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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I know there is a great deal of controversy over this issue..ie. whether it is req'd or not, which is better, etc. But, I believe in it and have been using it for years on my vehicles, with positive results...no rust. Living here where salt and sand is used excessively for the better part of 4-5 months, and that salt rich road spray gets into every possible nook in the car, I can't imagine not having some form of protection applied. But, as they say, diff strokes for diff folks.

Well, I have been a user of Krown, and after some research, have decided to go with a different, not widely advertised product, called Corrosion Free. It is a dripless product that still has the creeping abilities required to get into the nooks and crannies, such as the seams of your doors and panels.

Corrosion Free has been around for a long time. It is applied by Cdn Tire, but I would not take my car to any Cdn tire for any sort of repair or service. I found one of the local independent shops that takes their time and does the job right, although, proof will be in the pudding.

I dropped off my XL this morning. The shop owner is an older gentleman and has been applying for 20 years. He does the work himself and took the time to explain, discuss and answer my questions. He talked about application and what others often miss. I was impressed and at ease leaving my XL with him.

We did talk about drilling holes. Turns out, only 2 will be required...those are in the C pillar to get into the rear quarter panel. The holes will be plugged and will not detract since the SF already has factory plugs in the door to remove the handle. We found access holes in the doors, and he can use the drain holes as well. There are also access holes in the hatch. For the rocker panel, I popped off the plastic/aluminum sills and underneath, there are 4-5 fairly large square holes for the sill trim clips. No need for holes.

He told me NOT to wash the vehicle for a couple of days if possible, especially around the doors and frames, where I might be tempted to wash the product off (which I will because I like keeping my door frames and doors spotless). He said by leaving it, it will allow the product some time to creep into any possible cracks or openings in seams that may not be noticeable without very close inspection. This will allow the product to keep moisture out and prevent rust. Interesting, and makes sense. Krown loves to wash the car to death right after application. Having been a former Krown user, I know a good soap and mitt will take the stuff off rather easily.

He did mention the impact on weatherstripping. Some have suggested that rustproofing products swells the rubber and the shop owner said that any petroleum product, if left on rubber long enough, will swell rubber. He mentioned that some "other" products have the tendency to impact weatherstripping significantly because of the product itself, and often it is applied so quickly and without care to avoid it. Also, these other providers generally don't tell its customers to wash the weatherstripping. I must admit, I don't recall ever been told by Krown to wash my weatherstripping...not sure about other companies or products. Nevertheless, I am so anal with my car, all my weatherstripping got washed anyway. My vehicle washes always include opening the doors and washing the pillars, rocker panels and the door frames. So I have never had an issue with my weatherstripping, but there are pics on the web showing damage to weatherstripping.

Picking up the XL later this afternoon, and will post my thoughts on the job performed. Of course, I will not be able to attest to the effectiveness of the product since only time will tell.

Anyway, sorry for the long post. Just thought I would share my experience with this since there is not nearly as much web info on Corrosion Free as there is on Rust Check or Krown.

Stay tuned....
 

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Neither are approved by Hyundai. Only the ValuGard products are tested and approved by Hyundai.Hope you don't have a warranty issue down the road.
 

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Interesting. I am going to get my grand am sprayed this afternoon, I've been putting off the santa fe but I have to do it in the next couple of weeks. I'll go Krown. I still believe if it isn't dripping it's not working. Not sure how it could keep but not Drip. Its good news on the lack of holes though. I plan on having Krown mark all proposed hole locations before drilling.

Where do they go in for the front fenders? I see all that insulation in there.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Neither are approved by Hyundai. Only the ValuGard products are tested and approved by Hyundai.Hope you don't have a warranty issue down the road.
Never heard of it. Perhaps it is true for US. I have used Krown for years on many cars and never have had any dealer complain. If anything, they appreciate it since the reduced corrosion facilitates removal of bolts etc. I'm not worried one bit.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Interesting. I am going to get my grand am sprayed this afternoon, I've been putting off the santa fe but I have to do it in the next couple of weeks. I'll go Krown. I still believe if it isn't dripping it's not working. Not sure how it could keep but not Drip. Its good news on the lack of holes though. I plan on having Krown mark all proposed hole locations before drilling.

Where do they go in for the front fenders? I see all that insulation in there.
Yeah, but I have read that Corrosion free still creeps. If it is anything like the thicker Rust Check product (green can at crappy tire), I can attest to that. Apply it to some of my equipment (eg. snowblower) and works well. I'm just tired of the constant mess with Krown. The hatch on my Highlander would still drip on really hot days 3 years after Krown application. Anyway, we'll see!!

As far as front fender, not sure....forgot to ask to be honest.
 

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Neither are approved by Hyundai. Only the ValuGard products are tested and approved by Hyundai.Hope you don't have a warranty issue down the road.
I specifically asked if an aftermarket rustproofing would void warranty. The answer was no. Now if it started to rust at the drill site that'd be a different story.

I can't see how it won't Drip but it will run. The unfortunate part is luck, you as well as most others will not own it long enough to prove it works well.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
I specifically asked if an aftermarket rustproofing would void warranty. The answer was no. Now if it started to rust at the drill site that'd be a different story.

I can't see how it won't Drip but it will run. The unfortunate part is luck, you as well as most others will not own it long enough to prove it works well.
Dripping is not a prerequisite for creep. You say run, I say creep. Although it seems like an insignificant distinction, it is in fact, very important. Running is exactly what Krown does, because of its very liquid like consistency. I swear most of the product drips right off the vehicle anyway. Corrosion free has a slightly thicker consistency, just enough not to allow it to "run" like Krown, but it still slowly creeps on surfaces and into seams.

I have both types of Rust Check from Cdn Tire in my garage: the reddish one that is very similar to Krown in consistency, and the green, which is more like corrosion free. I have used both, and both creep just as well. The difference is red rust check (like Krown) is like water...it runs down right a way and keeps going. The green rust check goes on in a yellowish foam, creeps a bit then thickens slightly, just enough so to prevent the dripping that one would see with Krown. This however, does not prevent it from creeping slowly into nooks and crannies because, like any oil based product, it will creep. If you still doubt, try getting a can of the green rust check and try it out yourself. Now is it totally drip-less? Unlikely. Gravity will always have it's way on anything that has sufficient mass (ie...if applied to thick in one particular area). But not even close to Krown.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
Update: Corrosion Free Application Initial thoughts

Picked up my car and had a look quickly with the shop owner. He pointed out everything he did. I did forget to ask about the front fender again...I was in a **** rush and running late. But I have no doubt he got to it simply because he too the initiative to drill two more holes in the hatch area to ensure the rear quarter was well coated. Due to the shape and the length, he was worried spraying from the one side would not get everywhere. The plugs are much smaller than what I had from Krown...about the size of a dime. Hardly noticeable. They also look better than the cheapo plugs Krown had, although, Krown may have changed, and materials used could vary shop to shop.

Application was great. He did not just randomly spray everything in sight like the local Krown shop would do. Use to drive me nuts how they used to make a mess. Geez, they use to even spray my plastic wheel wells and my mag wheels!! Right, were they worried the plastic would corrode? And, did they not think I would wash it all off my wheels anyway? What's the point of that other than making a mess and having me clean it up? Morons. It really does matter who is doing the work. Anyway, you can see how he targeted application on any surface, joint or connection point where moisture could penetrate (like hinges, bolts, seams etc.). He did not just spray every painted surface in sight.

I was in a rush and did not have a chance to check further. I will take a closer look later and if I'm up to it, I'll take a few pics.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Well, had a closer look at my XL tonight while reinstalling the sills and plugs, and I must say, I am disappointed.

First, and foremost, I noted that where there was overspray of product on my paint (eg...top of my front fenders) it was wiped away with a rag. Result? Fine scratches. I mean, what the heck do you expect? Car has some dust and minor dirt particles on it, you spray rust proofing, then you wipe it off...all that's happening is grinding the fine particles into the paint. God knows if the rag was clean. I only checked one of my fenders, but there are other spots on the vehicle where the overspray was "wiped". I am hoping I don't find those areas full of scratches. Partly my fault for not telling not to touch the paint with anything. This really bothers me because I take such care to keep my vehicles in pristine condition.

I checked the front fenders. There are openings to access, but found in both that spray was lacking. Furthermore, on the passenger side, I can see a whole area that is adjacent to the door (ie the vertical end of the fender next to the passenger door) that has zero rust proofing on it.

He did seem to get down to spots that one might normally miss, like rad mounting points etc, but the fact that he missed some areas like that, leaves me wondering what else was missed. He did avoid unnecessarily spraying plastic etc, and kept it off the majority of the weatherstripping.

From a drip perspective, claims are true. Parked it on the road when I got home around 5:30. Pulled it in the garage around 10:45. There were some drip marks on the road, but I would say about 5% of what I see in front of my neighbours houses that had Krown or similar product applied....the freggin road is just covered in spray that has darkened the asphalt all along the front of their houses. In my garage, only a couple of very small drips.

Anyway, I wish I had a more positive report, but it is what it is. I am going to call him tomorrow.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Yeah I watched an application of corrosion free and I was very skeptical. I think I'llstick with mmy Krown and deal with the mess.
Don't get me wrong. I much prefer the corrosion free product to Krown. This is a "application" issue, not a product issue, and there is no guarantee a Krown applicator would have hit all the spots either.

The owner of this shop is older and must have thought he was doing me a favour by wiping the over spray off my paint. Unfortunately, did not get a chance to call today. That said, on my 2000 Subaru Outback, Krown made a mess with their "wash brush" when the cleaned my car after the application. I guess keeping the brush clean was not top of mind for this Krown operation. The "brush" left swirls all over the place that required buffing out. From then on, told them to clean ONLY the glass after application so I could see to drive home, and I would wash the car myself.

Issues aside, I am still don't regret not going with Krown.
 

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Don't get me wrong. I much prefer the corrosion free product to Krown. This is a "application" issue, not a product issue, and there is no guarantee a Krown applicator would have hit all the spots either.

The owner of this shop is older and must have thought he was doing me a favour by wiping the over spray off my paint. Unfortunately, did not get a chance to call today. That said, on my 2000 Subaru Outback, Krown made a mess with their "wash brush" when the cleaned my car after the application. I guess keeping the brush clean was not top of mind for this Krown operation. The "brush" left swirls all over the place that required buffing out. From then on, told them to clean ONLY the glass after application so I could see to drive home, and I would wash the car myself.

Issues aside, I am still don't regret not going with Krown.
Its very easy to make sure all the correct places are sprayed and accessed, all you have to do is watch the application. This becomes easier having done some spraying in my younger years but research and a little common sense would serve as knowledge enough. Don't feel bad about asking to have more applied where it's necessary.

I never let them wash the car after, just spray the soap and rinse it off. That said, you could spend a whole weekend repairing swirl marks, especially on a black car and the next time you wash it the spider webs come back. Just part of owning a dark car.

As far as the product, Krown has been tested and succeeded over the past 25+ years in my family and although I was curious enough to investigate the corrosion free and even rust check over the Krown, there is a reason Krown and to a slightly lesser extent rust check can be found on every other corner and corrosion free not so much. It may or may not work, but considering they've been around for 18yrs, I could not find one long term success story. On a side note I did find many stories of rusted rust check cars. Maybe one to avoid.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Its very easy to make sure all the correct places are sprayed and accessed, all you have to do is watch the application. This becomes easier having done some spraying in my younger years but research and a little common sense would serve as knowledge enough. Don't feel bad about asking to have more applied where it's necessary.
Really? Sorry, but are you watching over the applicator's shoulder? Really have to disagree. I have watched Krown spray through their glass over the years and even watching from their window, there is no way you can see every angle to make sure they sprayed in every nook. Unless you are in the bay while they do it so you can duck down, peer under the car, over over into the engine bay, down under the door, what you're saying doesn't make sense. You may see general areas where the wand goes, but when it goes down into the engine bay or under the car or behind a door, you can't really see what they are doing.

I never let them wash the car after, just spray the soap and rinse it off. That said, you could spend a whole weekend repairing swirl marks, especially on a black car and the next time you wash it the spider webs come back. Just part of owning a dark car.
First, I have never been able to remove Krown off the paint with just spraying soap and rinsing. It's oil. You need to use a wash mitt in a VERY soapy bucket to get the stuff off properly. Second, this is my 2nd black car, and proper washing and maintenance procedures and good wax products will prevent swirls or spider webbing. My XL is 6 months old and the paint is in pristine condition (at least before the rust proofing :mad:).

As far as the product, Krown has been tested and succeeded over the past 25+ years in my family and although I was curious enough to investigate the corrosion free and even rust check over the Krown, there is a reason Krown and to a slightly lesser extent rust check can be found on every other corner and corrosion free not so much. It may or may not work, but considering they've been around for 18yrs, I could not find one long term success story. On a side note I did find many stories of rusted rust check cars. Maybe one to avoid.
As, I have said, I have used Krown for many years and never had a problem with rust...but lots of dripping and mess. Although it worked for me, I had had enough. Krown made it impossible to keep my car clean to my standards, or do a good detail job because the stuff would always wick out on the water when rinsing the car (I could see the oil on the surface of the water as it ran off the car...like an oil slick).

Ultimately, any product that keeps moisture away from the metal will work to prevent rust. But over the years, I have read people complaining about rust issues even though they used Krown. Regardless of the product, if the application is not done right, then it won't make a difference. And there are MANY posts of about some Krown locations doing really crappy work.

Anyway, Krown works for you and you don't mind the constant drip and mess, the stick with it.
 

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In my experience, sand build-up was the "cause" of rusting.

When sand builds-up then gets wet, it produces a slight electric charge when in contact with metal. This in turn causes the metal to rust.

Removing the wheel well covers to get at the sand works great, it is a hassle but worth it.
 

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Really? Sorry, but are you watching over the applicator's shoulder? Really have to disagree. I have watched Krown spray through their glass over the years and even watching from their window, there is no way you can see every angle to make sure they sprayed in every nook. Unless you are in the bay while they do it so you can duck down, peer under the car, over over into the engine bay, down under the door, what you're saying doesn't make sense. You may see general areas where the wand goes, but when it goes down into the engine bay or under the car or behind a door, you can't really see what they are doing.



First, I have never been able to remove Krown off the paint with just spraying soap and rinsing. It's oil. You need to use a wash mitt in a VERY soapy bucket to get the stuff off properly. Second, this is my 2nd black car, and proper washing and maintenance procedures and good wax products will prevent swirls or spider webbing. My XL is 6 months old and the paint is in pristine condition (at least before the rust proofing :mad:).



As, I have said, I have used Krown for many years and never had a problem with rust...but lots of dripping and mess. Although it worked for me, I had had enough. Krown made it impossible to keep my car clean to my standards, or do a good detail job because the stuff would always wick out on the water when rinsing the car (I could see the oil on the surface of the water as it ran off the car...like an oil slick).

Ultimately, any product that keeps moisture away from the metal will work to prevent rust. But over the years, I have read people complaining about rust issues even though they used Krown. Regardless of the product, if the application is not done right, then it won't make a difference. And there are MANY posts of about some Krown locations doing really crappy work.

Anyway, Krown works for you and you don't mind the constant drip and mess, the stick with it.
Funny you should ask, in fact I show up right from work in my boots and glasses and do indeed go into the bay as they spray. I inspect the bottom before it comes down, and have them touch it up as need be. If you're friendly about it most guys don't mind. As a matter of fact if they know you're a mechanic they tend to relate and spend more time doing it properly.

Also to wash the oil off, use dish soap for the first couple washes then go back to the car soap.
 

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Discussion Starter #16
UPDATE - Corrosion Free Rust Proofing

Completely forgot to provide an update.

So I approached Joe at Holliday Auto Centre (Ottawa) about the issues I had, and am embarrassed to say, I kinda screwed up re missed areas. It turns out, after sticking my hand and wiping with my finger, there was in fact product on the metal. As far as the inside front fenders, there too there was product. I don't know if the light in my garage gave the impression that there was no product or what, but it was there...quick wipe proved it. Nevertheless, I felt perhaps there could have been more, so Joe gave me a can of Corrosion Free gratis. When I recently swapped my wheels/tires, and had them off, there were areas around the top of the strut, control arms etc that had always been dry with Krown applications, yet Joe had gotten them all. The more and more I have looked around my car, the more apparent it is that he spent a good amount of time getting all the nooks and crannies.

W.r.t. the scratches, Joe admitted that he wiped with a clean rag because he did not want the drips to be on the vehicle when picked up. He understood my point that wiping if there was dust or dirt on the paint will act like sandpaper. And he took accountability, which truly demonstrated his honesty and professionalism. He asked me to go to the dealer and get a quote to have scratches buffed. I went to detailer instead because a dealer would charge an arm and a leg. Sent the quote to Joe and he sent me a cheque to cover the cost. Amazing.

The product. Well, it certainly moves around. A week after application, I got caught in rain. The next day, my car dry in the garage, I noticed that it was completely covered in a film of rust proofing. I guess excess from seams and under hood etc got pulled by the rain and wind. Not nearly as thick as initial application, so it washed off easily. Subsequent drives in the rain showed less and less product on the car. I have also seen some product seep out of drain holes and such and coat areas weeks after application, and areas that had been previously cleaned (hatch, bottom of door), which tells me that this stuff is still moving, but not enough to make a total mess of my garage or driveway or drip out onto bumper etc. For that, I am extremely pleased. Only time will tell how well it prevents rust, but I have no doubt it will be at least as good Krown.

So, all in all, it has been an interesting experience, but I can say, in summary, that I am very pleased with Corrosion Free because it seems to be doing what it should (creeping and moving) without the complete mess of Krown or other similar products. This, for me, has put the nail in the Krown coffin. I will never go back to that mess.

I am also very happy with the application performed, as well as the honesty and professionalism of Joe at Holliday Auto Centre. I will definitely go back for any future applications, would strongly recommend him to anyone serious about having the job done right, by someone who is a little older and more experienced. Next time, I will have to remember to remind him how anal I am and not to wipe or clean the exterior of my car afterwards. :)
 

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I use Corrosion Free as well.

BUT stay away from Canadian Tire to have it applied. I have a thread in the GT forums where the Cdn Tire guy ran out of Corrofion Free, then got some yellow Rust Check off the shelf and applied it all over my white car. What a mess.

Here is my thread:
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/269-g...afely-undo-mess-canadian-tire-did-advice.html

I am going to Robinson Automotive for now on...you made a good call to bring it to a small shop.
 

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I'm glad it worked out for you. I hope it works, but in all my searching I could not find a report that supported or disputed the products effectiveness. I went with Krown. Yes the mess is a hassle, but for almost 30 years my family has been using Krown it's proven itself with me.

Is it a yearly application as well?
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I'm glad it worked out for you. I hope it works, but in all my searching I could not find a report that supported or disputed the products effectiveness. I went with Krown. Yes the mess is a hassle, but for almost 30 years my family has been using Krown it's proven itself with me.

Is it a yearly application as well?
To be honest, I have found no "official" independent report for ANY rust product in Cda other than one done by DND. It seemed to suggest Corrosion Free worked best. But I took that with a large grain of salt as well.

Even with Krown or Rust Check, "reports" are anecdotal....from people using the product and their perception of how well something works or doesn't. Quality of application also plays a huge role. And it goes both ways....both have good and bad "reports" by users. I used Krown and it seemed to work for me...its the on-going dripping and mess I can't stand.

Agree, Corrosion Free seems to be less known and perhaps the distribution channel (mostly Cdn Tire stores) has something to do with that. I know I am stereotyping and generalizing, but most who take their cars to Cdn tire are not likely enthusiasts and in turn, unlikely to post on such forums, either good or bad. (no offense to those that may use Cdn Tire!)

I found out about Corrosion Free by scouring the internet and read some posts by a group of enthusiasts that live in Montreal area and come to Ottawa (Holliday Auto Centre) to have their vehicles done. Positive reports and the no-drip was enough to get me to try it, and glad I did.

Application is every 18 months.
 

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Yep 18 month application which helps with hassle and cost.

CF is supposed to be good for the rubber too:
What is so special about Corrosion FREE?
Formula 3000 with CSC850 is clean, clear, drip-free, solvent-free, odor-free, non-toxic, a super lubricating metal conditioner with creeping and penetrating benefits - all in one formula. It is not a sealant that traps moisture, or an oil spray that rots rubber, damages plastic and tend to be messy and drippy. It contains active moisture displacers that last up to 18 months. Because it is clean and transparent you can actually see it preserving the original "factory new" appearance. It does not dry out, chip or peel off and its lubricating benefits continue indefinitely.
A colleague of mine mentioned Corrosion Free after he had a bad experience with Krown. On his Toyota, he had Krown applied and it actually stained the rubber bud guards on his car. He complained to the guy who applied it, and got nowhere...in the end, the Automobile Protection Association bought new mudflaps for him as the APA offers a guarantee for services they suggest, and the APA suggests Krown as a rustproofing product. My colleague wonders if the guy applying the Krown had a bad batch, or was using the bottom of a tank, etc. There are sporadic reports of Krown messing up rubber and such, but with the popularity of Krown I would think it is safe to use...just messy.
 
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