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Discussion Starter #1
I was planning on changing my 2006's upper control arms due to the damned squeaking noise they have been making since about 65K miles (now at about 100K) because I can't handle the wife complaining about it any more. Frankly, I don't like it either. I was going to use the nice write up I found on this forum to take care of the issue, with the new Beck Arnley arms ready to go.

So I took the tire off and I see this mess of a rubber tear, some stuff came off in my hand. I'm figuring that this is not a deal killer since the only time it would come into play would be when the spring compresses fully. Am I right or should I replace the part? Do they even sell that rubber gasket by itself? BTW, I was the one that replaced the front struts at about 65K mile on the advice of the Hyundai dealership mechanic - to stop the squeaking noise....:mad:



I did take a picture of the left bushing on the upper control arm - drivers side. That tear confirms it needs to be replaced.



Should I replace the upper coil rubber covering while I'm replacing the UCA, or is it a non-issue?

Many thanks in advance for your advice.

Islander
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Went ahead and replaced both upper contrl arms. The wife will be happy tomorrow, no more squeaking, though now I can hear light clunks, maybe because the loud squeaks were masking them. Anyway, it was a very simple process:

1- Jack car, put on jackstand, remove tire. Use bottle jack to keep suspension/spring in place.
2- Remove kotter pin and then the 17mm nut with air wrench.
3- Separate the knuckle using a pickle fork.
4- Remove the 14mm bolts with an open box wrench using a 3ft pipe of 1.25" diameter as a breaker bar.
5- Remove old arm
6- Install new arm
7- Install the 14mm bolts hand tight only.
8- Install the 17mm nut and kotter pin.
9- Tighten the 14mm bolts.
10 - Put tire back on, lower car and test drive.
11 - Repeat on other side. Total time for both: 1.5hrs.
 

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Thanks for the write-up! I'm attempting my UCAs tomorrow based on the extensive write up in these forums also. 2 questions for you: 1. Did you really need the pickle fork? 2. What brand UCAs did you go with?
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Thanks for the write-up! I'm attempting my UCAs tomorrow based on the extensive write up in these forums also. 2 questions for you: 1. Did you really need the pickle fork? 2. What brand UCAs did you go with?
I already had the pickle fork, it made my life easier and made quick work of separating the tie rod from the arm. Three whacks from the small sledgehammer is all it took. You can rent one from your FLAPS for free with a deposit. Or you can use said sledgehammer repeatedly on the tie rod end and risk bad things happening.

Per the original write-up's OP, I went with Beck Arnley parts. They looked identical to the ones I took off. Got them both for $88 including shipping. PM me if you need vendor info, I don't know if I can post that here.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Edits to the steps below
Went ahead and replaced both upper contrl arms. The wife will be happy tomorrow, no more squeaking, though now I can hear light clunks, maybe because the loud squeaks were masking them. Anyway, it was a very simple process:

1- Jack car, put on jackstand, remove tire. Use bottle jack to keep suspension/spring in place, otherwise the suspension will slowly drop and the coils will block your access to the UCA's 14mm bolts.
2- Remove the tie rod kotter pin and then the 17mm nut with air wrench (a breaker bar will also work, I have air tools).
3- Separate the knuckle using a pickle fork or any other suitable method.
4- Remove the 14mm bolts with an open box wrench using a 3ft pipe of 1.25" diameter as a breaker bar.
5- Remove old arm
6- Install new arm
7- Install the 14mm bolts, hand tight only.
8- Install and tighten the 17mm nut and install kotter pin on the tie rod.
9- Tighten the 14mm bolts.
10 - Put tire back on, lower car and test drive. recheck bolt tightness.
11 - Repeat on other side. Total time for both: 1.5hrs done deliberately with the right tools.
 

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Well, I did both my arms yesterday. Went off without a hitch. The first side ball joint was a little tougher, but the pickle fork helped a lot. Thanks for your write up.
 

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Most oem strut mounts / struts (in my personal experience anyways) don't really last over 80 to 100k....save a lot of time by changing both strut mounts AND UCA's during strut/shock replacement. Save you a lot of money too.
 
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