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No I don't believe you'll actually hit the shaft itself. It's covered by the inhibitor switch.
What do you think of using a slightly larger shaft 'O'ring compressed between the switch housing and the case? Pack some hi-temp grease in the cavity created before bolting down the switch to seal out the environment.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
Probably better to put a thick grease at the base of the shaft. I could only see water getting in when driving in the rain or snow. Even then it'll be minute amounts. It's taken 10 years of harsh Canadian driving and 200 000km to seize the shaft. I figure after a good cleaning, and lubricating the shaft, it should be good for at least a few years before the fluid breaks down. I don't mind redoing it every say, 2-3 years if needed. Beats having to drop the side pan and changing out the shaft and line etc.


What do you think of using a slightly larger shaft 'O'ring compressed between the switch housing and the case? Pack some hi-temp grease in the cavity created before bolting down the switch to seal out the environment.
 

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Thanks a Million!

I brought my 2009 Sante Fe to the dealer for the frozen shift rod and they said it needed a new transmission! I had already seen your post so I knew that it didn't but since the car was far from home I had it towed to a transmission dealer and they wouldn't spend the time to soak and clean it up and wanted to put a new transmission in! I had to get it towed home and fix it myself and holy cow was that all seized/rusted up. I had to extract the inhibitor switch bolts since one of the places broke them but it is all good now. The inhibitor was so seized on I needed to use a 3ft crow bar to loosen it after soaking it for 3 days. Not an easy job but with patience and care it can be done. Now I know to soak up my other Sante Fe before it happens to that one too. Thanks so much for the PERFECT directions!
 

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Hi I'm new to the forum and running into this issue on my gfs 07 Sante Fe AWB with 2.7L. I can't seem to view the pictures in the original post. They are telling me the same "you need a new trans story" and I'm fairly confident that she just needs the shaft to be freed up. I plan to do this myself and the pictures would be a great help.
 

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Just wanted to add my 2 cents here in case someone else finds this thread.

I've been working on cars (my personal and occasionally friends'- not professionally, as far as doing engine and tranny rebuilds/swaps) for about 20 years but still learned a few things from fixing my family member's 09 Santa Fe 2.7 FWD with 110k miles. Symptoms were similar, check engine light and no start. I replaced the inhibitor switch back in May, it worked fine for about 4 months. Then the car wouldn't stay in drive! I must have played with this, readjusting the inhibitor switch and the linkage for 4 hours cumulative. If I went one way the shifter wouldn't line up and would pop out of drive, if I went the other way the car wouldn't start or P wouldn't show up in the indicator. To my wits end, finally stumbled upon this thread

Lessons learned-
- the key (for my situation) was to do the penetrating oil of the shaft then moving it around. As seen in the attached picture- I did this a few times, each time starting at a different position and spraying PB blaster. A bunch of rust came out! I kept doing this until no more rust came out and then let it sit overnight and did it again.

- Always use the drill bit/5 mm bolt to align the inhibitor switch to the metal "wing" in Neutral and keep it there where tightening both its 10 mm bolts AND the 12 mm linkage nut
I made the mistake of attempting to line it up visually- then when I tightened it down, it must have shifted the position ever so slightly, which brings me to:

- They weren't joking when it was mentioned the inhibitor switch is very touchy- I estimate I adjusted it 1/32" rotation and that was all it took from a no start condition to starting reliably.
 

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Any quick fix

I just posted today in the Tucson JM forum for 05 Tucson, 81k, 2.0L and 10 years in very dry rust free climate. No room for me to do the work described, but then mine seems not as bad as most listed here. What are the chances my local shop can on the 2.0L simply lube the cable and that be the fix? Anyone get lucky and that work, if not and its more complex I'd prefer to take it to the dealer and let a tranny guy do his thing as he's be more familiar. What do you think, local shop or dealer?
 

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I just posted today in the Tucson JM forum for 05 Tucson, 81k, 2.0L and 10 years in very dry rust free climate. No room for me to do the work described, but then mine seems not as bad as most listed here. What are the chances my local shop can on the 2.0L simply lube the cable and that be the fix? Anyone get lucky and that work, if not and its more complex I'd prefer to take it to the dealer and let a tranny guy do his thing as he's be more familiar. What do you think, local shop or dealer?
Never seen cable issue with our cars... always rust / corrosion where selector shaft pass through case gets bound up.. couple adjusters come out and ask to have cable disconnect from arm to show them the shaft is bound up

Dealer level, Hyundai doe not allow us to do internal trans repair, except for couple item,, selector shaft not on list..

We just install Re-Man trans and let Hyundai contractor (Translead) deal with shaft and any case damages if any,,
 

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SBR711--You were correct, it was not the cable as it it very well protected from the elements by the rubber boots, they did seem to lack proper lubrication being an 05, time likely thickened the viscosity, once lubed, moved freely better than new. The bracket where the two cables connect was loose and couldn't be tightened anymore than it was, added a washer and it was tightened and aligned itself perfectly so it would start in Park and now shifts better than new. No rust or corrosion was noted, just an out of alignment(for a unknown reason) bracket. Now if I could just fix my hand brake, my vehicle will be good as new again. Thanks for your help.
 

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Are the images for the original post gone?

My 2008 Santa Fe is at about 270k kilometres and after the car was unused for about ten days the gearshift lever now requires force to move. It will usually not stay in D or P at the first attempt and requires some moving around before it sticks to the wanted position. It seems to be easier to move when I've driven for a while and the engine is warm.

Are there any other things to check or should I just remove the battery and tray and check for rust where the sleector shaft enters the transmission?
 

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tmulsund, if you can still drive and warm it up fully, do that first, get it HOT. Then quickly tear out battery and tray and SOAK that thing down with a good dose of penetrating oil. When I did mine, I made my own out of ATF and Acetone. Patience and time are what is mainly required. Once I got mine freed up after a few days, soaked up as much crap as I could then heaped on my favorite anti rust goo. Here I use Rust Cure 3000 but I guess anything a bit heavier that can be built up would work. Been three years since I did mine, just touch it up with a bit more oil once a year, still silky smooth. To give you an idea how bad mine was, I had to have it towed home finally.
 

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I know I'm late to the party but I have to thank Pawelek, my spirit animal.

I took my 2009 Sante Fe to the dealer with a stiff gear shift (200,000 km) and they wanted $700 to clean the shaft for me (in Ontario, Canada).

I've never touched a car in my life but I broke out my pristine socket set and fixed this no problem by following these instructions. Everything was rusted to **** but the PB Blaster seemed to do the trick. Shifts like butter now.

If I can do it you can, Pawelek is the boss I owe you buddy.
 

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We followed the process that you explained. The Park, Reverse, Neutral, but it will not go into Drive. Any thoughts? I was not able to see the pictures noted above but the explanation was wonderful.
 
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