Hyundai Forums banner
1 - 20 of 53 Posts

· Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
So I did a thing. I purchased a White 2022 Santa Fe Calligraphy AWD. Great vehicle but I wasn’t satisfied with the location of the rear turn signals on the bumper. I decided that if I’m going to add turn signals that I might as well install ones that can do the sequential signalling. I just finished tonight so here is the video. Let me know what you think.

 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,026 Posts
Looking really good, not a fan of turn signal at the bottom of the bumper on all these new SF design. The sequential signal does add a nice touch to your SF, great job . You should post up links of what to buy and DIY, I’m sure there will be members wanted to do the same mod as you.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 

· Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
My goals of this project were
  1. Increased visibility for turn signals
  2. Not to splice into the factory wiring
I had a hidden hitch installed by my local Uhaul who also installed the 4 flat wiring harness to the vehicle. A hitch is helpful to mount the wiring connections to but not required. If you don’t have a 4 flat connection in your Santa Fe, here is the link to install one yourself.
UHaul trailer wiring harness installation

I used a trailer wiring harness to route the wires to the turn signals. Since the wiring harness integrates the brakes and turn signals, a convertor was required to separate these back out. Of course you can splice directly into the turn signal wires. After taking a look at how hard it is to reach the rear turn signals, I decided the convertor was the way to go for me.

I started by verifying the sequential turn signals worked before installing them. You can connect director to the wiring harness.

Trailer Wiring Harness
Brown: Running lights (bypass curt light convertor)
Yellow: Left Turn Signal (to curt light convertor)
Green: Right Turn Signal (to curt light convertor)
Black: Ground (Negative) (to curt light convertor)

Curt Light Convertor In From Wiring Harness
Left turn
Ground
Right turn

Curt Light Convertor Out to Turn Signals
Left turn
Brake (don’t use)
Right turn

Sequential Turn Signals
White Wire: Running lights (Red)
Yellow Wire: Turn Signal (Sequential yellow)
Black Wire: Ground (Negative)

I ran the wire from the underside of the vehicle up through the spare tire hole into the trunk area. I drilled a hole in the rubber stopper just large enough for the wires to go through.
Note: I do not have a spare tire yet and may have to find another way once I put a spare on the vehicle. If someone finds a better way to do this, let me know.

Now is a good time to reduce from 2 tail light running wires to one. You can route both of them through but this makes hiding the wires much more difficult later and I found it easier to split the tail light wire after getting into the hatch.

Before running the wires into the trunk, it is best to take out the compartment which holds the jack or tire inflator. To do this, first remove the 3 bin storage thingy in front of it if you have one. Take off the cover to the 3 bin storage by simply lifting it out. To remove the 3 bin storage, lift on the side closest to the front of the vehicle a bit and then the rear side will come out when you pull up.

Next you need to remove the storage bin that holds the jack or tire inflator. First take everything out and you will see 3 plastic circles covering up screws. Use a small flat screw driver to pop off the covers and a phillips screwdriver to take out the screws. Now close the top of the compartment and you can pull it out gently as one piece.

Pull the wires through the rubber stopper and into the trunk. Now you need to pop the corner of the trim piece up that is at the bottom of the trunk near the bumper on the right side. This part I found a bit tricky and required a trim tool and enough force that makes you think you might break it. Be careful. Once you have the corner up, you can pull the cable underneath and keep them a few inches from the side so they don’t pinch when you put the trim piece back into place. I routed the 2 wires to the right and 2 to the left. It doesn’t matter which side at this point but my OCD demanded the green wire go to the right and yellow to the left. Hide the wire under the rubber trim and take them up to the center of the inside of the trunk near the cargo light.

Remove the cargo light by using the trim tool. Once it pops down (there are 4 metal clips holding it on) unplug it to provide more room to work.

There are 2 rubber hoses that connect the hatch to the vehicle. The driver's side was full of wires so I chose to use the passenger’s side. Note: The rear window washer hose is inside so be careful not to puncture this.

Pop off the rubber connector by hand which connects the cargo area to the hatch. Feed the wires through the opening between the rubber seal and the headliner, using your hand going through the cargo light opening to pop it out where the rubber connector was at. Do not try to go through the rubber connector yet. Make sure to pull all excess wire out at this point. You will now need to feed the wires through the rubber connector. You will need some sort of wire puller that will not damage the washer hose. I used a piece of flexible, plastic tubing that would bend but also would not easily break. Tape the wires to your wire puller and gently pull through the rubber connector.

Now you need to pop off the trim panel on the hatch. The center trim panel pops off easily with a trim tool if you go slow. Feed the wires into this area and split the brown tail light wire into 2 wires, one for the left and the other for the right.

Next you will need to take off the plastic trim pieces on each side of the hatch. There is one screw on each near the center trim piece that requires a Phillips screwdriver. These 2 trim pieces are held together by 2 or 3 plastic pieces and you will need to push the panel from the back of the car to the front. These are the hardest pieces to remove and I broke 1 clip on each side. Thankfully the trim pieces went back on fine missing half a clip on each side and with the screw holding it in place. Run the wire for each side through the trim area. Once you get to the next trim piece you will see a wire on each side. Before running your wires, pop open the panel that provides access to the tail lights. If you have trouble running the wires here, you may need your wire puller again. Once you have the wires inside, there are 4 bolts to remove the tail lights. I took these completely off but you could probably just back off the bolts to 90%.

Before inserting the new turn signals, you will need to cut them to length. I cut to the shortest length shown by the manufacturer and applied silicone caulk to the end. If I were to do this again, I would cut the light about a quarter of an inch longer and then push the led strip out of the silicone to cut it to the manufacturer’s recommended length. This would give space between the led and the silicone sleeve so that you have more room to put in the waterproofing caulk and would be a cleaner looking install.

Insert the turn signal wire, ensuring the side closest to the black box is towards the center. Snake the turn signal wire up the light and a couple of inches will stick out past the light but will be hidden when the hatch is shut. Put the tail light back in and tighten it back down.

Parts
Sequential Light Kit
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07Z4V2KRC?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

Curt converter to separate brake lights from turn signals
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0046EKPHY?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

Hopkins 4 flat trailer wiring
https://www.amazon.com/Hopkins-4826...=hopkins+4+flat+trailer+wiring,aps,101&sr=8-3

Wiring Connectors (for those who don’t like to solder wires)
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B087PPQTQR/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Electrical Tape
Wire ties

Tools Needed
Trim Pry tool
Philips Screwdriver
Small & medium slot screwdriver
Wire cutters
Wire strippers
Scissors
Headlamp or other light
Small socket set
Heat Gun (optional)
Patience, lots of patience
 

· Registered
2022 Hyundai Santa Fe PHEV Limited Portofino Gray/Black
Joined
·
44 Posts
@Moonbow This is one impressive job. I have a quick question for you. The new turn signals are stuck to the body of the car behind the tail lamp or inserted into the body of the tail light?
Also, can you post some intermediate installation step pics as well.

Thanks
 

· Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #12 ·
@Moonbow This is one impressive job. I have a quick question for you. The new turn signals are stuck to the body of the car behind the tail lamp or inserted into the body of the tail light?
Also, can you post some intermediate installation step pics as well.

Thanks
Hi bs330.

The lights are located just above the taillights, sandwiched in the same opening. There is an adhesive strip with the turns signals but the taillights themselves are what is holding them in place.

I did not take pictures throughout the installation to share but glad to answer additional questions.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
21 Posts
Discussion Starter · #15 ·
@Mit80, here you go.

The right side is cleaner than the left.
When you are up close, you can see a small portion of the turn signal sticking out ever so slightly towards the edge of the hatch but I think most people won't notice.
Automotive tail & brake light Automotive parking light Car Automotive lighting Hood

Automotive parking light Automotive tail & brake light Car Automotive lighting Grille



The color balance on the video is a little off as the stock turn signals are red but have an amber tone in the playback.
 

· Registered
Joined
·
1,026 Posts
Very clean installed, it doesn’t add much to your tail lights and hardly noticeable that it’s even there even during daytime


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
1 - 20 of 53 Posts
Top