Nothing special, pull the old stuff off,, just a few things you need to keep eye on when prepping for re-assembly2003 Elantra GT (hatch):
I am wanting to replace my rear rotors.
ok,, is there a specific reason why ?
I'm pretty sure the pads have decent life in them.
Going to have to do visual of them.. new is typically 10mm friction material, half is 5mm, 3 & 4mm is gettiing close to replacement time.
Can anyone give suggestions for a newbie on how best to do it?
Remove wheel, remove caliper, remove mount bracket, knock pads out of bracket, clean rust out from under the steel shims that pads fit into so new pad slide in easily and able to move.. you'll need caliper piston tool to rotate and push piston back into caliper body at same time, and note the 4 slots on piston face... has to have slot at 6 o'clock to index bump on new pad when re-assemble.
Possibly also recommend a decent replacement?
Rotors about the same no matter what, they just cast iron disc for pads to grab and stop rotation.
Pads, OE, or good name brand is all you need..
Wagner Thermo-Quiet seems to be a decent all-around pad.. just make sure they a recognized name in the industry,, you dont want an inexpensive set of Moe's, Larry, or Curlies pads.
Advance auto sells quite a few different brands. I have Wagner pads/rotors/drums on the front and rear, on my car and my wife's car and they have been great for the last 10k+ miles.Dont get your rotors from advance autoparts .... I did , big mistake . Hole for the securment screw dont line up and they started vibrating after 8000 miles , never AGAIN !!!
if you're talking about the small flathead screws on the rotors, those are not necessary. they are there to hold the rotors on during assembly in factory - think of rotors falling off as the assembly line moves.Dont get your rotors from advance autoparts .... I did , big mistake . Hole for the securment screw dont line up and they started vibrating after 8000 miles , never AGAIN !!!