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Discussion Starter #1
Had my alternator fail on my 2011 Sonata GLS. Replaced the alternator and the car won't completely turn over. It turned over once or twice for less than a second. The turning seems a little slower or bogged down than the norm. Any idea if this might be the starter? Started was replaced a few years back.
 

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How did you connect the jumper leads? You may have a dirty battery terminal or bad earths are also common. Try rejumping and connect the negative directly to a good earth on the engine. Still retest the battery as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Not sure on the quality of my leads. They've been used before to jump. Connected my red+, other red+, my black-, other black-. Ill try to retest tomorrow. Read another post nearly spot on with my symptoms that ended up being fuel pump. Going to scan tomorrow for a code.
 

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A faulty fuel pump stopped someones engine from cranking over?
I don't see how one thing can have an effect of the other. But if you read it on the internet it must be totally true.

What were the symptoms of the alternator failure? Were you having any starting issues before having the alternator replaced? It's a little odd that your battery tested out perfectly fine if you had been driving with an alternator that wasn't charging it.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
I'm just trying to relate my symptoms. Not saying it's true.

The car began to just not turnover. Weather warmed up a bit and was able to start. Drove it that night to test the battery and all was good. Power nearly cut out while beginning to accelerate from a stoplight. Next morning car started just fine. Drove 1 block and car died while driving. Tested the alternator and it had failed. Replaced alternator and now car won't turnover. Cranking seems labored and slow.
 

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Battery tested out perfectly fine prior to the alternator replacement. Should I test again?
Sounds like a poor ground(s) somewhere...check all the braided-wire grounds (to chassis) and clean them up. (They're not necessarily braided-wire)
 

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Measure your battery terminal voltages with a good DVM with no load and then when trying to crank the engine. Now do the same thing but measure the voltage directly on the large power wire connected to the starter motor. Post the results back here for comment.
 

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I think when he says the engine doesn't fully turn over what he actually means is it cranks over OK but doesn't fire up. And when he says it It turned over once or twice for less than a second, I assume that means the engine started but wouldn't keep running. So I suppose that could be due to a fuel pressure issue. It could be due to a lot of other things too though.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
I think when he says the engine doesn't fully turn over what he actually means is it cranks over OK but doesn't fire up. And when he says it It turned over once or twice for less than a second, I assume that means the engine started but wouldn't keep running. So I suppose that could be due to a fuel pressure issue. It could be due to a lot of other things too though.
100% correct
 

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100% correct
Generally when folk are talking about problems with the engine turning over they mean the starter isn't cranking it over properly. So we were initially thinking that was your problem too. That's why I didn't understand the connection to the fuel pump which has nothing to do with how the engine cranks. It's also why folk are telling you to check your battery and grounds. Because those are things that can stop the engine from cranking properly, but aren't really relevant to the fault your actually trying to diagnose.

It kinda sounds like your description of the fault maybe confused the garage that checked it and replaced the alternator too. A faulty alternator could fit with your description of the fault (cutting out while driving and then wont crank) but doesn't fit with the actual symptoms the car is showing (cutting out while driving then does crank but wont fire up). BTW, the engine cutting out while driving and not firing up right away is often a symptom of a faulty crank position sensor. It might be wise to try replacing the relatively cheap sensor before throwing significant money at a high pressure fuel pump.
 
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