[iceroo7]

This is for a 2004 Accent.

I'm trying to get this fixed for my girlfriend as we've both been laid off and can't really afford to take it to a dealer at the moment. The positive cable post has corroded to the point where it was almost impossible to take off, needless to say it took quite some time to finally get it off the battery itself. I drive a Neon myself and the posts theirs are simple to replace, the Accent however has this caplike piece that clamps down on the battery terminal and it was completely corroded on the inside.

I'm thinking the little piece that was inside the cap isn't even supposed to come off in the first place but rather just loosen and tighten on the battery terminal. I hope I'm wrong about that.

Anyway, I went to a hyundai dealer and they sold me the entire positive battery cable. I'm really hoping one of you can tell me how to replace the cable and how hard it is to replace the cable or offer a link to a nice diagram because from looking at the cable alone it doesn't appear to be the easiest task in the world. Or would I simply be better off taking this to a shop to have it replaced?

Thanks!

 

[ericbrooks269]

You can go to hmaservice.com and register it doesn't cost any money. Go to shop and you can pull up your cars repair manual. I'm not to sure why you want to replace the entire positive cable. Why don't you just go to the auto parts store and buy a new terminal. You would just have to cut the old one off and strip the cover off of some of the wire. Then simply put the wire into the new terminal and tighten it down.

 

[sbr711]

QUOTE (eric brooks @ May 24 2010, 08:06 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=325974

You can go to hmaservice.com and register it doesn't cost any money. Go to shop and you can pull up your cars repair manual. I'm not to sure why you want to replace the entire positive cable. Why don't you just go to the auto parts store and buy a new terminal. You would just have to cut the old one off and strip the cover off of some of the wire. Then simply put the wire into the new terminal and tighten it down.

Positive cable likely has 1 of the main high amp fuses built into it, and along with the cable rot, would have to cut it back and then cable too short... better off with factory built cable... you can replace it yourself, not hard, start at battery and follow cable to other end.. replace with new cable assembly.

 

[rsquared]

QUOTE (sbr711 @ May 24 2010, 08:31 PM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=325980

Positive cable likely has 1 of the main high amp fuses built into it, and along with the cable rot, would have to cut it back and then cable too short... better off with factory built cable... you can replace it yourself, not hard, start at battery and follow cable to other end.. replace with new cable assembly.

LMAO, it goes from the battery to the power distribion box. You would think...someone with you knowledge would know that. Lol.

Where does the + cable go on a 65 Chev SS 327?

 

[sbr711]

QUOTE (rsquared @ May 29 2010, 12:54 AM) index.php?act=findpost&pid=327567

LMAO, it goes from the battery to the power distribion box. You would think...someone with you knowledge would know that. Lol.

Where does the starter get it power from? Surely not from "distribion box, car aint gots one. Lol.

According to my Hyundai wire diagram at my dealer login, battery cable is lined out to the starter, with second wire on the battery clamp going to the Engine compartment relay & fuse box as worded on the Hyundai site ETM.

Where does the + cable go on a 65 Chev SS 327?
The larger gauge cable on mine ran from the battery post to the high amp post on the starter solenoid to drive the starter when key turned to start position, had a smaller gauge wire that went in into the vehicle to supply source voltage to other switched and hot at all time items.

My ground cable went from battery negative to the block, with extra ground wire from battery to body

Site wont allow me to paste SVG from Hyundai, and it wont take SVG images from other sources.

 

[rsquared]

You are a very lucky person. Every 1960's vehicle I've seen only has one + battery cable...going to the starter. The ignition and fuse block was fed from this point of the starter.
I must be mistaken. The heavy gauge wire coming into the + side of the "distribion", or when I type slower..."distribution", also known as the engine compartment relay/fuse block, comes from the starter and not the battery? Enlighten me.

 

[jguarfn28]

I know this has been here a while but I needed some reference for the subject and I found a quick fix at AutoZone in the form of a adaptive cable for $14. My problem was heavy corrosion had damaged the positive cable to the point it snapped off at the post. THis adaptor enabled me to trim back the cables and have extra reach to easily attach to the post and it is as good as new. Good alternative to replacing the cables as it is wrapped in a cable wrap and figuring out where it is and where it goes is a p.i.t.a.