Hyundai Forums banner

1 - 13 of 13 Posts

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All,

My mechanic cleaned my EGR valve around 12 months ago (it was stuck solid) - Afterwards, the engine flexibility, performance and fuel economy all improved.

It feels like it is back to it's old ways though............Is there any way of removing / blanking the EGR without putting a check light on so that it does not cause problems at MOT time?

Steve
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
I'm looking to do something similar.
In the past i have always used a blanking plate between EGR and manifold on other vehicles and this has workedfine.
As our Santa Fe has only been with us for a couple of weeks, i intend to try blanking off the EGR to see if that works or not. Currently getting slight hesitancy at small throttle openings as if engine is holding back and cycling the power, which i think may be EGR problem so need to deal with it soon.
Economy not goood either maybe as a result.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,550 Posts
Try it !

I used to block the EGR on my petrol Vauxhalls in one of two ways - the first ones with EGR were vacuum operated so I just put a ball bearing in the vacuum pipe to stop it functioning - the later ones were electrically operated and would light the EML if the wires were disconnected but we could do it by making a gasket out of an aluminium lager can (yes, really!), using the standard gasket as a pattern but without a hole in it - it worked fine for 80,000 miles.

Sadly one of the later Vauxhalls could detect the lack of flow and put the EML on so the modification had to be removed.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Yes i am fearful of the EML light coming on as a result of the lack of flow, but on the mercedes Cdi engines they use a resistor to fool the sensor into thinking that all is well within the parameters, i think in this case it might be the temperature sensor on the EGR cooler.
Trial and error i'm afraid.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
40 Posts
On Santafe 2.2 liter easily develop valve EGR if he stuck. Remove the intercooler and the electrical part of the valve (solenoid). Electromagnet easily accessible after removing the intercooler , it rests on four screws.
Pressed several times on top of the valve spring plate, after which he will serve another 12 months.The procedure takes 30 minutes maximum.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
30 Posts
Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Currently getting slight hesitancy at small throttle openings as if engine is holding back and cycling the power, which i think may be EGR problem so need to deal with it soon.
Economy not good either maybe as a result.
I have the same symptoms, really not helped by too many short journeys......Please do let me know how you get on!

What sort of economy do you get? You can view mine at
Hyundai Santa Fe 2.2 CRTD Auto (Hyundai Santa Fe) | Fuelly
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Ok, today i removed the egr expecting it to be coked up. It wasn't. It was fairly clean with mild amounts of soot. To be truthful i was disappointed as i genuinely thought this would be the problem.
Whilst i was at it, i thought what the ****, lets block off the EGR. so i got some 1mm thick sheet steel (cut from a boiler casing that was waiting to go to the tip) and using the angle grinder shaped it nicely.
Fitted everything back and let the engine run for 1/2 hour. No warning lights came on, so i took it for a 2 mile drive and up to now no warning lights. It was dark and i had been working outside in the cold for about 3 1/2 hours - windy and sleet would you believe - so just wanted to get inside and a hot bath.
Tomorrow we will see when we get on the motorway, although i could still feel a slight hesitancy as before but not as much......we will see.

Steve, you fuel economy is pretty poor. I am getting about 29 mpg but that is a mix of 50/50 normal/ motorway driving and i am disappointed, i thought about 35 average would be good.

My temperature gauge sits a smidgen below the half mark, is that correct.
I might change the thermostat as a cool running engine uses more fuel as the temperature sender sendsa signal to the ECU to inject more fuel for a cooler engine.
It is a common problem on other cars as well i believe.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,550 Posts
Unclebigbad - you don't say what year your SF is - the temperature gauge on the 2006-2012 model is electronically "managed" - the needle movement isn't linear with the temperature !

I use a ScanGauge II plugged into the EOBD port which gives a digital readout of the engine coolant temperature as seen by all the ECUs - below 55 C, the needle sits on stone cold - between 55 and 75 C, it moves from stone cold to normal - from 75 to 105 C the needle sits motionless on normal (I don't know about over 105 C as I haven't driven it hard enough!

On a diesel, a cool-running thermostat has little effect on normal running - the cold start phase is well below that in temperature.

If you want to play with mixture strength, get a decent tuning chip.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
My SF is a facelift 2006 2.2 model.
I have a BMW 320d and it is legion on the forums about fuel economy suffering as a result of the temperature not reaching thenormal running temp of about 88-90 degrees.
Even though the temperature gauge sits squarely at the half way normal mark, the engine temperature may well be 60 70 degrees but on the BMW there is a procedure you can use to display the ECU monitored temp on the digital display which is very accurate.
Just by changing the theremostat (s) - two on a diesel, one controls EGR coolant, many people have found a massive inprovement in fuel economy.
The same i have found on the Mercedes forums for the cdi engines.

I think i will have to get an external temp gauge .
That Scan gauge sounds impressive, does it measure the boost as well, as i have read that the boost pressure controller that sits on the intercooler can give symptoms such as mine i.e fluctuating power at cruise and gentle acceleration.
Any way of testing the boost controller?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
2,550 Posts
The ScanGauge II can simultaneously display 4 gauge settings - I tend to use engine coolant temp, boost, voltage - there no access to the transmission temperature on the diesel Santa Fe, I've played around with X-Gauge settings but it's clearly different to the US-built petrol engined-versions.

As you may well know, diesels do run very cool unless worked hard - dynamic adjustment of radiator blinds would be ideal to reduce the airflow at low engine loads - but not available.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Ok, so a hundred miles on, there are no EML or other lights on the dash since my EGR delete.
The car runs normally as before.
The issue of hesitancy at cruise and gentle acceleration is still there. I'm wondering if i remove the throttle plate if that will make a difference as a diesel engine does not really need one. I read on this forum with someone having similar symptoms and when the dealer changed the throttle body the problem was resolved.
Part of the throttle body function is to stop exhaust gases returning to the intake system at certain engine speeds and to help swirl/agitation of the air prior to entering the cylinders. As my EGR no longer allows exhaust gases into the manifold this is no longer a problem.
I will have a look sometime as i have previosly removed a throttle plate in a Mercedes diesel quite easily leaving the body in place.
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Ok Update:

Nearly a week on and 400 miles. The EGR delete is working well and so far no Engine Management Lights have come on the dashboard.
So far it seems that the EGR can be blanked off without any other measures being needed.
Fuel economy is about the same or marginally (1-2 mpg better , need to check over a greater distance to be verifiable).
The hesitancy that i had is still there but not so pronounced. I will be looking at the throttle body and TPS sensor which i think is located on the throttle body - can anyone confirm this?
 

·
Registered
Joined
·
7 Posts
Ok, so an update.
The hesitancy did not go away, so i removed the throttle body to have a look and give it a good clean. It was clean enough, so i decided to remove the throttle plate but leave the spindle in place. This is easy as i have done this in the past on a Mercedes.
Basically there are two small tx headed screws with peened over ends to stop the screws coming out. I just unscrewed the screws, it was tight initially due to the peening at the end but became free.
The throttle plate just slides out of the spindle and that is it.

I was expecting a Throttle Position Sensor on the throttle body but there was none as i thought about cleaning it with contact spray.
I put the Throttle body back and have been driving for about two weeks and about 1,000 miles. No fault codes have come up and in the longer run my fuel economy after blanking the EGR and removing the spindle has improved by roughly 1.5 mpg .

Does this engine have a Throttle Position Sensor and if so where is it as i would like to give it a blast with contact cleaner as i am still getting the slight hesitancy at light throttle - but only sometimes.
 
1 - 13 of 13 Posts
Top