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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi all.

Hope that there could be someone in this forum with detailed knowledge of the electrical wiring for the drivers seat.

I have a Santa Fe 2.2L -awd - 2007 Europa model - done 100 000km.

What I would like to do is to change out all the seats to a leather interior. I have fabric seat at front that is non electrical operated (Only el. heated). The new drivers seat is electrical operated, is it possible just to do a swap over of the seat or is there a mismatch between the original seat connectors in the floor and the connector on the el. operated seat?

If so, what do I need to do to get all functions working on the new seat?
Local Hyundai shop said that there should not be any problem changing over, but from experience it is always best to ask for other opinions..
 

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Wow - interesting question. We don't have access to the standard harness diagrams over here, so all I can tell you is what WE would see and keep my fingers crossed.

The power seat switch gets its power from a piece of harness that you'll find with your new power seat, and that it turn gets all of the power from a connector called FS01 that ties in with the floor harness. If you had heated seats, then you should already have FS01 in place, and connecting it to the new seat should provide the necessary power.

Look for a connector pair like the one shown in the illustration I'm attaching. Pin 13 (red wire on vehicle side, and will be blue wire on new seat side) will have the power for the seat motors, and pin 20 (black on both sides) will have the ground. Both will be wires of substantial gauge.
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Thx for the quick reply canderson.

I have looked at that connector that you refer to just before traveling offshore for work.

From what I could see with seat bolted down and raised to max height :) if I`m not mistaken there are only 6 wires connected from vehicle to the connector FS01 and on the new seat I counted 8 wires which would be accurate according to the drawing you attached.

So on the picture you attached, just to confirm male side of connector would be the vehicle?
Also do you have a overview of the wire color coding that refers to the numbering so that I can undo the holding down bolts and get to the FS01 for a closer look.

If that wire is missing red\blue, what to do then?

Thx for your time so far!
 

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If you don't find the two pins I mentioned populated with the red and black wire, things get more complicated. Possible, but complicated. Let's see what you find, first.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Happy new year.

Now that all the holidays has passed I finally had the time to do some fun stuff :)

I dismantled the drivers seat from the floor to get better access to the harness. Attached is the floor seat connector.

So based on the attached drawing that you provided canderson, it may look like that I have to move

- Red wire from pos. 16 to pos 13 (So that it connect with Blue wire on seat connector)

- Black wire from pos. 04 to pos 20. (So that it connect with black wire on seat connector)

Do you agree?
 

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Nuts. That's what I was afraid of. Your harness is not fully populated for both heat and motion.

Yes, I see the fat red wire in 16 and fat black wire in 4 in the one you are holding.

I'm going to assume for a moment that your new seat will have BOTH heat and power drive functions.

The power for seat heat and seat movement are separated on the connector. What you show so clearly in your hand seems to be different than what we have recorded here.

The red wire on 16 shouldn't be moved. That is the power for your seat heater. In essence, you need to ADD another +12 at pin 13 to feed the seat motors. I was rather hoping it would already be there.

As far as adding on the ground side of things, I'm showing the left seat heater ground as pin 20, but your photo shows the only fat black ground up on pin 4. That belongs there, and is the normally the ground for warmer module (the control), not the seat heater itself. So your version is clearly somewhat different from ours. Do you have the two little switches in the tray area in front of the shifter that light up with 2 lights for full power, and 1 light for 1/2 power?
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
Can`t say that I am surprised :) due to car not being original delivered with el. operated seats.

Attached picture from the seat hardness, without the el.operating.
As you can see, the black wire doesn`t connect with anything to the floor hardness.

I have two lights to indicate full power to the seat heating.

So like your saying then, adding a 12V power sup. to the 13 pin.
Is it possible to take the sup. from any of the other cables?

Or, my favorite.
If the red wire is 12V:
Move the red wire to Pin 13 on the floor harness because I never use the seat heater and I also believe there is a 30A fuse inline..
With that in mind, should I move the black wire to Pin 20 on the floor harness so that it matches the ground wire on the seat hardness?
 

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Of course you'll want to match things up pin for pin, but if you don't need the seat heater, I can see no harm in using the 12V and ground that were intended for seat heat for the motorized operation instead. All the seat motor controls need is +12 at FS01-13 and ground at FS01-20. The wire gauge normally employed in those positions is identical to what you already have in place on the other two pins.

Now what WILL be different is that you must remember that your seat is now powered through your 25A fuse called S/WARMER instead of the normal 30A fuse called P/SEAT. Since all of these supply circuits use the same 2.0 gauge wire, it will be acceptable to swap the S/WARMER fuse from 25A to 30A IF it becomes necessary, but I doubt you will ever exceed the rating of the 25A fuse.
 
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