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Discussion Starter #1
Hello,

I have a 2012 Hyundai Elantra with 93K miles. I took it for an oil change this weekend and they recommended the following services:

  • Replace brakes @ $640
  • Replace tires @ $350
  • Replace steering coupler @ $230
  • Replace spark plugs @ $225 (maint. schedule says to replace at 100K)
  • Premium 3 step process @ $100
  • Brake fluid exchange @ $50
  • Premium coolant exchange @ $100
  • Premium rail service @ $60
  • 4 wheel alignment @ $70
They said the brakes are at 1mm and the tires are at 2/32in. They said the tires wouldn't pass state inspection. I understand the brakes need to be done so my questions are:

  • Is that a fair price for brake replacements?
  • Would you do any of the other recommendations at this mileage? Except for spark plugs, none of the other ones are in the maint. schedule.
 

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I do most everything myself, so I'm not up on shop prices, but that's a high price for brakes. Are they including rotors too? As I recall, pad replacement at a shop will run in the $100 range per two wheels. Turning rotors might be a bit extra ($25). 1 mm means the pad is gone. Need to get it done.

2/32" means it's time for new tires. Hard to tell if the tire price is good without knowing the brand and if it's an out the door price. Probably better off at a tire shop. Alignment price is OK, and if you're getting new tires, get alignment if out of spec.

Really good price for a brake fluid exchange, I'd get it done if you haven't had it changed in 3 years. Coolant you can do yourself. It's a simple drain and fill (I do it twice). Otherwise, most want $100. If it hasn't been done in under 5 years, assuming it's a 5 year coolant, it needs changing. Corrosion inhibitors get depleted.

I replaced my own plugs for under $45. $225 seems a bit high for the market, but not excessive for a dealer.

Unless the steering is acting up (clicking), the coupler can wait. Rail service? Nah. Get a bottle of Techron fuel system cleaner and add to tank.

The dealer recommended coolant and trans fluid changes for my vehicle too, but I had changed both the previous month. They're not actually checking the fluids, just going by age and mileage.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for the quick response and insight! Apologies for not adding some of these details. The breakdown cost for the brakes is:

Front Ceramic Brake Service - $80 parts + $90 labor = $170
Rear Ceramic Brake Service - $80 parts + $90 labor = $170
Front Disk Brake Rotor - $75x2 = $150
Rear Disk Brake Rotor - $75x2 = $150

I'm assuming if they included rotors they think it needs replacement as well instead of just pads?

Spark plugs - $35x4 parts + $84 labor.

The tire brand is Sailun Atrezzo. The ones in the car now are Michelin, but I can't remember exactly when they were replaced (I think somewhere around 50-65K).

As far as the coolant exchange and brake fluid exchange, I would need to look it up, but I think I have always denied it because it always felt like they were recommending things which were not needed at the time.
 

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idaknow. brake fluid exchange? if this is the same as a flush, then good price. if just suckoutold, putinnew, then price is hi. fresh brake fluid is near clear(kinda light gold), if it is dark, it is well past needing a flush. steering coupler? not sure if they mean the one inside the power steering, or the one on the shaft. if it is the one in the p/s, there was a recall on that, ask if it has been done. if not, i think it is no charge. michelin has a treadwear guarantee. if the tire is a defender, then tw is like 90k. if 2/32, then they are at the wear bars, and a new michelin will be discounted. sailun atrezzo is a discount tire, not anywhere near michelin quality. here's my best analogy. if your family is worth 87.50/tire, then by all means, get the cheapos. we have michelins on both our cars, i just had a set installed, base price was 127/tire. after tt&l, well over 700 bucks. but my wife drives the car, too. we also have michelins on the other car. that brake job price does include the rotors(says disk brake rotor), not bad, diy for less than half, if you have tools/expertise(i do, but i would pay to have it done because i dont like to work on cars any more). i would never have rotors turned. find out what the minimum thickness is, any parts store can measure your old rotor. coolant exchange on a diy basis is cheap, BUT, finding a place to dispose of old coolant is not easy. wtf is a premium step 3 process? 70 bucks for alignment is a really good price. spark plugs is too easy, even i would change them myself for a lot less. fuel rail? nah. google top tier gas.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
This is the description they gave me:

Premium 3 Step Process - PRE-SOAK, DECARBONIZING WASH, VALVE & INJECTOR RINSE, AIR INDUCTION CLEANING - 3-step process removes deposits from the fuel & air intake system including: intake valves, and combustion chambers, throttle body and air intake system.

Brake Fluid Exchange Dot 3 - Remove old, used fluid and replace with dot 3 brake fluid. Visual leak inspection. Verify fluid type. Includes up to 1 quart of fluid.

Premium Coolant Exchange - Remove used fluid and replace with O.E. Spec Extended Life Coolant. Visual lean inspection. Verify fluid type. Inspect hoses and clamps. Pressure test radiator cap. Includes up to 8 quarts of fluid.

Premium Rail Service - Includes clean fuel injectors, fuel rail, and combustion chamber.

For the steering it only says, "Replace Steering Coupler." I'm aware of the motor driven power steering (MDPS) assembly warranty extension; in fact, I took the car to the dealership twice because I was hearing clicking noises when moving the steering wheel left and right. They replaced the part and the noise continued so I took it there a second time and they replaced again and the noise went again. I'm not sure what this place saw, but they said it was "loose."
 

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premium 3 step and premium rail sound the same. and yes if gdi, but no if mfi. you have mfi. i still dont see the word FLUSH for brake or coolant. however, if "remove" means remove ALL of the old fluid, which is what a flush does, then good price for brake. still kinda high for coolant, but again, disposal problems if diy. and there may be new rules for diy, so maybe disposal is expensive. dunno on coupler, is it making noise/looseygoosey?
 

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The Sailun Atrezzo is a baseline Goodyear, about $50 a tire at WalMart. You can get a better tire for the $350 dealer price at a Tire shop, WalMart... I'd probably opt for Milestars (about $50 tire) if I wanted a budget tire, but I ordinarily stick with name brands. $170 is a bit high for just pads (should include rotor resurfacing). I'd make some calls and see what shops come in at. Ceramic pads are good.

My front rotors are original, and are fine at 114,000 miles. I replaced the rear rotors recently (DIY), due to a cosmetic reason (getting rusty around the edges) rather than anything wrong with them. If you get rotors, make sure they're 'coated' (rust preventative), otherwise they'll look rusty from day 1. The originals may just need to be resurfaced.

If you decide to shop plugs, original are NGK 9723 (Iridium).

I only go to a dealer for recalls, warranty items or a vehicle specific problem that can't be fixed elsewhere. So, consider me jaded :)
 

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Why so high on the Plugs? Is it that labor intensive?
Remove engine cover (pop off), clean area, unplug coils, unscrew bolt holding coil and remove coil, remove and replace plugs. Place coils back in, bolt 'em down careful not to go too tight, plug in. Replace engine cover. Done. About 30 minutes if you're picky. ;)
 

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Pads @ 1mm. Given they have or should metal scrapers or squealers fitted, at that depth the brakes must be squealing away when your using them. Is that the case.
 

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Remove engine cover (pop off), clean area, unplug coils, unscrew bolt holding coil and remove coil, remove and replace plugs. Place coils back in, bolt 'em down careful not to go too tight, plug in. Replace engine cover. Done. About 30 minutes if you're picky. ;)
That's the thing I love about these Elantras, so easy to diy. I used to own a BMW, was a pain. Stupid design for the diyer.
 

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i was a bmw fanatic for years. worked for a bmw dealer and a couple of independents, then sold parts for a long time. i used to write a column for the roundel magazine, back when yale rachlin was editor. raced them, modified them, but this was back in the 60/70/80's. mostly 2002's. bmw dont like their cars to be serviced at independents. now they dont like the cars to be serviced at all. turn them in and buy another car. i gave up on them a long time ago, and went to mitsubishi turbo cars. i still keep in touch with some of my independent friends, and they say bmw is really messed up, and getting worse
 

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i was a bmw fanatic for years. worked for a bmw dealer and a couple of independents, then sold parts for a long time. i used to write a column for the roundel magazine, back when yale rachlin was editor. raced them, modified them, but this was back in the 60/70/80's. mostly 2002's. bmw dont like their cars to be serviced at independents. now they dont like the cars to be serviced at all. turn them in and buy another car. i gave up on them a long time ago, and went to mitsubishi turbo cars. i still keep in touch with some of my independent friends, and they say bmw is really messed up, and getting worse
On my e46 328i, you gotta replace the whole control arm to replace ball joints. Not cheap.

The radiator was made of plastic too. It blew out on the highway.
 

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On my e46 328i, you gotta replace the whole control arm to replace ball joints. Not cheap.

The radiator was made of plastic too. It blew out on the highway.
all the radiators are plastic. has to do with recyclable materials on cars. one of my favorite tales about e46 sdn was the rear windows. at the dealer, we had like 100 of each lifter in stock, because they broke so easy. when people would call up and tell us they locked the key in the car, we would tell them to force the right rear window down. it was so easy. then there was the taillight campaign. there was a small kit to fix the lenses melting, and we got a lotta thank yous from owners who were going to buy a new lens, but we told them how to get it fixed under campaign. oh, and aftermarket came out with a neat tool that would pull off the bad ball joint, and install the new one. aftermarket, of course
 

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all the radiators are plastic. has to do with recyclable materials on cars. one of my favorite tales about e46 sdn was the rear windows. at the dealer, we had like 100 of each lifter in stock, because they broke so easy. when people would call up and tell us they locked the key in the car, we would tell them to force the right rear window down. it was so easy. then there was the taillight campaign. there was a small kit to fix the lenses melting, and we got a lotta thank yous from owners who were going to buy a new lens, but we told them how to get it fixed under campaign. oh, and aftermarket came out with a neat tool that would pull off the bad ball joint, and install the new one. aftermarket, of course
Just briefly looking at my Elantra, I believe my rad is aluminum.

I hated that the coolant reservoir had no pressure release like other systems.
 

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Just briefly looking at my Elantra, I believe my rad is aluminum.

I hated that the coolant reservoir had no pressure release like other systems.
the radiator has plastic tanks, and an aluminum core. another weak spot, lots of problems with the seal between the plastic and aluminum. over time, the plastic becomes brittle
 
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