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Discussion Starter #1
2003 Elantra GT (hatch):

I am wanting to replace my rear rotors. I'm pretty sure the pads have decent life in them. Can anyone give suggestions for a newbie on how best to do it? Possibly also recommend a decent replacement?
 

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2003 Elantra GT (hatch):

I am wanting to replace my rear rotors.
ok,, is there a specific reason why ?

I'm pretty sure the pads have decent life in them.
Going to have to do visual of them.. new is typically 10mm friction material, half is 5mm, 3 & 4mm is gettiing close to replacement time.

Can anyone give suggestions for a newbie on how best to do it?
Remove wheel, remove caliper, remove mount bracket, knock pads out of bracket, clean rust out from under the steel shims that pads fit into so new pad slide in easily and able to move.. you'll need caliper piston tool to rotate and push piston back into caliper body at same time, and note the 4 slots on piston face... has to have slot at 6 o'clock to index bump on new pad when re-assemble.

Possibly also recommend a decent replacement?
Rotors about the same no matter what, they just cast iron disc for pads to grab and stop rotation.

Pads, OE, or good name brand is all you need..
Wagner Thermo-Quiet seems to be a decent all-around pad.. just make sure they a recognized name in the industry,, you dont want an inexpensive set of Moe's, Larry, or Curlies pads.
Nothing special, pull the old stuff off,, just a few things you need to keep eye on when prepping for re-assembly
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks sbr. It's a bit of a long story as to why I want to replace them...

I'm getting vibration in the steering wheel with light-to-moderate braking. A couple of weeks ago I took it into a shop because of a harsh noise coming from the rear driver side and the mechanic thought it was the rotor. However, the next day I realised the noise was actually from a failed strut (the coil pushed the seat into contact with the tire) and because the first mechanic was closed I took the car to a different mechanic. I noticed the vibration after all of that.

Although the brakes worked fine, both mechanics commented that the rear rotors needed replacing due to rust so I doubt either will fess up to doing something (if anything). So, I figure for what would be about the cost of getting it checked out again I could just replace the rotors myself.

Good plan?
 

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Vibration felt in steering wheel (shake/rocking) is indication of excessive rotor face run-out at front..

Rears are horrible for keeping the friction faces wiped clean, so they grow over with rust and the rough "gator skin" surface or 2 wide rust rings wiith wipe in middle makes noises and grinds up the pads in short order
 

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Discussion Starter #5
So should I replace both front and rear rotors? Replacing the fronts seems like it'd be cheaper than getting them refaced. They're not new but not nearly as rusty as the back.
 

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Dont get your rotors from advance autoparts .... I did , big mistake . Hole for the securment screw dont line up and they started vibrating after 8000 miles , never AGAIN !!!
 

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Dont get your rotors from advance autoparts .... I did , big mistake . Hole for the securment screw dont line up and they started vibrating after 8000 miles , never AGAIN !!!
Advance auto sells quite a few different brands. I have Wagner pads/rotors/drums on the front and rear, on my car and my wife's car and they have been great for the last 10k+ miles.
 

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Dont get your rotors from advance autoparts .... I did , big mistake . Hole for the securment screw dont line up and they started vibrating after 8000 miles , never AGAIN !!!
if you're talking about the small flathead screws on the rotors, those are not necessary. they are there to hold the rotors on during assembly in factory - think of rotors falling off as the assembly line moves.

as far as vibrating...well that could be a few issues. wheels not torqued properly since its the wheels that hold the rotors down tightly, seized caliper, improper pad install or using old trashed pads, or yes even crappy rotors.
 

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If you replace a rotor or drum DO NOT reuse the old pads or shoes. You will ruin your new rotor/drum. Also make sure the star adjuster in the rear is adjusted correctly initally. The read drum should bind just a bit and then you back off 2 notches so that it is free.
 
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