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Hello Everyone,

I did search the forums & I didn't see the exact answers to my questions I so I figured I would as here. I have a 2011 Sonata 2.0 Limited with Nav & Infinity Sound System.

I have installed many systems in the past but I'm not sure where to tap into the existing speaker wires. I would like to avoid running new wires from each speaker back the amp, can I tap into the stock amplifier speaker harness in the trunk? If I do that, do I leave the speaker harness unplugged from the factory amp? Will this have any impact on Bluetooth or the hands free functions?

Any suggestions?
 

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Hello Everyone,

I did search the forums & I didn't see the exact answers to my questions I so I figured I would as here. I have a 2011 Sonata 2.0 Limited with Nav & Infinity Sound System.

I have installed many systems in the past but I'm not sure where to tap into the existing speaker wires. I would like to avoid running new wires from each speaker back the amp, can I tap into the stock amplifier speaker harness in the trunk? If I do that, do I leave the speaker harness unplugged from the factory amp? Will this have any impact on Bluetooth or the hands free functions?

Any suggestions?
You'll have to leave the speaker harness plugged into the OEM amp if you are not replacing the factory Nav. I assume you'll be using speaker level inputs to your replacement amp which will then feed the speakers????. The OEM system uses a Digital link (SPDIF) between the Nav and the OEM amplifier. there's also no amp remote turn-on signal in the factory system.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
You'll have to leave the speaker harness plugged into the OEM amp if you are not replacing the factory Nav. I assume you'll be using speaker level inputs to your replacement amp which will then feed the speakers????. The OEM system uses a Digital link (SPDIF) between the Nav and the OEM amplifier. there's also no amp remote turn-on signal in the factory system.
You are correct, I will use a LOC converter and I will have to run a trigger wire. So does that mean I will have run all new speaker wire to the new aftermarket amp in the truck? Obviously I cannot use the the stock wires if I have to leave the factory amp speaker harness plugged in as both amps would hooked up. Why do we have to leave the factory speaker harness plugged in?
 

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You are correct, I will use a LOC converter and I will have to run a trigger wire. So does that mean I will have run all new speaker wire to the new aftermarket amp in the truck? Obviously I cannot use the the stock wires if I have to leave the factory amp speaker harness plugged in as both amps would hooked up. Why do we have to leave the factory speaker harness plugged in?
Are you using an amplifier to power all of the speakers or are you just adding a new sub amp?
 

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I am adding a 4 channel amp for the mids & highs and a separate amp for the subwoofer.
You will have to leave the OEM amp's speaker connector plugged in to be able to use that signal to supply the LOC. You will have to cut the speaker wires from the OEM amp's output in order to feed the LOC then splice some additional wire to the remaining harness (wires that run to the speakers) so that you can connect the speaker harness to your new amps. Also, the dash mounted/front door speakers have separate leads from the amp (4 pairs of wires) and the sub is a dual voice coil design (2 pairs of wires). The wiring diagram can be accessed on the "HMASERVICE" site, it's a free service... you just have to create an account to be able to use the site. It requires Internet Explorer with a few plug-ins (see site requrements) to view diagrams and written materials. The wiring diagram will show all of the wiring and their respective color codes. I'm not 100% sure, but some channels may be frequency limited therefore a multi channel LOC with summing may be required. I've done a similar mod to my car with only the rear speakers still being supplied by the factory amp. Also, you would lose voice from the bluetooth/nav if you didn't use the OEM amp speaker outputs. See: http://www.hyundai-forums.com/222-yf-2011-sonata-i45/114954-second-mod-new-dash-tweeters-12.html
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You will have to leave the OEM amp's speaker connector plugged in to be able to use that signal to supply the LOC. You will have to cut the speaker wires from the OEM amp's output in order to feed the LOC then splice some additional wire to the remaining harness (wires that run to the speakers) so that you can connect the speaker harness to your new amps. Also, the dash mounted/front door speakers have separate leads from the amp (4 pairs of wires) and the sub is a dual voice coil design (2 pairs of wires). The wiring diagram can be accessed on the "HMASERVICE" site, it's a free service... you just have to create an account to be able to use the site. It requires Internet Explorer with a few plug-ins (see site requrements) to view diagrams and written materials. The wiring diagram will show all of the wiring and their respective color codes. I'm not 100% sure, but some channels may be frequency limited therefore a multi channel LOC with summing may be required. I've done a similar mod to my car with only the rear speakers still being supplied by the factory amp. Also, you would lose voice from the bluetooth/nav if you didn't use the OEM amp speaker outputs. See: http://www.hyundai-forums.com/222-yf-2011-sonata-i45/114954-second-mod-new-dash-tweeters-12.html
OK - I think I understand but correct me if I'm wrong.. I can use the stock wires that are already ran in the car for my new speakers. I need to keep the stock amp speaker wires connected for the front dash 3.5" speaker so I can still utilize Bluetooth calling and voice. I obviously tap into the speaker lines so I can hook-up my LOC which has a trigger sensing input so I dont need to run a remote wire. I am assuming I would cut the wires on the factory amp for the respective speakers I am changing and run those wires to the new amp while leaving the rest of the wires and plug connected to the factory amp.. Does this sound right?
 

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I think you're on the right track. Which LOC are you going to use? Is it only two channels or can it accept more inputs? Also, are the amps capable of speaker level inputs with auto trigger? So to sum things up... all connectors remain plugged into the amp.... cut the speaker wire from the amp's output for the speakers that you're replacing, remember to leave enough of a pigtail to simplify your splicing..... connect the speaker wires from the connector on the amp to the LOC....... then extend the speaker wires that continue on to the speakers to your new amp's speaker terminals. On a final note, the more channels of LOC the greater the control each speaker.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I think you're on the right track. Which LOC are you going to use? Is it only two channels or can it accept more inputs? Also, are the amps capable of speaker level inputs with auto trigger? So to sum things up... all connectors remain plugged into the amp.... cut the speaker wire from the amp's output for the speakers that you're replacing, remember to leave enough of a pigtail to simplify your splicing..... connect the speaker wires from the connector on the amp to the LOC....... then extend the speaker wires that continue on to the speakers to your new amp's speaker terminals. On a final note, the more channels of LOC the greater the control each speaker.
Correct, The plug remains connected to the amp and the only wires I would be cutting and leaving UN-hooked are the respective speakers I am replacing that I want my aftermarket amp to control. I would most likely use the AudioControl LC2i for my LOC.

My buddy sold me a Alpine MRV-F540 and a brand new set of Alpine SPR 60 speakers for the rear door for $150. I think I will but a set of Alpine SPR 60C componets,a JBL GTO 8" or Dayton Audio HF sub, and a Alpine MRD 500 watt amp..
 

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Correct, The plug remains connected to the amp and the only wires I would be cutting and leaving UN-hooked are the respective speakers I am replacing that I want my aftermarket amp to control. I would most likely use the AudioControl LC2i for my LOC.

My buddy sold me a Alpine MRV-F540 and a brand new set of Alpine SPR 60 speakers for the rear door for $150. I think I will but a set of Alpine SPR 60C componets,a JBL GTO 8" or Dayton Audio HF sub, and a Alpine MRD 500 watt amp..
Note - the dash speakers will still be in the loop.... the front door speakers also play bluetooth/voice audio from what I can gather. I'm running an ID8D2 sub with an Alpine MRV-M250 amp and Dayton's RS180, RS100 and ND16FA with an Alpine MRX-F35 4CH amp for the front stage. Still have the stock rear door speakers powered by the OEM amp.
 

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Note - the dash speakers will still be in the loop.... the front door speakers also play bluetooth/voice audio from what I can gather. I'm running an ID8D2 sub with an Alpine MRV-M250 amp and Dayton's RS180, RS100 and ND16FA with an Alpine MRX-F35 4CH amp for the front stage. Still have the stock rear door speakers powered by the OEM amp.
Nice - Sounds like we will be running a similar setup. Technically I should be able to run all of my interior speakers off of the new amp, even the dash speakers as long as the microphone is still hooked up. I will probably just replace the front dash speakers and run those off the stock amp anyways.

How do you like the ID8? Does it blow away the stock sub? I assume it would sound pretty loud in the cabin.
 

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Just make sure that the replacement dash speaker is a 2ohm version if you plan on using the OEM amp to drive them... there's a thread that covers this topic. As for the ID8, it's a lot smoother and plays a bit lower than stock. I'm not a bass-head, so output is tamed to blend with the other speakers. If you do drive it hard (just remember that an IB set-up can only handle about 30-40% of the sub's rated power), you'll be subjected to a few rattles/buzzes of various items on the vehicle. I originally had a Pioneer TSW260S4 installed but removed it because of the previously mentioned problem, it's stiffer suspension was transferring a lot of movement to the vehicles sheet-metal.
 

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AudioControl LC6i would be a better choice (more-flexibility). IMHO
Yeah your probably right. I like the fact of not having to buy a big amp to power the sub. I use to be a bass head but I'm trying to be a little more practical now since its a family car. I also dont need to my car rattling and falling apart from to much bass anymore.
 
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