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Discussion Starter #21
JSiton - thank you for suggesting assembling the throwout bearing to the pressure plate prior to attaching the transmission - I did just that.....then made sure the fork & bearing were aligned when putting the trans onto the eninge, and it slid right onto the fork - no coaxing needed.

I then put the engine in, and it started right up.

However, it does not seem like the stroke on the clutch cylinder is great enough because it grinds going into reverse.

Is there a proper way to increase the stroke length on the clutch hydraulic cyliner?

I would assume one of two ways this can be done:
1) adjusting the clutch pedal linkage in the passenger compartment
2) more fluid into the clutch cylinder

Looking for your input one last time.

Thanks again,
 

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Glad it worked out for you.

The clutch travel is supposed to be non adjustable. It's a really good idea to simply bleed the whole hydraulic system if you're having problems with it. They get gunked up easy and hang up the clutch, often burning your clutch when there was still lots of life left. I bleed mine often and make sure the fluid stays clean.
 

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Discussion Starter #23
The first thing I will do is bleed the line tonight.

Any other tips?

I have to put transmission fluid in as well. I looked for old posts to verify the location, and they are a bit unclear to me.

I figure there are 1 of 2 places to fill the fluid.

1) sight fill off of the front of the transmission
2) a sight fill that threads in laterally on the car at the top of the tranny

Could the lack of fluid be part of the issue as well?
 

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Discussion Starter #24
It appears to me that the following is the case:

The pressure plate is not taking enough pressure off of the clutch to completely disengage it from the flywheel.

Could this be because the clutch cylinder has adjusted to the wear on the old clutch, and over time has now self-adjusted to the old, thinner cluth?

If so, is there a way to modify this?

Maybe I am way off base, and I am not even in the ball park, but this makes the most sense to me.
 

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I am having the exact same issue as the original poster. I have bolted the trans to the engine but cannot get the bearing to snap into the pressure plate. I am pretty sure its not locking in right because the clutch pedal wont go down far at all and doesnt really have any resistance. I have pushed the lever towards the firewall pretty hard but its just not locking in.

Has anyone else who has experienced this figured out some method to get this thing to lock in without removing the trans agian?
 

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I always take and jiggle the lever to help get feel of the taper nose of bearing center up in the hole.. there is a wire lok ring that needs to get centered up on the bearing' nose taper/ramp.. dont just go hog wild on it, play with it a little bit, maybe even rotate crank to change hang of the lock wire,, but most of the time it'll snap in prety easy, you'll know as the lever wont move hardly after snap into place..

Hopefully you cleaned the release shaft and apply new quality lube to shaft and plastic bushings, along with nose that bearing ride on, and apply new grease to that surface also.. been using MOBIL-1 synthetic grease for the lube points, along with selector moving point where arms meet at trans.

Refill trans using a GL-4 oil only, GL-5 will destroy the brass synchro rings over time.. pony up and use the Hyundai-Kia manual trans oil.

Remove the restrictor from the slave cyinder,, take the banjo bolt off end, and a spring and clover leaf looking thing should fall out, make them fall out into a trash can to be forgotten about.. re-assemble, wipe the black mud out of the resevoir, and flush/refil/bleed with 110% new clean fluid, then change it every couple year.
 

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Ok, bear in mind that the actuator arm will only move a little bit when you press on the clutch pedal. It's not supposed to return too much. If you're saying it won't return, then I tend to think you haven't really pressed on the pressure plate springs too much. It takes a lot of force to move those springs a little bit. Once you've moved those springs, then there's not much to stop them from returning. So I think you won't really know anything until you complete the reassembly and try the clutch.

The other thing I would address is the clutch hydraulic system. They tend to get gunked up and seize the slave cylinder. A lot of times people think their clutch is slipping, when in fact the slave cylinder is hung up. It happened to me, I replaced my clutch, only to find that the clutch was fine, and my slave was hanging up. The solution was to break apart the hydraulic lines, clean out the system and bleed it real good. It might not help you, but I'd certainly do it all the same.
no its obvious you do not know anything about a pull type clutch system...ive had the same trouble with the pull type bearing
 

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LOL... Actually, Jsinton is right on with his description, even if it is 7 years old... What trouble have you had with a pull type clutch.... Everything is quite simple and reliable if installed correctly.
 
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