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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Well, at 60k miles, spark plug change was part of the recommended service. Decided to do it myself since dealer wanted $275. If this has been done before, I apologize for the redundancy. Got OEM plugs for about $70. (first pic) After removing the dust cover, first thing to do is remove the connectors to the coils. Pull the grey tab as seen in pic2. In pick 3 the screwdriver is pushing in to the grey slot, but what you squeeze to remove the connector is the black tab just to the right of the screwdriver. If you push in where I show with the screwdriver, and pull, you will break a black tab inside (Don't do that!) Squeeze the black tab and pull off the connector.
 

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If you push in where I show with the screwdriver, and pull, you will break a black tab inside (Don't do that!) Squeeze the black tab and pull off the connector.
By no means am I doubting the accuracy of the above statement. but it begs the question: "How did you know that?" I'm almost afraid to ask.

I could write a book on why I know some of the things I have learned. We'll just not go there! :grin:
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
After removing the connector, undo the 10mm bolt holding down the coil (pic4). Pull the coil straight out. At this point I used a shop vac to clean out the hole so as to not drop any dirt down the plug hole. I used a 5/8 inch sparkplug socket, though the spec calls for 16mm...my 5/8ths worked just fine. Old spark plug removed (pic5). The new plug I used some High temp dielectric grease as an antisieze on the threads, and put some on the connector end (pic6). I also sprayed some contact cleaner on the coil connectors. They looked pretty clean to start with though.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Put the new plug into the plug socket and gently turn the plug back in by hand. after it threads and you get resistance, I switched to a torque wrench and spec calls for 10.8-18.1 lb-ft (I used 15 ft-lbs). push the coil back down on to the plug and bolt it down 7.2- 8.7 ft-lb. These are specs from HMAservice. Reconnect the connectors and push the grey tabs back down. pull on the connectors to make sure they are seated and locked. Note: you cannot put the connectors on the wrong coil...the lengths are exact for each coil as long as you do not undo all the wire keeps. Hopefully someone else finds this useful. I wish I knew about that darn black tab at the beginning.
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
By no means am I doubting the accuracy of the above statement. but it begs the question: "How did you know that?" I'm almost afraid to ask.

I could write a book on why I know some of the things I have learned. We'll just not go there! :grin:
Yes, the school of hard knocks. Zip ties are our friends.
 

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You just answered my question regarding the black tab. Welcome to the "Learned The Hard Way" club. On a positive note, it warms my heart whenever I see "lubricants, dielectric grease, and torque values" called out in a review. Outstanding! :thumbsup:

BTW, nice write-up! Hope I can find this in 32,000 more miles.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Thanks to all of you for all the countless things I've learned past couple of years. Incidentally, LouIceman changed his plugs awhile back using NGK laser Iridiums. They were very reasonably priced from ROckAuto. I debated whether to go this route vs dealer, but ultimately chose dealer for same reason people get the Hyundai branded oil filter...if something happens, buying their parts makes the warranty harder to break. I think LouIceman is well beyond that with all his mods LOL.
 

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Why change so early? If you have 60k miles already then you should not fall under severe service schedule.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
I thought I saw severe service schedule plug change recommended. Hmmm..now you got me thinking. Will have to ask spouse or look at that manual again when I get home later this week. Dealer had recommended it and they follow the severe usage schedule.
 

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according to Idriveonline.com for my 2013 elantra this is what they say at 30k.
Code:
30,000 Mile Service †
Procedures Included:	
Replace engine oil and filter
Top off all fluids
Multi-point inspection
Clean fuel injectors
Perform automatic transmission service
Perform manual transmission service
Lube Chassis
Replace drain plug gasket
Replace air cleaner filter
Rotate and balance tires
Add BG MOA engine additive
Clean & adjust throttle body
[B]Replace spark plugs (if necessary)[/B]
Inspect fuel lines/hoses & connections
Road test vehicle
Additional Services Included:	
Inspect suspension mounting bolts
Inspect fuel cap
Inspect radiator
Inspect condenser
Inspect steering gear box
Inspect steering linkage & boots
Check horns, lights, and tires
Inspect drive shafts & boots
Inspect Coolant System
Inspect timing belt
Price:	 N/A
†  Prices may vary by model. See service advisor for details.
And at 60k
Code:
60,000 Mile Service †
Procedures Included:	
Replace engine oil and filter
Replace automatic transmission oil
Top off all fluids
Multi-point inspection
Replace manual transmission oil
Lube Chassis
Replace drain plug gasket
Replace air cleaner filter
Rotate and balance tires
Add BG MOA engine additive
Throttle body service
[B]Replace spark plugs[/B]
Perform full inspection service
Road test vehicle
Additional Services Included:	
Inspect fuel cap
Inspect radiator
Inspect condenser
Inspect steering gear box
Inspect steering linkage & boots
Check horns, lights, and tires
Inspect drive shafts & boots
Inspect fuel lines/hoses & connections
Price:	 N/A
†  Prices may vary by model. See service advisor for details.
 

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I thought I saw severe service schedule plug change recommended. Hmmm..now you got me thinking. Will have to ask spouse or look at that manual again when I get home later this week. Dealer had recommended it and they follow the severe usage schedule.
Your location says "nukewastedump" and I think that qualifies for a severe service schedule. LOL.
 

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I read a note on the NGK website and it says if you are running ethanol you can buy one step cooler plug and close the spark plug gap .010" do not exceed .035" GAP to restore fuel mileage.
I emailed NGK asking what plug they recommend for one step cooler.
Ill let you know when I receive a reply.

I have used the Iridium IXs for my last few vehicles with great results.
 

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I was told by dealer severe is 105K miles but that plug looks like its running a little rich.
Can any mechanics comment on the old plug.
If you are referring to the spark plug afpj as post a pic of, that does not look to be burning rich. Actually looks normal if not slightly on the lean side as the porcelain looks light brown.
 

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If you are referring to the spark plug afpj as post a pic of, that does not look to be burning rich. Actually looks normal if not slightly on the lean side as the porcelain looks light brown.
According to NGk its in the Normal Condition category, from experience my plugs don't have that much deposits or color in them.
But I run a complete fuel system cleaner every oil change and a top cylinder lube every fuel up maybe that keeps the plugs cleaner.
 

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Regular plugs @ 30 -- typically Accent w/EFI

Platinum plugs @ 60

IRIDIUM plugs @ 100 +/-

UD/MD comes with IRIDIUM,,, see the "IR" on the plug
 
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