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Hello - I am going to do a visual inspection of the intake valves for carbon deposits on my 2012 Hyundai Accent SE. I'd like to replace with a fresh intake manifold gasket when finished examining, and perhaps cleaning, the intake valves.

Is there a sealant required for the intake manifold gasket? I am anticipating purchasing a Fel-Pro gasket as the replacement.

Any help would be greatly appreciated.

Also, I am assuming that I'll be able to examine and clean, at least partially, the intake valves with the intake manifold off...correct?
 

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The gasket is all you need. I wouldn't clean the valves that way.
Sea foam does a good job and cleans intake and valves.
You can get it at Amazon or your local parts store should have it.
 
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The gasket is all you need. I wouldn't clean the valves that way.
Sea foam does a good job and cleans intake and valves.
You can get it at Amazon or your local parts store should have it.
Thanks, grcauto!

I already performed the CLC intake valve cleaner but am skeptical that it did a full cleaning which is why I want to do a visual inspection. Thoughts?
 

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Not sure how well CLC works. Sea foam works well and if there's a lot of carbon buildup I let them set for several hours before the final drive cycle.
The thing about removing carbon with a tool is you want to be sure none of the carbon gets into the cylinder. It can cause a piston problem. The carbon can get lodged between the piston and cylinder wall and if it doesn't burn up quickly it can melt a hole through the piston.

If you are bent on cleaning them physically I would recommend turning the engine by hand (crank bolt) until the valve is closed and suck out debris with shop vac.
 

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Intake gasket consist of o-ring type design stuck in groove on manifold flange,, pull old part off, install new, install manifold back to clean cylinder head surface.

Dont recall if 1 piece, or 4 pieces,, not at work to look it up on MICROCAT
 

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I would do it only if you have symptoms like pinging, noticeable decline of MPGs and power output, and you have already tried solvent type treatments that go into the air intake or PCV vacuum line like Seafoam, CRC and Berryman's and they haven't worked to clear these symptoms. You mention trying the CRC treatment (i think). You haven't described the problem -the specific symptom- you're hoping to fix.



I know from looking up and down the interwebz that owners of other GDI cars like VWs, BMWs, Fords, Mini Coopers have found that spray in treatments and "Italian tuneups" haven't been enough for them. Then again these cars seem to have more trouble with deposits and develop them earlier than GDI Accents.



I haven't done this operation myself and I think I'm going to hand it over to a shop to do it. There are some things that you really have to be careful of. I might do this if I can get an old friend who's a mechanic to help me. Otherwise it's for the shop.
 

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Intake gasket consist of o-ring type design stuck in groove on manifold flange,, pull old part off, install new, install manifold back to clean cylinder head surface.

Dont recall if 1 piece, or 4 pieces,, not at work to look it up on MICROCAT
Thank you, that is helpful. According to the photo's I've seen, it is one piece. I'm about to pick it up from AutoZone today.
 

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I would do it only if you have symptoms like pinging, a noticeable decline of MPGs and power output, and you have already tried solvent type treatments that go into the air intake or PCV vacuum line like Seafoam, CRC and Berryman's and they haven't worked to clear these symptoms. You mention trying the CRC treatment (i think). You haven't described the problem -the specific symptom- you're hoping to fix.
The specific symptom is the pre-detonation/pinging noise heard at acceleration or light load while driving. With 93 octane gas, it is hardly, if at all, noticeable. However, with 87 or 89/91 octane gas, and especially on warmer days here in Indiana, it is very noticeable. I just purchased the car (2nd owner) and the Hyundai dealership has not been helpful in diagnosing the problem. In fact, at first, they replaced the rear catalytic converter then they thought that THAT converter was bad so they replaced it again. Once they realized that that didn't work, they said it was a bad rod bearing and the engine needs replaced. I first noticed the pre-detonation/pinging noise at around 81,000 miles. Hyundai won't cover the engine. I took it to another mechanic and they were not able to discern a rod bearing issue. The car now has nearly 87,000 miles with no discernable rod bearing issues. I'm not saying that there isn't something lurking - but I'm pretty sure the dealership is full of s**t. There have been absolutely no check engine lights or codes thrown.

I haven't done this operation myself and I think I'm going to hand it over to a shop to do it. There are some things that you really have to be careful of. I might do this if I can get an old friend who's a mechanic to help me. Otherwise it's for the shop.
I think what I'll do is examine to see what it looks like. If it looks not too bad then I'll try Seafoam. If it looks terrible then I'll go ahead and take to my mechanic.
 

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For anyone: if I'm planning to scrub out the ports and valves, what material brush should be used and what shouldn't be used? I'm concerned that steel wire brushes are going to scratch aluminum parts. Is a brass bristle brush OK or should only nylon brushes be used in there?
 

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Doesn't seem like a rod bearing issue should come and go with hot weather, or change any with high octane fuel, but I'm not a mechanic. Much of what you describe sounds pretty familiar to me. I have 85K miles now and started hearing it (hearing it again actually - it's a long story) maybe 1,500 miles back. Haven't heard the ping in my engine in probably a week. But that's probably the weather.



You might want to press the dealership to make sure the car has fully up to date firmware in its ECU. A firmware update once solved a ping issue for my car. I bought the car new and it had a pinging issue on regular 87 octane gas right from the start. For about the first year I owned it I only put 89 octane gas in and didn't hear any ping. Then I tried to switch to 87 and suddenly found out there was a problem. Car only ever got top tier rated gasoline and good synthetic oil, changed frequently. I tried CRC gdi intake cleaner, etc. and nothing worked. Then Hyundai sent me a recall notice for a ECU update about something to do with the evap system. The car would think that the fuel tank cap was loose when it wasn't. I had never taken it in to complain about the ping with 87 octane. I'd never even taken it in to complain about the evap system either, as the CEL would clear itself before I could schedule an appt. But after their ECU update I could use 87 with no problem. And the problem stayed solved until quite recently.
 

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I don't think you are addressing the issue. Pre-detonation is a result of high cylinder temperatures, lean mixture, HIGH COMPRESSION. The compression problems with engines is due to carbon build up in the combustion chambers and NOT on the backs of the valves.

I've had good success spraying the foam directly into the cylinders and letting them set over night. Put the plugs back in and run it. May take two services to get it good.
In the old days we just poured a mix of mystery oil and water right down her throat with someone inside with the pedal to the metal. Oh man what a smog job those were.
 

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I've had good success spraying the foam directly into the cylinders and letting them set over night. Put the plugs back in and run it.

Did you mean Seafoam - an overnight piston soak with Seafoam?


Probably I should do a piston soak before taking the intake off. I have thought about it, almost did a piston soak with MMO right before my latest oil change but got jammed up with some business.
 

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Did you mean Seafoam - an overnight piston soak with Seafoam?


Probably I should do a piston soak before taking the intake off. I have thought about it, almost did a piston soak with MMO right before my latest oil change but got jammed up with some business.

I used GM top engine cleaner. Been several years since I did one but it works real well. I've heard sea foam does well using it that way also.
Spray it in and crank the engine for a second just to get it on the top of the chamber and then spray a little more and let it set over night. Cleans the carbon real well.
 

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You might want to press the dealership to make sure the car has fully up to date firmware in its ECU. A firmware update once solved a ping issue for my car.
This is a good idea. They owe me, anyway. I'll try this if nothing else works. Thanks!
 

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This is a good idea. They owe me, anyway. I'll try this if nothing else works. Thanks!
For some reason I thought your vehicle was up to date with latest software. I may have assumed that. Definitely make sure the software is up to date first. If it is do the treatment.
 

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I don't think you are addressing the issue. Pre-detonation is a result of high cylinder temperatures, lean mixture, HIGH COMPRESSION. The compression problems with engines is due to carbon build up in the combustion chambers and NOT on the backs of the valves.
This is interesting and a good bit of advice. It makes complete sense to me. I found a YouTube video - is this what you are suggesting? Anything I should be concerned of in advance?

Type this into YouTube, "Piston Head Soak Using Sea Foam" Will this work and is this what you mean?

I've noticed that the service manual suggests an amount of oil that measures very high on the dipstick even when the engine is running and warmed up. If this car had seen chronically high levels of oil for 80,000 miles, do you think there would be more carbon deposits on the cylinder heads than normal?

Finally, would adding SeaFoam to the oil help at all with carbon deposits on the cylinder head?
 

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For some reason I thought your vehicle was up to date with latest software. I may have assumed that. Definitely make sure the software is up to date first. If it is do the treatment.
How would I determine if my software is the most up-to-date version? Do I have to do this at the dealership? Or can I find a way of knowing what version mine is running?

Thank you for all of your help.
 

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How would I determine if my software is the most up-to-date version? Do I have to do this at the dealership? Or can I find a way of knowing what version mine is running?

Thank you for all of your help.
A scan tool can display the version installed.
 

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From what I've seen on the net.. Walnut blasting seems to be the most effective. It's like sand blasting, only you use crushed walnut shells which are far less abrasive. They take off the carbon and leave everything else untouched. Here's one outfit that does it -- > https://www.definitivetuning.ca/intake-valve-cleaning--walnut-blasting-.html

You'd need a home compressor and blasting gun to do this.. Or you'd need to take it to a shop equipped to do it.
 

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They should certainly be checking on the firmware revision as they go, trying to fix your problem. I used to ask about it back when I took my car in for every service interval in the owner's manual, but they would say there's nothing available. I knew 2012 cars were all supposed to get an update from reading here. Eventually Hyundai USA sent me a letter about my 2013. Whether it was the same revision or not and why I didn't receive it after asking about it a couple of times at least, I don't know.


There are lots of threads around here about pinging and the GDI Accent. I'd say dive in to the advanced search function and study up, but most of them just lead nowhere really. Might be helpful to read anyway, to see what people have tried.


I have taken up grcauto's view, for now, that the carbon problem is more likely to be down inside the chamber and cylinder, and so I bought myself a borescope today. I will be taking some pictures of the piston faces and posting them up here - but it will have to wait until next week. It is much easier to check if the pistons are covered in deposits than to check if the valves are. It's also much easier to do an overnight piston soak than to remove the intake and to scrub valves and ports. If pistons look clean through the borescope and a piston soak or two doesn't end the ping, then I know it's not that and the intake will have to come off as the next, logical step.



You can do a piston soak without looking in first with a borescope of course. Probably I should have just done that and saved myself a lot of money.



It's actually been a while since I have heard any ping. Driving around today the engine seemed so smooth and quiet it was hard to imagine the problem coming back. But remembering all those earlier threads about ping, the recurring theme seems to be that whatever people have tried to fix the problem, they are initially hopeful it has done the trick, but soon they realize that the ping went away briefly for unknown reasons and has returned.
 
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