Hyundai Forums banner

1 - 20 of 33 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
289 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I started a new clean and complete thread to help those that will need it in the future. If your shifter is stuck in P or any other gear for that matter first check your brake lights. If they work, then this is most likely your issue.

Step 1: Remove the battery ( 2 nuts )
Tools required: 10MM socket, Ratchet or 10MM wrench


Step 2: Remove Battery tray ( 6 Bolts ). Once tray bolts are loosened you'll need to lift the wiring clips upward and wiggle the tray out.
Tools required: 12MM socket, 10MM socket, Ratchet, Long extension.


Now you'll see this:


Step 3: Unclip inhibitor switch connector ( Press in the clip to release the connector ).


Step 4: Remove shifter cable nut and 2 bolts holding the inhibitor switch. These should be fairly simple to remove. If your cable nut is seized, spray some penetrant and turn her loose. You shouldn't have any issues with these 3.
Tools required: 10MM socket, 12MM socket, extension, ratchet


Step 5: Remove the selector shaft nut and washer. This will be a tedious process. It took me 2 days because I was afraid of snapping this nut. I recommend you use a wire brush to clean around the nut and soak it with a rust penetrant. Let it sit for a while and gingerly Remove the nut.
Tools required: 14MM socket, Ratchet, extension or impact wrench


Step6: Remove the metal selector wing and inhibitor switch. The selector wing will most likely be rusted to the shaft. You'll have to spray pentrant, tap it with a hammer and wiggle it free. You don't want to bend this part. Take your time. The inhibitor switch will just come up without issue.


Now you will see this:


Step7: Now it's time to lubricate the shaft that is most likely super hard to turn. Grab your favorite rust penetrant and the metal selector wing. What I did is wire brushed all around the shaft. Take your time and make sure you clean all the rust and crap out. Put the metal selector wing over the shaft and use it to turn the shaft while spraying penetrant. I'd highly recommend letting it sit over night to really work it's way into the shaft. After you've done this atleast 5 times, the shaft should move easily back and forth. This is what a cleaned up shaft looks like .


I would highly recommend taking the time to clean up the threads of all bolts and nuts at this time. Also, clean the hole in the metal selector wing and selector shaft threads.

Step8: Assembly time. Put your shifter into N ( neutral ). Install the inhibitor switch, metal selector wing, washer and nut. Do not tighten the nut fully. Install the 2 bolts that hold the inhibitor switch. Do not tighten them down fully. Install the shifter cable nut. Do not tighten the nut fully.

Step9: You will need to find a 5MM bolt or a drill bit that will fit through the metal selector wing and the inhibitor switch alignment hole. Install the bolt like pictured below.


Step9: Tighten down the 2 inhibitor switch bolts ( making sure the switch does not move! ). It is very important that the switch doesn't move at all. If it's a touch out of alignment with the selector wing, the car won't start. Plug the inhibitor switch in. Tighten the shifter cable nut. Tighten the selector shaft nut. I'd highly recommend some anti seize on the selector shaft nut.

Step10: Install battery tray and install the battery. Done!


Extra resources:

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/attachments/cm-2007-2012-santa-fe/327794d1486946603-possible-inhibitor-switch-issue-inhibitor_switch_procedure.pdf

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/cm-2007-2012-santa-fe/538033-possible-inhibitor-switch-issue.html

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/cm-2007-2012-santa-fe/335114-shifter-gear-select-hard-move.html

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/cm-2007-2012-santa-fe/555505-shifter-stuck-park-sigh.html

Here's a diagram of parts:




Special thanks to: @canderson, @Bobbyg9, @hemant1016, @Mycrossover, @jsvob03, @sbr711
If I missed anyone else, my bad. I tried lol.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
17,554 Posts
The alignment tool is 5mm
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
13,339 Posts
Nice job. I would add to grease it with something water repellent. When I encounter things like this I coat them with dielectric grease. It is tenacious, will stay there a long time and water rolls off it like a duck's back.

Very nice write-up!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
339 Posts
Great job; clear pictures w/ descriptive labels and clear narratives

Questions:
- Any danger in the selector shaft (p/n 45940B) falling down and below the detent spring (p/n 45950A) while cleaning it up?
- Is p/n 45266A a washer or the case bushing?
- Does the selector wing (45932B) bottom out on the shoulders of the selector shaft or does the inhibitor switch (45956B) have a spacer bushing in it to prevent the switch from binding when the nut is torqued down?

Noticed all incidents involve early CMs. Wonder if issue has been fixed by redesign, or does 3.5 use a different transmission, or have we not been exposed to the elements long enough for the issue to start showing up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
289 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Very good questions!

Question 1- that sucker isn't moving. I wouldn't take a hammer to it to test out that theory though lol.
Question 2- That's definitely something inside the case. Not 100% sure on what it is. Maybe someone can chime in.
Question 3- the inhibitor switch has a larger bore hole so it sits on the lower portion of the shaft. The selector wing has a smaller bore hole and sits a bit above it. If you look at the photo of the shaft, it's beveled a bit to hold the selector wing.

i believe the 3.5L has a different transmission. Most older model CMs are nearing 10 years of age so I wouldn't be surprised if we get more people with this issue. Hopefully this thread helps future members.

Great job; clear pictures w/ descriptive labels and clear narratives

Questions:
- Any danger in the selector shaft (p/n 45940B) falling down and below the detent spring (p/n 45950A) while cleaning it up?
- Is p/n 45266A a washer or the case bushing?
- Does the selector wing (45932B) bottom out on the shoulders of the selector shaft or does the inhibitor switch (45956B) have a spacer bushing in it to prevent the switch from binding when the nut is torqued down?

Noticed all incidents involve early CMs. Wonder if issue has been fixed by redesign, or does 3.5 use a different transmission, or have we not been exposed to the elements long enough for the issue to start showing up.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
289 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
I was kind of worried about loading the shaft with grease. I guess time will tell. If I do encounter this issue again, I'll make sure to soak the shaft in penetrant and then apply grease to the shaft to prevent any contaminant entry. Fingers crossed that I never have to encounter this procedure again lol


Nice job. I would add to grease it with something water repellent. When I encounter things like this I coat them with dielectric grease. It is tenacious, will stay there a long time and water rolls off it like a duck's back.

Very nice write-up!
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
1,282 Posts
Thanks, Pawalek.. This will help many, especially the ones who haven't run into the problem - yet.

As a dry lubricant/antisieze application, one or two wraps of teflon tape (usually used on pipe threads) can be very good to help put things back together. As a bonus, since it's not wet it won't attract and hold dirt or moisture. It's not only for pipes. It can be used on any threaded fasteners.

.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
339 Posts
DUH! Should have waited till this morning (and awake) to ask the questions 'cause I reread your post and answered my own questions. . .

I now see the pin (p/n 45952A) which probably keeps the shaft from falling through the case bore.

A 2014(?) post by SBR711 described p/n 45266A & 45945 as 'O'rings. Strange the design does not include a case bushing. Was the top 'O'ring still on your shaft under the switch? If missing, could that allow water to be introduced into the case bore and freeze the shaft?


Great job; clear pictures w/ descriptive labels and clear narratives

Questions:
- Any danger in the selector shaft (p/n 45940B) falling down and below the detent spring (p/n 45950A) while cleaning it up?
- Is p/n 45266A a washer or the case bushing?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
225 Posts
Nice! Thanks for taking the time to give back and update us! Definitely add anti-seize or grease for longevity...


Cheers
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
289 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
There was no O ring on mine. Don't quote me, but I don't believe an O ring would seat at the end of the shaft. It would have to be inside, that's my assumption atleast.




DUH! Should have waited till this morning (and awake) to ask the questions 'cause I reread your post and answered my own questions. . .

I now see the pin (p/n 45952A) which probably keeps the shaft from falling through the case bore.

A 2014(?) post by SBR711 described p/n 45266A & 45945 as 'O'rings. Strange the design does not include a case bushing. Was the top 'O'ring still on your shaft under the switch? If missing, could that allow water to be introduced into the case bore and freeze the shaft?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
3,036 Posts
From the photo the inhibitor switch seems clear of the arm being removed. Hence at a loss why disconnecting it is required. My vehicle is used pretty often and wondering if the problem of it tightening up is due to infrequent use?

In other vehicles I have seen the bolts used to hold the battery base extremely well rusted. Always one holding it that won't come out no matter what is done. Nothing short of hacking the plastic will get it out as in one case a clip under with a bolt through was spinning. I am in Canada and removing that is sure to be pretty trying step to even reach the assembly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
289 Posts
Discussion Starter #15
This was done on a Canadian vehicle with 200k km. The bolts will be rusted in our case. More severely then vehicles located south. Rust penetrant is your friend here in Canada.

From the photo the inhibitor switch seems clear of the arm being removed. Hence at a loss why disconnecting it is required. My vehicle is used pretty often and wondering if the problem of it tightening up is due to infrequent use?

In other vehicles I have seen the bolts used to hold the battery base extremely well rusted. Always one holding it that won't come out no matter what is done. Nothing short of hacking the plastic will get it out as in one case a clip under with a bolt through was spinning. I am in Canada and removing that is sure to be pretty trying step to even reach the assembly.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
5 Posts
my mechanic figured it out after the wife's '07 3.3 AWD seized in our garage in D. Managed to get it out of P using the shift lock bypass, but then it wouldn't select D. CAA rolled it out with the help of a 400lb tow driver, and my mechanic did the rest. Your pictures helped me visualise the work effort. It's due for its 250k oil change in a few weeks, and he'll inspect and lube again to make sure it doesn't happen again. I'll also be sure to remove the battery, tray and blow out the area next time I detail the engine
 
1 - 20 of 33 Posts
Top