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Discussion Starter #1
At least for me!!

I have a 2012 Sonata Limited, 17" Hankook tires. I have the road noise issues that so many have complained about. Living in an area with terrible road surfaces, the noise was UNBEARABLE!!

I decided to take action:

This weekend, I removed both seats, the side panels of the console, the covers under the dash, both kick panels, both sill plates, and pulled the carpet, jute, deading foam back to expose the bare metal floors. I was shocked at how poor of an attempt Hyundai made sound proofing this car. I used about a roll and a half of Edead sound deadening material that I had left over from my days of car audio installation. I covered all of the bare metal I could see with a double layer. I put it all together and test drove. The difference was astounding!!! I HIGHLY recommend you take the time to do this if the road noise is bothering you. I could not be happier that I did.
 

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Sound proof

If I may ask....what Edead material did you use? I notice on their site there are several choices. Thanks
 

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If I may ask....what Edead material did you use? I notice on their site there are several choices. Thanks
I'm not certain... stuff has been sitting in my garage for a few years since I last did a big car install. I'll take a look and see if I can figure it out, but in all honesty, if you are going to buy something, do some research. Edead was the best on the market when I bought this, but since then, there may be a new king of sound deadener... looking at the website, I think it was Edead45 that I installed.
 

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Hi J187, Can you come by me and do that to mine? The sound is making me nutso! jk
Sounds like a lot of work. Did it take long? I am sure I could do it but wow, i don't know if I could do it in one day.
 

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Hi J187, Can you come by me and do that to mine? The sound is making me nutso! jk
Sounds like a lot of work. Did it take long? I am sure I could do it but wow, i don't know if I could do it in one day.
It's less work than you think... I wish I had documented the process to share on here, but I didn't think of it. Taking the seats out is no more than using a 14mm ratchet and taking out 4 bolts of each seat, leaning the seat over, unplugging everything underneath, then pulling it out.... if you have power seats, put the seat back ALL the way up BEFORE disconnecting electronics to make it easier to pull out. The plastic sill pulls up with a gentle pry, just use safe tools not to damage the plastic. The kick panel pulls out at the back with clips and slides toward the back of the car to disengage a slip-on clip at the front of it. There is one clip in the center of the carpet on the hump, in the middle, under the seats. The carpet pulls back and folds into the back seat area no prob. The one thing is, if you don't want to spend HOURS disengaging the existing foam/padding from up under the bottom of the dash on each side, slicing it with a razor blade into two separate pieces is MUCH Faster and safe to do - I cut mine above where the screw shafts clip on to it, so they will home the bottom section up after I cut it. Once that stuff is out, just apply the deadener with a roller...



For Edead, no heat gun or dryer is needed... just roll it on over all the metal parts, cutting out any plugs or whatever you don't want to cover up. make sure it's tight to the metal, rolling using both the roller AND the butt end of the tool will ensure the edead makes all the contours of the metal underneath. DO one whole layer, then do a second. Put it together, ENJOY!!!!
 

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I actually insulated all 4 doors and just by doing that resolved a decent amount of noise. along the lines of 8-9 dba according to my cheapo amazon.com dba meter.


looking to do the rear deck lid next.
 

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I actually insulated all 4 doors and just by doing that resolved a decent amount of noise. along the lines of 8-9 dba according to my cheapo amazon.com dba meter.


looking to do the rear deck lid next.
Got any pics and what material did you use? I was going to buy the kit from SR, but I don't know how much that will help.
 

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Dynamat is a fantastic product as well.. It serves the exact same function as the other product, it's easy to apply, and it's pretty widely used in the audio industry. It definitely works in the doors.
If you buy, be sure to buy from Amazon, it's about 50% less than direct from Dynamat.
 

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i used a fiber material, its approximatly 1/4 inch thick. I had a bunch of shots on my phone but the sd card took a ****. :( I originally did the doors to remove interior rattles and to resolve the cheap sound our doors make when shutting them. i spent about 50 bucks in materials tops.

stuff i used is very simular to this stuff: UNIVERSAL UNDER PADDING 36" X72" 20 OUNCE PER SQ. YARD | eBay


I went with this type instead of one with one side covered with aluminum...etc was to prevent any rattles caused by wires...etc just cut out a piece and cut it to fit, make holes, use 3m general trim adhesive and stick it on to the door panel side. next time i have some free time ill take the door panel off and send you a pic.

in terms of doing the fender wells, I just undercoated the whole car. much easier :)
 

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UPDATE: It's been a week and I am LOVING how much quieter this car is. By now, I've traversed a multitude of different road surfaces. It is still somewhat loud at times, but it's also not a Lexus, so I have zero issue with an occasional road here and there causing some noise. For the most part, it is infinitely quieter. I'm going to do the doors when I get a chance and I'll update again to let you know if it's even better.
 

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I heard and read in different forums that Peel & Seal (item #154017, model PS625) from Lowe's is one of the best sound deading materials out there. It cost about $18 a roll too.
 

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I actually insulated all 4 doors and just by doing that resolved a decent amount of noise. along the lines of 8-9 dba according to my cheapo amazon.com dba meter.


looking to do the rear deck lid next.
I sure would appreciate it if you could point me to some instructions on removing the door panels and where you insulated. Besides the noise, I have major buzzes and vibration rattles especially in the middle section. I have the bass turned down four notches and the sound faded one notch to the back just to live with it.
 

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I heard and read in different forums that Peel & Seal (item #154017, model PS625) from Lowe's is one of the best sound deading materials out there. It cost about $18 a roll too.

I used it before. It does work. However, it is made for roofs. It's tar based so it stinks and it will run when it's hot. The smell wasn't really that bad after a while. The running can be a pain if you change your audio setup or if you put it in a place where it can run out into the car.
 

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First off, thanks for the thread.

Secondly, do NOT use any of the cheap asphalt-based deadener!!!!! Edead45 is not asphalt based, but the other stuff WILL stink and make a mess and if you live in a hot climate and put it in doors and such it will drip out.

Technically "deadener" is used primarily to deaden vibrations from rattling metal and materials. It will still block sound though when used in this fashion. Something like edead teklite (or other countless products) that are closed cell neoprene are specifically made to filter out high frequency noise. A use of both in this project would be phenomenal!

I've been planning this for a while, but after taking apart cars all day at work, the last thing I want to do is spend time taking apart mine.
 

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I sure would appreciate it if you could point me to some instructions on removing the door panels and where you insulated. Besides the noise, I have major buzzes and vibration rattles especially in the middle section. I have the bass turned down four notches and the sound faded one notch to the back just to live with it.

when I do joeeeys car with him ill take pictures on how i did it. we will make it a write up.
 

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First off, thanks for the thread.

Secondly, do NOT use any of the cheap asphalt-based deadener!!!!! Edead45 is not asphalt based, but the other stuff WILL stink and make a mess and if you live in a hot climate and put it in doors and such it will drip out.

Technically "deadener" is used primarily to deaden vibrations from rattling metal and materials. It will still block sound though when used in this fashion. Something like edead teklite (or other countless products) that are closed cell neoprene are specifically made to filter out high frequency noise. A use of both in this project would be phenomenal!

I've been planning this for a while, but after taking apart cars all day at work, the last thing I want to do is spend time taking apart mine.

I hear you man... But suck it up and do it. Honestly, I was doubtful it would make such a great impact, but wow was I surprised...
 

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IMPORTANT NOTE TO ALL LOOKING TO DO THIS

I own a noise detection stethoscope as part of my arsenal of tools at work - my family owns a mechanic's shop. Using this device I was able to determine that a good deal of sound was coming from one very specific are. I pinpointed the area and got out of the car to investigate where it was. Turned out to be the little cove where the steering column goes though the floorboards. I was shocked to see nothing there at all... no cover, no rubber boot, nothing. It's just a raw shaft going into a metal cove which can act like a speaker. It is VERY important that you don't skip this area when you deaden. But be careful not to obstruct the column which spins freely in there. I did one thin layer behind the column shaft along the cove, and took great care to make sure that it is well formed and not sticking up at all.
 

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...:eek:BUMP! for a great thread that may go to the graveyard!
Thank you! I'm not sure I would have seen this one otherwise.

I just picked my 2012 2.4 SE 3 days ago. So far the noise hasn't bothered me, though I can definitely hear the tires on poor pavement. If it gets to be too much I'll remember this thread.

Thanks!
 
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