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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2011 turbo desiel iload that I have just replaced the turbo on ( also did the injector seals and bolts) and since then I have a very strange problem. It will blow a huge clouds of light blue to gray smoke at odd times and only for a few seconds. It will do it if I drive slowly up or down a steep driveway or sometimes if I leave it idilling for a few minutes and then drive off. The strange thing is it might not do it at all one day and then play up the next. It does not loose any power when it does it and doesn't seem to use any oil because of it. I have had it to 3 different mechanics and they can not figure it out.
My other problem is that I have fitted an oil pressure gauge and it shows very high oil pressure, but now I am thinking it is in the wrong location. I have put an adapter into the existing oil pressure light sensor opening. But as the oil pump is at the front of the motor and the oil filter and relief valve are towards the rear this location probably has a much higher pressure than the rest of the motor. Does anybody know of another location to connect the gauge to?
 

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What happened to the old turbo?
If it self destructed debris could have entered the cylinders, causing damage and now oil to get past the rings.
Or the new turbo could have a bad seal.
Do you know the oil change history? Sludge or varnish could cause the oil pressure relief valve to stick.
What's the oil pressure at hot idle?
 

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The old turbo did a seal, but did not self disintergrate. Huge amounts of oil out through the exhurst. We had the sump off and cleaned the oil pick up and gave it 2 quick oil changes. My thoughts are that the turbo has a bad seal and are trying to claim another one under warranty, the problem is the supplier wont give me another one until they inspect this one and as it is a work vehicle and I live in another state to them that means I am going to be off the road for a couple of weeks. I have it booked in next week to have the relief valve checked and cleaned. The hot idle is 20psi and it should be 11 and hot revs is around 40psi, but as I said I think where I have connected the gauge I am picking up the pressure between the oil pump and the pressure relief valve.
 

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Regarding the oil pressure gauge. You can't fit it in the wrong location and get a higher reading. Don't suppose you have a buildup of oil in the exhaust system. It can take months of driving to burn off.
 

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20psi @Idle and 40 @ higher revs is great pressure. It means you have good bearing clearances and the pressure regulating is working fine.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
20psi @Idle and 40 @ higher revs is great pressure. It means you have good bearing clearances and the pressure regulating is working fine.
20psi @Idle and 40 @ higher revs is great pressure. It means you have good bearing clearances and the pressure regulating is working fine.
Sorry I just reread my reply and realised it was a bit confusing. My hot idle is around 20 and the specs say 11. What is the worrying thing is that my cold idle is around 70psi and if I drive it before it is really warmed up my cold high revs can be 90 to 100psi.
 

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Sorry I have just reread my reply and it is a bit confusing. My hot idle is around 20 and the specs say around 11.What is worrying thing is that my cold idle is around 70psi and if I drive it before it is really warmed up my cold high revs can be 90 to 100psi. So the worry is the seals can't take 4hat sort of pressure.
Strangely enough even at these high pressures it does not necessarily blow the smoke at that time but as I have said it does it at random times and at random revs.
 

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It looks like the oil pressure relief valve has a problem. Yes 100 is on the high side but really not that bad it's not the seals you should be concerned about it's the oil pump drive that can fail. What grade of oil are you using and is your gauge accurate?
 

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Discussion Starter #10
My latest mechanic has put some sort of professional gauge/meter on it and mine reads slightly high by about 2 to 3 psi. I have only ever used good quality full synthetic 5W-40, changed every 5 to 7000.
I have also fitted a dawes valve to stop the turbo form over boosting, a catch can and an EGR blocking plate so I am not returning muck into the intake. I have given it a complete chemical clean and had the intercooler out and cleaned.
 

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I would not block EGR without a tune.
You could be running lean at times, overheating plugs, exhaust valves and piston tops.
 

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Idle should be 22 psi hot. Around 56 psi at 1800 rpm hot. Have you have the intake pipes checked for leaks? They can split hoses and the turbo overspeeds trying to make up the pressure difference, might be the cause of turbo failure.
Also has the return oil hose been cleaned out or checked for blockage?
Steve
 

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All intake pipes have been off and inspected. I have fitted a dawes valve and boost valve and have limited boost to 18psi. The new turbo was supplied with 2 new oil lines. The vehicle is with a mechanic at the moment for him to investigate and I will pick it up in 2 days hopefully with an answer .
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Still only a little closer to solving my smoking problem. my mechanic has removed the oil pressure relief valve and found it in good condition and not sticking, he also removed the turbo oil discharge pipe and checked it for obstructions and found nothing. He then compaired the oil pressure to what is in the manual I got off this forum and it is spot on. He said the turbo has oil all over it again and thinks that the problem has to be a faulty turbo oil seal. I spoke to the original suppliers and they are shipping a new one over under warranty for me, so fingers crossed that will solve the issue.
 
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