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Dear All,
I have a Getz CRDI, and it is 40k kms old close to 25k miles old.Need some info about the soft reset of the ECU.

Is there any advantage of doing it assuming if the driver is aggressive?

I have given the steps from the below link information about how to do soft reset please share your experience on this.

Note ALL the electrical must be shut off, including climate control. Don't operate anything electrical, radio-windows-dome light-etc, during the procedure.

1) Turn the Key to the "on" position (the position right before you start your engine)

2) Press and hold your gas pedal down for more than 5 seconds

3) With gas pedal still down, turn Key to "off" position (dont remove the key) and then release the gas pedal.

4) Wait at least 2 minutes for the car systems to reset.

This "soft reset" rests the tranny and ECU to original "agressive" factory defaults - since "adaptive" program was designed for economy, and not performance.


URL: ECU Soft Reset - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum


Thanks in advance
Arnab
 

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Dear All,
I have a Getz CRDI, and it is 40k kms old close to 25k miles old.Need some info about the soft reset of the ECU.

Is there any advantage of doing it assuming if the driver is aggressive?

I have given the steps from the below link information about how to do soft reset please share your experience on this.

Note ALL the electrical must be shut off, including climate control. Don't operate anything electrical, radio-windows-dome light-etc, during the procedure.

1) Turn the Key to the "on" position (the position right before you start your engine)

2) Press and hold your gas pedal down for more than 5 seconds

3) With gas pedal still down, turn Key to "off" position (dont remove the key) and then release the gas pedal.

4) Wait at least 2 minutes for the car systems to reset.

This "soft reset" rests the tranny and ECU to original "agressive" factory defaults - since "adaptive" program was designed for economy, and not performance.


URL: ECU Soft Reset - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum


Thanks in advance
Arnab
I really don't know if this procedure works for the Hyundai ECM. This is a Mercedes forum. I believe such procedure works for the MB ECM, but not so sure about the Hyundai.

Resetting an ECM (factory settings) is easy. You can use a High Scan scanner or go with the "manual method".

Manual method:
1) Disconnect battery (-) negative pole.
2) Press brake pedal a few times (this is to drain all possible current inside any capacitor in the ECM or elswhere in car).
3) Wait five minutes.
4) Reconnect battery.
5) Start engine WITHOUT PRESSING the throttle pedal.

BTW, step 5 is always recommended for everyday operation. Pressing the throttle pedal while starting, will induce the ECM to register erroneous idle position settings and in time, may produce very low idle running and engine hesitation. This is valid for ALL ECM controlled injection systems, Diesel or Petrol.
 

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What is the benefit of reseting ECU or when it is required to do that?
Thanks,
Arnab

ECM (ECU) resetting is needed only if it develops a strange behavior, like rough or abnormal idle, strange shifting (auto tranny) or such. If your car is running OK there is no need to reset it and by doing so, you will gain nothing. Of course, this is after discarding all possible situations causing this strange behavior.

Another reason for resetting is to clear any error code recorded, and after fixing the cause you want to clear the error code. But anyway, if any error code is recorded, then the cause is fixed, then the error code will clear itself after several engine start/stop cycles.
 

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I really don't know if this procedure works for the Hyundai ECM. This is a Mercedes forum. I believe such procedure works for the MB ECM, but not so sure about the Hyundai.

Resetting an ECM (factory settings) is easy. You can use a High Scan scanner or go with the "manual method".

Manual method:
1) Disconnect battery (-) negative pole.
2) Press brake pedal a few times (this is to drain all possible current inside any capacitor in the ECM or elswhere in car).
3) Wait five minutes.
4) Reconnect battery.
5) Start engine WITHOUT PRESSING the throttle pedal.

BTW, step 5 is always recommended for everyday operation. Pressing the throttle pedal while starting, will induce the ECM to register erroneous idle position settings and in time, may produce very low idle running and engine hesitation. This is valid for ALL ECM controlled injection systems, Diesel or Petrol.
is it this methode apply to elantra 95.... because i have same problem.... idle aroun 1100, and when the Air Conditioner on, it turn down to 950.....

regards
aji
 

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is it this methode apply to elantra 95.... because i have same problem.... idle aroun 1100, and when the Air Conditioner on, it turn down to 950.....

regards
aji

Resetting on your elantra should be the same, but before you do it, I suggest checking the TPS (throttle position sensor) and Idle Control actuator. Sometimes grime buildup may cause erratic idle situations.

Let us know your findings and outcome.
 

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Resetting on your elantra should be the same, but before you do it, I suggest checking the TPS (throttle position sensor) and Idle Control actuator. Sometimes grime buildup may cause erratic idle situations.

Let us know your findings and outcome.
the problem comes when i send my car to the AC specialist.... after that idle rpm hold at 1100 and when AC on , it down to 950.... i ask him is it he change something he said no, but i guest he do the number 5 from the step that you describe above,..... i havent check my TPS adn Idle control actuator..... since this is the first time i have a car..... i have very small information and skill about car..... and this mornig i try reset the ecu unplug the (-) form the battery , push the break pedal couple times and leave around 15 minutes, i connect the (-) again but it still doesn't change the situation,..... i try it twice.... but the idle still hold..... if you do mind would you inform me thow to clean TPS and Idel control accurator and the location, (is it oke that i attach a picture of my engine).....thanks

best regards

aji
 

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the problem comes when i send my car to the AC specialist.... after that idle rpm hold at 1100 and when AC on , it down to 950.... i ask him is it he change something he said no, but i guest he do the number 5 from the step that you describe above,..... i havent check my TPS adn Idle control actuator..... since this is the first time i have a car..... i have very small information and skill about car..... and this mornig i try reset the ecu unplug the (-) form the battery , push the break pedal couple times and leave around 15 minutes, i connect the (-) again but it still doesn't change the situation,..... i try it twice.... but the idle still hold..... if you do mind would you inform me thow to clean TPS and Idel control accurator and the location, (is it oke that i attach a picture of my engine).....thanks

best regards

aji
Since some disassemble is required and handling of very delicate items, and considering you say you have no experience doing this, then I suggest taking the car to a qualified mechanic to do so.

At this time, It would be good to perform a full sensor check up (and cleaning), as well as checking the intake air filter, spark plugs and cable leads.

Normal items (sensors and such) that may affect general engine performance and idle adjustment are:
a) Throttle position sensor (at the entrance of engine air intake, just next to intake duct)
b) Idle actuator (next to the throttle position sensor)
c) Mass air flow sensor (should be somewhere attached to the air intake duct, after the filter and before the throttle position sensor)
d) Air filter (clogged, very dirty).

Cleaning just takes a large spray can of contact cleaner (carbon tetrachloride based) and some dis assembly. Those sensors need to be soaked in contact cleaner and let to dry on air (take few seconds only), but care is needed as not to touch the inner parts with your fingers.

Let us know which engine is in your Elantra, so we can help you better finding this sensors.
 

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Since some disassemble is required and handling of very delicate items, and considering you say you have no experience doing this, then I suggest taking the car to a qualified mechanic to do so.

At this time, It would be good to perform a full sensor check up (and cleaning), as well as checking the intake air filter, spark plugs and cable leads.

Normal items (sensors and such) that may affect general engine performance and idle adjustment are:
a) Throttle position sensor (at the entrance of engine air intake, just next to intake duct)
b) Idle actuator (next to the throttle position sensor)
c) Mass air flow sensor (should be somewhere attached to the air intake duct, after the filter and before the throttle position sensor)
d) Air filter (clogged, very dirty).

Cleaning just takes a large spray can of contact cleaner (carbon tetrachloride based) and some dis assembly. Those sensors need to be soaked in contact cleaner and let to dry on air (take few seconds only), but care is needed as not to touch the inner parts with your fingers.

Let us know which engine is in your Elantra, so we can help you better finding this sensors.
thanks for your respond, i think i will go to the mechanic.... your information help me out to think..... may be this week end i go there.... (is it the items you decribe it's in tune up packet)...... the engine this car.... i'm not quite sur.... based on the ID car.... elantra year 1995 engine cylinder 1596 CC type elantra manual transmission, if i'm looking the information in internet , is J1 engine........ i dont know is it diffrent spec with other elantra in other country...in indonesia many feature has been reduced,because in my car, there is no aig bag, sound signal if the door open etc...... fyi last night i try to disconnect (-) pole and push the brake for couple of minute and leave disconnet all night long...than this morning i conncet it again... the idle same like before.......

one more question, if this situation like this (idle hold at 11000 rpm) i leave like this, will affect other or has negative effect ex: over heat and high consume fuel and what's the diffrent beetwen fuel regular unloaded (we call it in indonesia PREMIUM = octan 82), un regular (PERTAMAX = octan 9 up) which fuel i have to use for daily consume,.....

best regards

aji
 

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thanks for your respond, i think i will go to the mechanic.... your information help me out to think..... may be this week end i go there.... (is it the items you decribe it's in tune up packet)...... the engine this car.... i'm not quite sur.... based on the ID car.... elantra year 1995 engine cylinder 1596 CC type elantra manual transmission, if i'm looking the information in internet , is J1 engine........ i dont know is it diffrent spec with other elantra in other country...in indonesia many feature has been reduced,because in my car, there is no aig bag, sound signal if the door open etc...... fyi last night i try to disconnect (-) pole and push the brake for couple of minute and leave disconnet all night long...than this morning i conncet it again... the idle same like before.......

one more question, if this situation like this (idle hold at 11000 rpm) i leave like this, will affect other or has negative effect ex: over heat and high consume fuel and what's the diffrent beetwen fuel regular unloaded (we call it in indonesia PREMIUM = octan 82), un regular (PERTAMAX = octan 9 up) which fuel i have to use for daily consume,.....

best regards

aji
Have in mind that when engine is COLD, it is normal to have high idle speeds, especially if AC is turned on. The high idle speed when engine is cold (first start in the morning) should last for a few minutes. Sometimes even as short as 30 seconds to 1 minute, depending on ambient temp and how long was since the engine was last stopped (few hours to days).

Fuel quality does affect engine performance. Contrary to popular belief, using regular gasoline instead of premium may indeed produce lower fuel efficiency.

This engines (via sensors) adjust everything (spark timing, fuel delivery timing, fuel delivery amount and acceleration timing) based on sensor readings. It is supposed to get the most efficiency considering fuel quality, air quality (oxygen content), ambient temperature and ambient humidity. By using lower quality fuels (also lower cost) all the parameters in engine will shift to adjust performace curves to that specific fuel. Sometimes, the auto adjustments made by the ECU are not enough to compensate for the such low quality fuel and thus, produce erratic engine performace, like engine stalling, hesitation, poor acceleration, poor fuel economy and other operational situations not considered normal.

By using higher quality fuels, the engine will adjust accordingly and even though fuel is more expensive, the engine will also be more efficient, sometimes translating in lower cost per km driven.

Remember: Fuel economy is about how much it takes to fill up the tank. Its about how far can you with certain amount of money. The issue here is to get the lower cost per kilometer, not the lower cost per tankfull.
 

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Have in mind that when engine is COLD, it is normal to have high idle speeds, especially if AC is turned on. The high idle speed when engine is cold (first start in the morning) should last for a few minutes. Sometimes even as short as 30 seconds to 1 minute, depending on ambient temp and how long was since the engine was last stopped (few hours to days).

Fuel quality does affect engine performance. Contrary to popular belief, using regular gasoline instead of premium may indeed produce lower fuel efficiency.

This engines (via sensors) adjust everything (spark timing, fuel delivery timing, fuel delivery amount and acceleration timing) based on sensor readings. It is supposed to get the most efficiency considering fuel quality, air quality (oxygen content), ambient temperature and ambient humidity. By using lower quality fuels (also lower cost) all the parameters in engine will shift to adjust performace curves to that specific fuel. Sometimes, the auto adjustments made by the ECU are not enough to compensate for the such low quality fuel and thus, produce erratic engine performace, like engine stalling, hesitation, poor acceleration, poor fuel economy and other operational situations not considered normal.

By using higher quality fuels, the engine will adjust accordingly and even though fuel is more expensive, the engine will also be more efficient, sometimes translating in lower cost per km driven.

Remember: Fuel economy is about how much it takes to fill up the tank. Its about how far can you with certain amount of money. The issue here is to get the lower cost per kilometer, not the lower cost per tankfull.
it's very helpfull for me... the information about the fuel thank you very much, i will keep in my mind..... if you dont mind if i asked you the questions about if this situation idle at 1100 has negative impact to other part for ex: overheat ..... when in the morning firt start up to 1100 an stay forever and not going down....but when the AC on....it down 950, but when running time AC aroud 1 minute it come up again 1100,....

regards

ajie :)
 

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it's very helpfull for me... the information about the fuel thank you very much, i will keep in my mind..... if you dont mind if i asked you the questions about if this situation idle at 1100 has negative impact to other part for ex: overheat ..... when in the morning firt start up to 1100 an stay forever and not going down....but when the AC on....it down 950, but when running time AC aroud 1 minute it come up again 1100,....

regards

ajie :)
Having your idle a bit higher than normal (around 20%) will not produce negative impacts or excessive heat build up (unless you stand in traffic jam for very long periods...). The only thing that will affect a bit is fuel efficiency.

BTW, there is another item that may be producing this situation. It is the ECT (engine coolant temp sensor). If this sensor is giving bad readings, like not telling the engine has reached certain operating temperature, it will not only produce your situation (high idle all the time) but will also significantly decrease fuel efficiency and increase exhaust pollution.

While at your mechanic, have them check this too.
 

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Having your idle a bit higher than normal (around 20%) will not produce negative impacts or excessive heat build up (unless you stand in traffic jam for very long periods...). The only thing that will affect a bit is fuel efficiency.

BTW, there is another item that may be producing this situation. It is the ECT (engine coolant temp sensor). If this sensor is giving bad readings, like not telling the engine has reached certain operating temperature, it will not only produce your situation (high idle all the time) but will also significantly decrease fuel efficiency and increase exhaust pollution.

While at your mechanic, have them check this too.
hi Robert, i 'm sorrry ijust have to connect to internet only at the office, at the weekend i have chance to meet the mechanic, and you are right, air filter it's very dirty...so cleaning up and the items you ask me to check....., and work normal :thumbsup::liebe011::thumbsup: i think the ECT is Ok (i think)... heat indicator below middle....as usual,.... form there i found another problem at the power steering, there is a leak.... i have a chance to go under my car.....PS oli, but the oil power sterring not going empty it's stay at between low and full, i guess it's ok i upload the picture.... the leak area with circle red.... if you don'n't mind i ask the question... is it i have to replace it or just fix the seal .... (is it fix able).... or i just leave it like this....thank you so much for all your informations....

best regards
aji
 

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hi Robert, i 'm sorrry ijust have to connect to internet only at the office, at the weekend i have chance to meet the mechanic, and you are right, air filter it's very dirty...so cleaning up and the items you ask me to check....., and work normal :thumbsup::liebe011::thumbsup: i think the ECT is Ok (i think)... heat indicator below middle....as usual,.... form there i found another problem at the power steering, there is a leak.... i have a chance to go under my car.....PS oli, but the oil power sterring not going empty it's stay at between low and full, i guess it's ok i upload the picture.... the leak area with circle red.... if you don'n't mind i ask the question... is it i have to replace it or just fix the seal .... (is it fix able).... or i just leave it like this....thank you so much for all your informations....

best regards
aji
Glad to see you have fixed your car about the previous concern and found the dirty filter.

About your power steering leaking.... I just checked my Getz service manual, which has an almost identical rack and pinion power steering box. It looks like there are some O rings at both ends of the steering box, where the tie rods come in and the bellows boots are located (where you have the apparent leak).

The manual says how to replace those O ring seals, but this involves the removal of the whole steering box assembly. This means a major job. Considering your leak is very small (since power steering fluid) is still at acceptable levels, I suggest that in the meantime, just wash the area with a good degreaser, then refill the fluid to max level and check for the leaks once a week.

With the rubber bellows cleaned, you can see where is the leak coming out and you can also check if the fluid level is going down very fast.

I am presuming that such repair would take a couple of days from a very skilled technician and it won't be cheap, so I would decide on doing such repair ONLY if the leak becomes very fast (like leaving drops on your garage floor) or the fluid level needs refilling in less than a week of operation.

Another suggestion (for the forum). I guess you will get more help if you post this concerns about your Elantra, in the proper Elantra forum. I am sure there you will find more helpful answers from Elantra owners around the world.

Regards
 

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Glad to see you have fixed your car about the previous concern and found the dirty filter.

About your power steering leaking.... I just checked my Getz service manual, which has an almost identical rack and pinion power steering box. It looks like there are some O rings at both ends of the steering box, where the tie rods come in and the bellows boots are located (where you have the apparent leak).

The manual says how to replace those O ring seals, but this involves the removal of the whole steering box assembly. This means a major job. Considering your leak is very small (since power steering fluid) is still at acceptable levels, I suggest that in the meantime, just wash the area with a good degreaser, then refill the fluid to max level and check for the leaks once a week.

With the rubber bellows cleaned, you can see where is the leak coming out and you can also check if the fluid level is going down very fast.

I am presuming that such repair would take a couple of days from a very skilled technician and it won't be cheap, so I would decide on doing such repair ONLY if the leak becomes very fast (like leaving drops on your garage floor) or the fluid level needs refilling in less than a week of operation.

Another suggestion (for the forum). I guess you will get more help if you post this concerns about your Elantra, in the proper Elantra forum. I am sure there you will find more helpful answers from Elantra owners around the world.

Regards
thanks for your informations.... i glad i have ask several questions to you..... the power steering leak become my attention.... i will done what you suggest... FYI every day i check the level oil PS reservoir.... befor i warm the engine in the morning, and the car i used only at the weekend for spending time with my wife and my son, i will clean it.... i will post in elantra forum.... thank you so much for the information.... it's very helping me out..... nice to know you in the forum and share information.....and i hope you don't if i ask question in the future.... :)

best regards

aji
 

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Dear All,
I have a Getz CRDI, and it is 40k kms old close to 25k miles old.Need some info about the soft reset of the ECU.

Is there any advantage of doing it assuming if the driver is aggressive?

I have given the steps from the below link information about how to do soft reset please share your experience on this.

Note ALL the electrical must be shut off, including climate control. Don't operate anything electrical, radio-windows-dome light-etc, during the procedure.

1) Turn the Key to the "on" position (the position right before you start your engine)

2) Press and hold your gas pedal down for more than 5 seconds

3) With gas pedal still down, turn Key to "off" position (dont remove the key) and then release the gas pedal.

4) Wait at least 2 minutes for the car systems to reset.

This "soft reset" rests the tranny and ECU to original "agressive" factory defaults - since "adaptive" program was designed for economy, and not performance.


URL: ECU Soft Reset - Benzworld.org - Mercedes-Benz Discussion Forum


Thanks in advance
Arnab
I have slight hesitation on acceleration from a dead stop in my 2013 Elantra. Then slight acceleration "buck" very briefly and then normal as I accelerate. If I do the "soft reset" and don't like it .. how do I go back to what my setting is now? Is that even possible?

Thanks...
 

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I have a 2007 Santa Fe 2.7L
when i start it up it revs up from 3000-5000 rpm then shuts down.
i changed spark plugs due to misfire code, and TPS due to P2106 code
Now i have P2173, P2106, and P1295. Would you think a soft ECM reset would solve my issue?

P.s. I check for vacuum leaks and there aren't any present
 

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Hey all, my 2010 2.2 cdri Santa Fe that i've only had for a month was very sluggish, especially accelerating from a stop then feeling held back. Did an ecu reset by removing the ecu fuse and what a change! it's go from feeling like an old truck to a very zippy big car...
 

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worked for me

Hey all, my 2010 2.2 cdri Santa Fe that I've only had for a month was very sluggish, especially accelerating from a stop then feeling held back. Did an ecu reset by removing the ecu fuse and what a change! it's go from feeling like an old truck to a very zippy big car...
 

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ECM (ECU) resetting is needed only if it develops a strange behavior, like rough or abnormal idle, strange shifting (auto tranny) or such. If your car is running OK there is no need to reset it and by doing so, you will gain nothing. Of course, this is after discarding all possible situations causing this strange behavior.

Another reason for resetting is to clear any error code recorded, and after fixing the cause you want to clear the error code. But anyway, if any error code is recorded, then the cause is fixed, then the error code will clear itself after several engine start/stop cycles.
would this work the same way for my 2010 Hyundai Getz? On first start, it will start, but the idle slowly dwindles down before it stops, then I will restart the car and it’s hesitant on take off but once she’s going it’s fine. Every start there after seems to be ok. Plugs. Leads and coil replaced. Opinions?
 
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