10mm bolt and the other a 10mm nut. This plate needs to be removed so you can shift the transfer case far enough right to clear the splined shaft from the trans axle.

17. Pry the transfer-case apart from the trans axle using a large screwdriver or crowbar.

18. When there is about 1cm gap between it and the trans axle, hold the main part of the transfer-case in your right hand and the tail in your left hand then wiggle it towards yourself (if you turn the rear output shaft it will raise or lower the case). Be prepared, after the splined shaft is free of the trans axle, the case will drop if you are not holding it securely. It is not terribly heavy, about 30Kg but it is is unwieldy so you may wish to place a floor jack underneath to assist. The case can be removed forwards and down after the splined shaft is free.

19. fit a sturdy engine support bar across the engine bay to support the engine.

20. Fit the bar in the middle as much as possible, you dont’ want to be trying to work with the engine pushing towards the rear.

21. Support the engine using chain on eye at rear of valve cover.

21a. Clamp the hydraulic hose to the clutch slave cylinder and seperate it from the fitting by pulling the wire clip out. Unbolt the hydraulic spiral tubing and move it high enough to be out of the way.

22. Remove front and left side engine mounts completely. Remove nut from rear engine mount stud so the engine can be raised and moved around (the left engine mount has two nuts hidden under rubber plugs in the left wheel well

23. Remove the pinch bolt from steering column so it can slide up when the subframe it lowered (don’t move steering wheel afterwards

24. Remove the four subframe metal plates and then loosen all 4 subframe bolts.

25. support subframe on jack. Remove left side subframe bolts completely.

26. Loosen right side subframe bolts all the way out, then screw back in one turn or so (so that it can hang/swivel ).

27. Lower left subframe enough to be able to pull tranny into wheel well -not too far or you might damage the power steering hoses.

28. support tranny using ratchet straps (from engine support bar) and remove all bolts holding the tranny to the engine.

29. Pull tranny apart from engine (may need to wedge apart with screwdriver).

30. put wheeled floor jack under tranny and drag/wiggle/manhandle the it into the left wheel well. You may need to adjust the height of the subframe and/or engine to do this.

31. When you have enough room (it takes a lot of time and effore to wiggle the tranny to a suitable position), bolt on a flywheel locking tool (or use a helper with a screwdriver) and remove the pressure plate, clutch and (if necessary) flywheel.

32.
While the pressure plate is still out, remove the throwout bearing from the bellhousing part of the tranny.

33.
First replace throwout bearing, then flywheel, pressure plate and clutch plate. The flywheel and pressure plate are heavy and difficult to position. Suspend them from a ratchet strap to make it easier for you to bolt them in place.

34. IMPORTANT: use a torque wrench to torque all bolts to correct reading when putting everything back together. There is aluminium here and there on this car and it will strip if you use too much force. I am speaking from experience!!

35. Wiggle tranny back to engine and, using ratchet straps, position it correctly before carefully mating it. DO
NOT USE THE BOLTS TO FORCE IT TOGETHER, IF IT DOESN’T WANT TO MATE, MOVE IT OUT AGAIN AND TRY AGAIN UNTIL IT DOES.

36. Put everything back in reverse order.
 
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