[Massguy]

I've been doing some research and trying to figure out what I'm going to do with my 2014 HSH. I like the car. It looks good, is comfortable, has plenty of room, and gets great gas mileage. My only complaint is the low end hesitation. I hate having to wait 2-3 seconds for it to accelerate when I lay into the throttle at low speeds.

I drive about 20K miles per year so it's quickly approaching 70K after 3 1/2 years. I'd like two keep the car but don't want to end up with big repair bills in the future. The 5/60K warranty is over and the 100K powertrain warranty will be done in about 18 months. One thing that I read during my search is the ACC sensor can cost $3400 to replace. There is a lot of other expensive technology in these cars. I don't think I can purchase an extended warranty now. Currently looking into that and if it will be worth it.

My loan is currently at about $10K. That's another reason why I rather keep the car. I don't want another big car loan. I guess it's either trade this in, maybe break even and pay the price getting a new car with a warranty. Or, keep this car, maybe have to put out cash for expensive repairs or I'll be lucky and it will go for awhile without needing anything.

There are probably a bunch of 2011-'13s in the 100K plus range. How are they holding up?

 

[DarrenBach]

I just bought mine from a private party with 143K...I bit high for my liking but it is rock solid and drives like new. Over 40mpg and plenty of pep when you need it! (hope you're interested in non-hybrid YF)

 

[colinr4329]

I've been doing some research and trying to figure out what I'm going to do with my 2014 HSH. I like the car. It looks good, is comfortable, has plenty of room, and gets great gas mileage. My only complaint is the low end hesitation. I hate having to wait 2-3 seconds for it to accelerate when I lay into the throttle at low speeds.

I drive about 20K miles per year so it's quickly approaching 70K after 3 1/2 years. I'd like two keep the car but don't want to end up with big repair bills in the future. The 5/60K warranty is over and the 100K powertrain warranty will be done in about 18 months. One thing that I read during my search is the ACC sensor can cost $3400 to replace. There is a lot of other expensive technology in these cars. I don't think I can purchase an extended warranty now. Currently looking into that and if it will be worth it.

My loan is currently at about $10K. That's another reason why I rather keep the car. I don't want another big car loan. I guess it's either trade this in, maybe break even and pay the price getting a new car with a warranty. Or, keep this car, maybe have to put out cash for expensive repairs or I'll be lucky and it will go for awhile without needing anything.

There are probably a bunch of 2011-'13s in the 100K plus range. How are they holding up?

I sympathise with you as I went through the same issues myself and looked at the following options.

If I keep the car I will lose more money in deprecation and as the car gets older parts will require replacement therefore trapping me into long term ownership.

Bit the bullet and sell the car and avoid greater deprecation but wear the cost of additional finance for a new vehicle, the upside is not worrying about possible maintenance costs on your exiting vehicle

Bear in mind any dislike for your current vehicle may expand with any additional faults that may appear.

This is a very difficult decision to make and I wish you luck

 

[NXR71]

I wonder how much of the "expensive tech" is affected by mileage. The electric motor and hybrid battery for sure, but what else? Electronics typically is affected by heat and cold cycling more than age until ten or more years or so. Anything that emits a signal like the Smart Cruise Control, particularly if it's light or laser, might deteriorate with age but they typically are powered only a few hours a day if that.

 

[armtdm]

Kepp the car and run it into the ground. It appears that since you had the large loan to begin with you need to save money, trading a car in every 3-5 years is killing the ability to save, always having car payments etc. Unless leasing is an option I vote to keep the car, still a babe in the woods as to mileage.

 

[Frank Xu]

Most expensive part in this car may be the hybrid battery, but they should be reliable for at least 10 years. Beside, on ebay you can find per-owned replacements for $300-400.
Hybrid belts can be an issue, as long as you check them routinely and follow the manual they will be all set.
Electric motor is very reliable. I have never seen complaints about motor burnout/ stop working.
I bet this car can go 150k miles or more!

 

[Massguy]

Not that I want to but I think I'll always have a car payment. I've had one or more since 1989. The other question in my mind is what I would I buy if I want to get out of this car. I like the new Honda Accord and Toyota Camry but they, along with most cars have a 3/36000 mile basic warranty and 5/60K mile powertrain warranty. I'd go through one of those warranties in less than 2 years so that takes me back to Hyundai and Kia.

I think if I do replace the car I'll wait until late in the model year. I bought this car the beginning of September '14. The discounts are good because it's the end of the model year and it's a low mileage car for a short about of time. I've considered leasing but I drive to much to make it worth it.

One thing that I should have replaced soon is the hybrid belt. I believe that's a few hundred dollars. That will be the start of the high maintaince costs. So far I've only done oil. filters and tires. The car has been pretty good.

 

[Massguy]

Most expensive part in this car may be the hybrid battery, but they should be reliable for at least 10 years. Beside, on ebay you can find per-owned replacements for $300-400.
Hybrid belts can be an issue, as long as you check them routinely and follow the manual they will be all set.
Electric motor is very reliable. I have never seen complaints about motor burnout/ stop working.
I bet this car can go 150k miles or more!

Can the hybrid belt be seen while looking down that side of the engine compartment? I've glanced down there but haven't taken a good look. I've been wanting to check the condition of the belt.

 

[Frank Xu]

Not that I want to but I think I'll always have a car payment. I've had one or more since 1989. The other question in my mind is what I would I buy if I want to get out of this car. I like the new Honda Accord and Toyota Camry but they, along with most cars have a 3/36000 mile basic warranty and 5/60K mile powertrain warranty. I'd go through one of those warranties in less than 2 years so that takes me back to Hyundai and Kia.

I think if I do replace the car I'll wait until late in the model year. I bought this car the beginning of September '14. The discounts are good because it's the end of the model year and it's a low mileage car for a short about of time. I've considered leasing but I drive to much to make it worth it.

One thing that I should have replaced soon is the hybrid belt. I believe that's a few hundred dollars. That will be the start of the high maintenance costs. So far I've only done oil. filters and tires. The car has been pretty good.

At 60k mileage the manual or dealer will ask you to change spark plugs, hybrid belts, wheel alignment and whole other stuff. This maintenance will cost nearly $1k if you go to the dealer.
Also, hybrid car is a good bargain for people finding per-owned vehicle because their value shrink faster than non-hybrids. Seems like your car has the ultimate package. For a new car like yours, MSRP can exceed $30k. If you drive for 5 or 6 years and try selling it out, it may only worth $12k-15k.

 

[Massguy]

At 60k mileage the manual or dealer will ask you to change spark plugs, hybrid belts, wheel alignment and whole other stuff. This maintenance will cost nearly $1k if you go to the dealer.
Also, hybrid car is a good bargain for people finding per-owned vehicle because their value shrink faster than non-hybrids. Seems like your car has the ultimate package. For a new car like yours, MSRP can exceed $30k. If you drive for 5 or 6 years and try selling it out, it may only worth $12k-15k.

The sticker price for my car was $33,080. I got them down to $28,995 plus there was a $3K rebate so it ended up being $25,995. I don't know how accurate KBB is. They show the average trade in value to be $9850 and average private party value to be $12,800. Hybrids loose their value faster than non-hybrids? I checked the to see what KBB lists for a price for a 2012 model like mine. That will give me an idea what it might be worth in two years. They show $5200 for the average trade in and $8500 for the average private party sale.

The dealer didn't suggest anything when I brought the car in just after 60K. Maybe because I always say no when they try to upsell me. I did get new tires and an alignment during that visit. I can do the plugs myself if needed.

 

[NXR71]

The hybrid belt replacement interval on the '16 is 60,000 miles. Replacing it is cheap insurance and I will have the dealer do it even if it is more expensive because I bought the extended warranty.

 

[supercell]

There are probably a bunch of 2011-'13s in the 100K plus range. How are they holding up?

Hey Massguy. My 2011 is approaching 180K and honestly drives as well as the day I bought it. The most expensive repair I had was when I neglected to change the belts at the first 60K and it broke mid-drive. I can't really count that, since it was my fault for not changing the belt. I still get 40mpg and the hesitation is minimal when I turn off blue drive (my preferred way of driving it).
I will most likely trade/sell it this summer, but not because it doesn't run well. It's just time for a new car.

 

[vinnyg]

Wow Super, 180K is not bad! Going on your 3rd timing belt swap already. My neighbor's Outback had over 260,000 miles on it, but he let the latest timing belt maintenance slide and of course it broke and destroyed the interference engine. (He junked it and got $500, and went right out and bought a new Forester). With proper basic maintenance, there's no reason why we shouldn't get an easy 200K out of these cars. With the 40 mpg you still get and gas prices being what they are, you are doing great as far as your investment goes. I'm still waiting for the MPG lawsuit to be settled to get my card again. They must owe you a ton.

 

[Massguy]

Hey Massguy. My 2011 is approaching 180K and honestly drives as well as the day I bought it. The most expensive repair I had was when I neglected to change the belts at the first 60K and it broke mid-drive. I can't really count that, since it was my fault for not changing the belt. I still get 40mpg and the hesitation is minimal when I turn off blue drive (my preferred way of driving it).
I will most likely trade/sell it this summer, but not because it doesn't run well. It's just time for a new car.

Can we see the belt to check the condition or is it buried/can only be seen from the bottom? I've read it's a pain to change, at least for one person doing it the first time. And was anything else damaged when the belt broke? I should probably make a few calls to get quotes for a new one installed.

 

[NXR71]

Dunno, but SBR711 (?) mentioned he has seen some older cars where the tensioners failed and caused the belt failure. Yet another reason why I'll let the dealer do mine.

 

[supercell]

Wow Super, 180K is not bad! Going on your 3rd timing belt swap already. My neighbor's Outback had over 260,000 miles on it, but he let the latest timing belt maintenance slide and of course it broke and destroyed the interference engine. (He junked it and got $500, and went right out and bought a new Forester). With proper basic maintenance, there's no reason why we shouldn't get an easy 200K out of these cars. With the 40 mpg you still get and gas prices being what they are, you are doing great as far as your investment goes. I'm still waiting for the MPG lawsuit to be settled to get my card again. They must owe you a ton.

Belts were last done at 135K ($227 at dealer) so I should be good for the remainder of my ownership. Oil changes were done every 7-10K with full synthetic and tranny was flushed every 60K.

As far as the settlements, those debit cards never stopped for me. Every time I'm at the dealer I have them do a mileage verification and two weeks later I get another debit card. So far they've paid me $700 and I think they owe me another $150 now.

How long are you keeping yours?

 

[supercell]

Dunno, but SBR711 (?) mentioned he has seen some older cars where the tensioners failed and caused the belt failure. Yet another reason why I'll let the dealer do mine.

My belts failed at around 75K miles. The car had to be towed to Hyundai and the tensioner also had to be replaced. They didn't have the belt in stock, so the car sat for two days before being repaired. It was a $500 repair.

We discussed it here:

http://www.hyundai-forums.com/sonata-all-hybrid-models-yf-lf/228786-hsg-belt-replacement.html

 

[vinnyg]

Belts were last done at 135K ($227 at dealer) so I should be good for the remainder of my ownership. Oil changes were done every 7-10K with full synthetic and tranny was flushed every 60K.

As far as the settlements, those debit cards never stopped for me. Every time I'm at the dealer I have them do a mileage verification and two weeks later I get another debit card. So far they've paid me $700 and I think they owe me another $150 now.

How long are you keeping yours?

I plan on keeping mine a good long while, as long as it doesn't start giving me major problems.
I just checked the MPG settlement site and it says this:

The federal district court approved the settlement in June 2015. Based on that order, we anticipated mailing out settlement payments by early Fall 2015. Unfortunately, six different appeals were filed in connection with the settlement, forcing Hyundai to halt any settlement payments. In January 2018, the appellate court ruled that the trial court should re-evaluate the settlement in light of differences in the law of each State within the nationwide settlement class.* Additional appellate procedures are pending.* As a result, it is currently unclear when the settlement will be re-evaluated and, if appropriate, become final.* Until resolved, we are not able to move things forward and mail out settlement payments. We apologize for the inconvenience. You can check this website for the most current information.
Information current as of March 4, 2018
https://www.hyundaimpgclasssettlement.com/

 

[supercell]

I plan on keeping mine a good long while, as long as it doesn't start giving me major problems.
I just checked the MPG settlement site and it says this:

The federal district court approved the settlement in June 2015. Based on that order, we anticipated mailing out settlement payments by early Fall 2015. Unfortunately, six different appeals were filed in connection with the settlement, forcing Hyundai to halt any settlement payments. In January 2018, the appellate court ruled that the trial court should re-evaluate the settlement in light of differences in the law of each State within the nationwide settlement class.* Additional appellate procedures are pending.* As a result, it is currently unclear when the settlement will be re-evaluated and, if appropriate, become final.* Until resolved, we are not able to move things forward and mail out settlement payments. We apologize for the inconvenience. You can check this website for the most current information.
Information current as of March 4, 2018
https://www.hyundaimpgclasssettlement.com/

That's very strange. Did you stop getting debit cards? Did you ever get them?

 

[vinnyg]

I went with the one time payment option since I wasn't driving many miles like I used to. They gave me a payment early on and was supposed to give me a lump sum I believe, but the lawsuit got hung up.
http://www.hyundai-forums.com/sonata-all-hybrid-models-yf-lf/333850-class-action-mpg-lawsuit.html