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2012 Hyundai Sonata GLS 2.4L Auto
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Hi All,


I recently purchased a used 2012 Sonata 2.4 GLS with around 39k miles and today I changed the oil and oil filter for the first time since I have owned the car. I did not think too much about my choice of oil and oil filter thinking that it is better to change the oil and oil filter regularly and on time rather than sweat too much over the brand/type etc. I just went with Napa 5W-20 full synthetic and a Napa platinum oil filter which I often find on special (about $27 for a 5 quart jug plus filter).

Now however I am wondering if that was a good choice or not. I am aware of the potential problems with this engine and the recall etc and I have read many forum threads about the issues. It seems the more I read the more I question my choice. I think the oil is probably OK as Napa full synthetic is supposed to be almost identical to Valvoline which I am told is a pretty good oil. The filter on the other hand I am a bit concerned about. I am wondering if I should have gone with the OEM Hyundai filter or perhaps a Fram Ultra XG9688 which is supposed to be top notch whereas the Napa platinum not as good.

Anyway... if necessary I will just change the oil and/or filter again. Please let me know what you think. Is the oil a reasonable choice? What about the filter? Should I change to the Hyundai filter or perhaps a Fram Ultra XG9688 or something else? If necessary I would change them out sooner rather than later as I want to minimize as much as possible the chances of having the dreaded engine issues.

One thing I will be doing is keeping a really close eye on my oil level and am thinking that I will go with the OCI for severe conditions which is change each 3750 miles... other than that just hope for the best I guess.


Thanks,
Ken.
 

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5w20 is not a good choice. Use a 5w30 or 10w30

Napa Platinum is an excellent choice. Nothing to worry about there.
 
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Hi All,


I recently purchased a used 2012 Sonata 2.4 GLS with around 39k miles and today I changed the oil and oil filter for the first time since I have owned the car. I did not think too much about my choice of oil and oil filter thinking that it is better to change the oil and oil filter regularly and on time rather than sweat too much over the brand/type etc. I just went with Napa 5W-20 full synthetic and a Napa platinum oil filter which I often find on special (about $27 for a 5 quart jug plus filter).

Now however I am wondering if that was a good choice or not. I am aware of the potential problems with this engine and the recall etc and I have read many forum threads about the issues. It seems the more I read the more I question my choice. I think the oil is probably OK as Napa full synthetic is supposed to be almost identical to Valvoline which I am told is a pretty good oil. The filter on the other hand I am a bit concerned about. I am wondering if I should have gone with the OEM Hyundai filter or perhaps a Fram Ultra XG9688 which is supposed to be top notch whereas the Napa platinum not as good.

Anyway... if necessary I will just change the oil and/or filter again. Please let me know what you think. Is the oil a reasonable choice? What about the filter? Should I change to the Hyundai filter or perhaps a Fram Ultra XG9688 or something else? If necessary I would change them out sooner rather than later as I want to minimize as much as possible the chances of having the dreaded engine issues.

One thing I will be doing is keeping a really close eye on my oil level and am thinking that I will go with the OCI for severe conditions which is change each 3750 miles... other than that just hope for the best I guess.


Thanks,
Ken.
Hello. Just wanted to inform you. Napa 5w-20 and 5w-30 full synthetic are blended by Valvoline. At Napa website, scrow down the oil spec. and click the MSDS = Material Safety Data Sheet, This will forward you to the Valvoline Safety Data Sheet. You can save yourself $5 to $8 per 5 qts by purchasing Valvoline Full Synthetic 5w-20 or 5w-30 (API SP /ILSAC GF6A) from a Big Box store

The NAPA filter is like most aftermarket filter with a 9 psi to 15 psi bypass filter. Hyundai engines operate a 40-60 psi Oil pressure, effectively by-passing the filter element. Hyundai/Kia oil filters have a180 psi by-pass filter and silicone back-flow valve. USA/EU HKG filters are made by Mann-Hummel. The filter element is 70+ inches long, provide 90% efficiently at 30 micron and 50%+ filter action from 7-20 micron.

People who recommend aftermarket filters with 9 psi to 15 psi by-pass filter cannot explain why their favorite aftermarket filters are in full by-pass mode, sending dirty oil into the engine at start-up. When an engine is started, the engine oil pressure is at zero and the pump pressure is at 40 psi. This create twice the pressure needed to put aftermarket filters into full filter by-pass.
 

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I just went with Napa 5W-20 full synthetic and a Napa platinum oil filter
I think you're doing fine with those.
If your engine is one of the small percentage with a defect, obsession over fancier oil or filter will not keep it from failing.
I'm using SuperTech synthetic 5w-30 and a Wix (Napa Gold) filter.
I will be doing is keeping a really close eye on my oil level and am thinking that I will go with the OCI for severe conditions which is change each 3750 miles
That's a safe plan.
I'm doing 5000 miles or 12 months, whichever first.
However, with COVID my last change was 3500 miles after 14 months.
 

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Curiosity got the better of me and I looked at a poster I normally set to "ignore" and found this:

"The NAPA filter is like most aftermarket filter with a 9 psi to 15 psi bypass filter. Hyundai engines operate a 40-60 psi Oil pressure, effectively by-passing the filter element. Hyundai/Kia oil filters have a180 psi by-pass filter
[snip]
People who recommend aftermarket filters with 9 psi to 15 psi by-pass filter cannot explain why their favorite aftermarket filters are in full by-pass mode, sending dirty oil into the engine at start-up. When an engine is started, the engine oil pressure is at zero and the pump pressure is at 40 psi. This create twice the pressure needed to put aftermarket filters into full filter by-pass."

The above is utter rubbish! :poop:
 

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Curiosity got the better of me and I looked at a poster I normally set to "ignore" and found this:

"The NAPA filter is like most aftermarket filter with a 9 psi to 15 psi bypass filter. Hyundai engines operate a 40-60 psi Oil pressure, effectively by-passing the filter element. Hyundai/Kia oil filters have a180 psi by-pass filter
[snip]
People who recommend aftermarket filters with 9 psi to 15 psi by-pass filter cannot explain why their favorite aftermarket filters are in full by-pass mode, sending dirty oil into the engine at start-up. When an engine is started, the engine oil pressure is at zero and the pump pressure is at 40 psi. This create twice the pressure needed to put aftermarket filters into full filter by-pass."

The above is utter rubbish! :poop:
Please learn to read NAPA’s own spec. on their oil filter. You do know how to read English?
 

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Take note of message #18.
 

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On every car I ever owned I used aftermarket filters without giving it much thought. They were all American cars. I bought a new Tucson (with the 2.4) and used OEM filters right from the start. They weren't terribly expensive when bought in multi-packs. I like the feel of them. They are the only filter I've seen where they have a plastic wrapper covering the opening to prevent anything fouling them before install. As for the choice of oil, I use 5W20 (as spec'ed) Mobile 1. I wouldn't much hesitate using another brand of synthetic. Or even conventional. I would just change it more often in the latter case. If it is the heat of the summer I would consider using 5W30 but never would I use 10W_ oil. Understanding how multigrade oil works is important. That and more is explained here pretty well.

 

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If it is the heat of the summer I would consider using 5W30 but never would I use 10W_ oil.
My Owner's Manual says 5w20 and 5w30 are okay to use.
I use 5w30 because it offers a slightly thicker oil film and potentially more protection.
The oil cap says 5w20 because of CAFE regulations to maximize fuel efficiency.
The cooling system with its thermostat tends to keep oil temperature within a narrow range winter vs summer.
 

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My Owner's Manual says 5w20 and 5w30 are okay to use.
I use 5w30 because it offers a slightly thicker oil film and potentially more protection.
The oil cap says 5w20 because of CAFE regulations to maximize fuel efficiency.
The cooling system with its thermostat tends to keep oil temperature within a narrow range winter vs summer.
That is a really good point regarding their possible motivation from a CAFE standpoint. And I just stocked up on 5W20, too. Oh, well, it is still pretty new so I figure once it gets older I will use 5W30.
 

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I will use 10w30 in my new theta2. Specifically, I will look for a higher HTHS version. HTHS protects.
Some of us also understand what SAE J300 is and that is the problem with that boobtube video... Someone needs to toss his dry erase board and coloring markers for some real world hands on experience and not the silly meaningless graphs.
 

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Don't sweat the decision. Use any viscosity recommended and an OEM filter that can be had cheap on ebay, and just drive the car.
It's a proven fact that no matter what oil, viscosity, or filter you use, if it's one of the 10% that's going to fail, it won't do squat to protect
the engine from total failure, just a wast of money.
Use Walmart 5-30 synthetic 5 qts $16.00, Costco 5-30 synthetic $13.75, etc. and OEM filter maybe $4 and you'll be good to go.
 

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My Owner's Manual says 5w20 and 5w30 are okay to use.
I use 5w30 because it offers a slightly thicker oil film and potentially more protection.
The oil cap says 5w20 because of CAFE regulations to maximize fuel efficiency.
The cooling system with its thermostat tends to keep oil temperature within a narrow range winter vs summer.
4 items to put on a regular schedule maintenance, every 3-4 yrs.

The first 3 items can cause vacuum or air leaks and cause the Evap. Can. to release extra fuel vapor into your intake and disrupt the A/F ratio. This cause idle wobble and acceleration stubbles. In the worst case it will trip engine service code and emission Evap. Can. Code.

Gas Cap
Oil Filler Cap
Dip Stick O-Rings

The last items to Radiator Cap.

When the radiator cap fails, it lowers the pressure. This can allow the antifreeze to bleed into the overflow tank, tricking you to think you have enough antifreeze. Mean while there is a steam pocket in the heads, causing overheating, head warpage and gasket failure.

All these four items can mimic engine failure and codes. These are very difficult to diagnose. Keep in mind and just put these 4 items on maintanance schedule and replace them every 3-4 yrs.

Best Wishes
 

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Mine have come with the washers. This is just for the drainplug, right?
You're supposed to replace that washer each time, to prevent a leak.
I'm using a ValvoMax drain, which is easier, no wrench.

 
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