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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Anyone done it? I'm almost at 3 years and 40K and figure I should get around to it. If it is easy enough I'd rather do it myself. (I found the belt from Hyundai for less than 25 bucks... So it is worth replacing every so often in my opinion.)
 

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UD/MD drive belt rather easy to do, just be sure to do it on cold engine, I have burnt my hand on hot engine (aluminum holds heat) reaching in to flip belt onto pulley..

We normally replace belt(s) when we do the 60 service on a timing belt car, UD/MD is chain and 1 drive belt, so belt at 60 is only thing we do..
 

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I wouldn't worry about it @ 3 years unless there were signs of cracking or fraying. Check your manual... drive belt is generally good for at least 6 years.

Every time I'm tempted to over-service my car I remind myself that it's not a helicopter. I get more value from $25 by bringing home flowers and a bottle of wine ;)
 

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I am not planning to replace mine until it shows signs of wear. They don't make these belts like they used to, they make them better. A regular visual inspection will save you lots of time and money on most vehicle maintenance.
 

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I get more value from $25 by bringing home flowers and a bottle of wine ;)
Someone had a fun on Valentine's Day. :w00t: :dinnerfor2: Way to go, Don. Teach these youngsters a thing or two...

I'll take a look at mine this afternoon during the NICE 74F afternoon weather. At 36K, I'm sure it will look fine. Doesn't cost anything to look. And for $25, you get more than a look... :grin:
 

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I am not planning to replace mine until it shows signs of wear. They don't make these belts like they used to, they make them better. A regular visual inspection will save you lots of time and money on most vehicle maintenance.

+1 these are easily viewed and you can see hairline cracks etc and determine if needed. Probably not at 40,000. Like hoses the belts have become much more reliable. Hoses 20 years ago were replaced every 4 years or so as they had cracked or leaked and today most can go 10 years without replacement with periodic inspections. Drive belts, start checking at 60,000 miles and every oil change after that. Timing belts, cannot see for the most part and should be changed when recommended. Bad case, car stops if broken, worst case, if an interference engine, and you total the engine. If you have an interference engine you don't play around with a timing belt replacement, you get it done when recommended. I have no idea if Hyundai even produces an interference engine but I did have one of these on another vehicle.
 

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Nice thing about this engine is there in no timing "belt." Someone finally woke up and went back to installing timing "chains" in these engines. There's a $400 savings. And you're right, armtdm, cracks are noticeable.

I have seen owners in the past with cars that had drive belts looking like they were ready to break in the next few seconds without a moment's notice. Some even having frayed cords. And the owners: "Oh, really?" was their usual comment. If you see a crack, replace. If not, keep on keeping on.
 

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Serpentine belts get replaced in my cars when a) the alternator starts squealing under high electrical load in wet weather, or b) when I'm doing other service work that requires the belt to be taken off and the belt already has some 60k+miles, like replacing an alternator or water pump etc. Otherwise, I treat it as a non-wear item. They will tell you when it is time before a catastrophic failure. I'm sure there are some people who have had broken belts. But I've never seen one. And if there was one, I'd bet it was squealing for a long time before it broke.

Actually, I got fooled one time. I replaced a belt a 2nd time with ~ 5-10K miles on it because the alt was occasionally squealing, especially in cold weather. It ended up to be a faulty alternator that was sometimes shorting out, putting a big load on the belt.


Nice thing about this engine is there in no timing "belt." Someone finally woke up and went back to installing timing "chains" in these engines. There's a $400 savings. And you're right, armtdm, cracks are noticeable.
$400 is cheap. My dealer quoted me $700+ to replace the timing belt on my PT Cruiser, a year ago. Instead, I did it myself and spent a week replacing it.(I had to do it 2X, don't ask) It was the one of the worst jobs I have ever done on that car. Much worse than removing and replacing the front subframe on that car! Basically I had to disconnect the engine mounts from the chassis just to slide the entire powertrain over about 1 inch to clear the right side inner fender!

When looking for a new car (eventually became the Elantra) I did specifically look for a car without a timing belt!
 

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$400 is cheap. My dealer quoted me $700+ to replace the timing belt on my PT Cruiser, a year ago. Instead, I did it myself and spent a week replacing it.(I had to do it 2X, don't ask) It was the one of the worst jobs I have ever done on that car.
Ha,$700 depends on the vehicle well my ex 3000GT VR4 (1997) interference engine only had 57,000 on it when I sold it and one reason was the maintenance cost. I had the timing belt replaced once when it was 8 years old and even though mileage was low it was going on another 8 years and the dealer wanted $1,300 to do it. Actually a good price too, all labor, no room under the hood twin turbo and I decided it was time to let her go. No one would work on that engine only the dealer so not many options and then the last Mitsubishi dealer in the area went under so it was an omen.

I agree, a timing chain was a big + in looking for a car. I am tired of timing belts. The Camry Hybrid has no belts at all, chain in the engine and 100 % electric motors drive everything whereas other hybrids still have belts for the A/C, water pump etc. My hybrid still has drive belts and OMG, are they hard to get too, will be a fortune to replace when needed. Just buried under all the crap.
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Seems like I'm golden for another 20K.

I looked at the service manual and it is very easy to do. (Loosen the alternator bolts and the belt tension bolt and it's all done.)
 

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Seems like I'm golden for another 20K.

I looked at the service manual and it is very easy to do. (Loosen the alternator bolts and the belt tension bolt and it's all done.)
Just remember to retighten everything back to spec after the install. Don't ask! :blush:
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Just remember to retighten everything back to spec after the install. Don't ask! :blush:
Mhm... Something tells me you have had an issue with that in the past..?

It's okay. We all make mistakes. :p
 

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by far the best way to make sure that belt doesn't break: look at it.

forget mileage, its all a guess. looking at it will tell you far more.
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
The belt looks okay, I figure I've got another 2 years on it (I live in Texas.... where it is hot, and humid, and hot, and sometimes cold if the stars align correctly) without having to worry about it. :)
 
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