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this bolt can be very tight, it's not a left hand thread. the best method is to use an air wrench (3/4 drive if you can) but if you do not have acsess to this try a socket on a long swing bar, fit it on the crankshaft pulley bolt at around four a clock position and flick the starter switch so that the swing bar hits the ground and with luck the inpact will losen the bolt (make sure the swing bar hits something solid when it hits the ground) or you could remove the starter motor and have a pal jam a large screwdriver in the flywheel ring gear while you loosen the bolt (don't try this on vehicles with auto trans. or you could damage the drive plate)
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
I have successfully removed the crankshaft bolt by the following method:

1) I bought a piece of "c" channel from home depot and drilled three holes the same pattern as the ones that hold the pulley on. I cut a slot for the crank bolt. This is 36 inches long and heavy duty. I propped it against the front frame rail. Tightened the bolts very tight to avoid damage.

2) I then put a 22MM 6 sided socket (actually 7/8") on the bolt, a short extension, and a 3/4 inch breaker bar (round). I made an extender with a piece of 3/4 black iron pipe. I jacked the car up taller and put in on a heavy duty jack stand. The piece of pipe I could fit under the car was 21". I braced myself on the steering knuckle and pulled very hard and it finally came loose.

Air impact wrench, and starter method did not work. Good ideas, but alas a BFW was the solution.

If anyone is interested, I'll post pics of the bar.

Cheers.
 

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HEY !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
HYUNDAISTEPDAD------------I NEED YOUR HELP. IM HAVING A HELLOVA TIME TRYING TO GET THIS CRANKSHAFT BOLT OFF SO I CAN GET TO THE CRANKSHAFT POSIONTIONING SENSOR AND THE BALANCE SHAFT BELT. THE COMPUTER CODE SAYS ITS THE SENSOR, BUT SINCE WE HAVE GOTTEN DOWN TO THAT BOLT, HAVE RELIZED THAT THE SMALL BELT IS BROKE, AS WELL. NOT SURE IF THE DIAGNOSTIC IS READING CORRECTLY BUT EITHER WAY I NEED TO REMOVE THAT BOLT. YOU MENTIONED A TOOL THAT YOU HAD BUILT AND DO HAVE SOMEWHAT OF A VISUALIZATION. BUT CAN YOU AND WUD YOU PLEASE POST SUM PIX, SO I CAN GET MY CAR BACK ON THE ROAD. I KNOW ONCE BEFORE WE HAVE HAD TO MAKE AND FABRICATE A TOOL FOR THE REAR BRAKES. WHY ARENT HYUNDAI RELEASING THESE TOOLS TO US SO WE DONT HAVE TO GO THRU THIS. IT HAS TAKEN ME 6 YRS TO FIND JUST A HAYNES MANUAL FOR THIS 2001 SONATA AND IT WAS BY PURE LUCK. ALSO...WHEN UNTIGHTNING THE NUT ARE WE GOING LEFTY LOOSY AS USUAL, OR IS THIS THING BACKWARDS?????
THANKS FOR ALL YOUR HELP...YOU CAN ALSO EMAIL ME DIRECT PIX OF THE TOOL [email protected] IM DESPERATE HERE...NEED HELP....CANT BE WITHOUT MY VEHICLE
 

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Hyundaistepdad;
I was wondering since I wanted to make a tool for my Hyundai Accent (since I cant Crankshaft get pulley nut off) does the Sonata Pulley look like Accent pulley see image
But I was afraid to use a piece of metal and three prongs to insert in between spokes of pulley
 

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Can not get this bolt loose on my 2000 Elantra. I have a chain wrench that I'm using to immobilize the pulley and a long socket wrench, but while the pulley isn't moving (I put a chalk mark on it to make sure), the nut is turning slowly and I can see the timing belt moving if I look up through the engine. It's like the nut is turning inside the pulley.
 

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2008 Accent 3 dr 5 sp manual; 2010 Genesis Coupe 2LT track 6 sp manual
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Can not get this bolt loose on my 2000 Elantra. I have a chain wrench that I'm using to immobilize the pulley and a long socket wrench, but while the pulley isn't moving (I put a chalk mark on it to make sure), the nut is turning slowly and I can see the timing belt moving if I look up through the engine. It's like the nut is turning inside the pulley.
Hyundai crank pulleys have separated in the past into two pieces.
 

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2008 Accent 3 dr 5 sp manual; 2010 Genesis Coupe 2LT track 6 sp manual
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If the timing belt is moving when the bolt is turned and the crank pulley isn't them the crank pulley has separated into two pieces. It has to come off one way or another.

I would get a long breaker bar and a piece of pipe to slip over it. Attach all to the pulley bolt and orient the pipe so as it will hit the ground when the engine is turned over. Then go crank the key in a very short burst. Usually takes two times with the key.
 

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i have yet to pull the crank bolt off the elantra, but here are some things i have learned. if the bolt/nut has never been off before, it is gonna be tough. if the bolt/nut is a flange bolt/nut(they look like they have a washer on them), it's gonna be tough. impacts that are sold in kits, or are given with a compressor are puny. you are going to need at least 500 ft/lbs, and even that is iffy. even 600 ft/lbs with 1/4" hose probably wont get it done. i have 2 cordless impacts, one is 300 ft/lbs, and it will remove almost all the nuts/bolts on a car. if that dont work, then i call fat albert, my ir with 780 ft/lbs. i call that getting even. fat albert cost me 360$, but the first time i used it, the satisfaction alone was worth it.
 

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Well using a 1/2" drive socket and a 14" long ratchet along with the engine cranking did it! Once I figured out that the bar should be toward the front of the car, I put a piece of plywood on the garage floor to protect it and then I lowered the jack until I was sure the bar would hit it (I have the passenger side tire off). Then i reconnected the negative wire to the battery and cranked the engine real quick. I just flicked the key forward and right back again. The first time the front of the car actually lurched upward when the bar made contact with the floor. Then I got out and reset the bar and plywood by hand and hit the key again. This time the front of the car didn't move. So I pulled the socket off and the bolt was loose enough that I could remove it by hand.

Thanks again for all the help!
 

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I know that this is an old thread but I just wanted to add my experience here to share with someone who is desperately searching for help. I have a 2002 V6 sonata. I have the car's front on jack stands right now. I tried the starter bump method and it didn't work. It could be that I had the car up on jack stands and my breaker bar was banging against a suspension part instead of the car being on the ground and the breaker bar banging the ground. In any case, after trying breaker bar/extension combination, I finally got the bolt off with heat and a Milwaukee 18V electric 1/2" impact (about 400 flbs of torque). It took a while for the impact to loosen the bolt but the first moment I detected the bolt slightly move, it encouraged me to keep going at it. So that was the first round. I then took off the accessory belts and the pulley but I forgot to line up the timing marks on the camshaft sprockets and the crankshaft sprocket. I put the bolt back on and tried to line up the marks (unbeknownst to me I stripped my bolt's threads). Then when it was time to take the bolt out to reassembly stuffs, I COULD NOT take the dang bolt off!!! The crankshaft was now hold by the timing belt and my Milwaukee impact couldn't loosen it. I believe it was because the crankshaft was moving with the rotation so much less force was put on the bolt. I tried a Husky 700 ft lbs air impact with a 20-gallon Craftsman air compressor and that didn't work either (I think the Craftsman didn't put out enough CFM and plus the crankshaft was not immobilized). I tried immobilizing the crankshaft by screwing some bolts in to hold the front camshaft stationary with the timing belt on but it didn't help. I even managed to bend the small bolts but luckily I stopped before I damaged something else. I was very very desperate at this point and even considering hiring a mobile mech to come and do the work. Then I read online and saw someone use the nylon rope trick. Long story short, with the help of a Makita 5.5 gallon (6.4 CFM), 3/8" air hose, 1000 ft lbs 1/2 Earthquake impact and some nylon rope from Walmart, I was able to got the bolt out! Can't describe the satisfaction. That was when I found out I stripped the bolt's threads.

So a new bolt is on order and I can't wait to put my car back together again!
 

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Kobalt 750psi 1/2" impact gun will do it. Trick is that you have to go back and forth (tighten loosen) to break the threads grip. Most people just try in the loosen direction. Highly recommend both directions. Also, I let it sit for 5 minutes in between attempts. Not sure if that helped, but thats what worked for me. Of course, I had the time belt on and overhead cam sprockets locked in place.
 

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I tried all of these methods with no luck. Here's what worked for me. I tied a loop in and wrapped a 1/8 cable around the pulley several times then secured the other end to my engine hoist and put a lot of tension on it. Then I bumped the starter over and bam. Finally!
 

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Doesn't it have torque limiter on tightening mode ? Mine (loosening torque 700Nm) has 4 steps, they equal roughly 100/140/180/220Nm. That's what it needs (180-190Nm).
It's a cheap variable speed, so probably that's how you can control the torque, continuously. However, not very controllable IMO, a slip of the finger and...
That tool has 1050 ft.lbs break-away, that is 1400 Nm. One of the best purchases I had made.
I have a cordless one too, smaller torque.
 
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