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Discussion Starter #1
I have never been so to speak a "car guy" and come from a family that knows very little about cars. I'm just learning everything as I go and want to keep my Elantra in top notch condition. I've done the reg. service appts. at the dealership is there any other maintenance I should be doing that they may not? (Expecting Nick to chime in here lol)

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Make sure you check all fluids once a week as well as tire pressure. Don’t forget to check the spare tire air pressure once a month, if provided.
 

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Received a stack of books with this thing, glove compartment is not large enough to hold all of these. Somewhere in there is a brochure, little fold out to record your maintenance and for each mileage, tell you what should be done. Put that in a zip lock bag along with the vehicle registration, and my insurance ID papers.

Chapers 7 and 8 in your owners manual covers maintenance in a little more detail, tell you to check your brakes, but don't tell you how and nothing about how to lubricate them, this they need constantly. Or to spray your suspension joints with silicon. should do a walk around to make sure all of your running lights are working. Nothing about adding splash shields, mud flaps, if you don't will get stone chips on your doors and rear bumper, put this in the common sense class. Or adding silicon to all of your light sockets, if you don't will never get them off, they bake on. Or using anti-seize on your wheel hubs and lug nuts, won't be able to remove your wheel or rotor if you don't.

Stuff like this you pick up over the years, even keeping your spark plugs clean, and the vane in your throttle body, that can stick.
 

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Automatic or manual? What is your actual engine oil change interval (how many kms between oil changes)?
7,500 miles maximum, no ifs, ands, or buts, hmm, that's 12070.08 KM.

Six years in the military, they didn't care about the weather, but felt lucky, could have been dumped in Germany where Hitler forced his kids to go up to the Soviet Union in summer uniforms, arms and legs were frozen off.

I am sure getting soft, 20 years ago insulated and heated my garage, had to remove a heater core in sub zero weather by complete removing the dash first.

Dad left my mom when I was ten years old, no welfare back then, had both a morning and afternoon paper route, Sunday was only morning, did that until I was 16. Also had to walk 3/4 mile to the closest gas station carrying a five gallon can of #1 fuel oil to stay warm. One key reason why I got so interested in cars, parents never had one. Sure read a lot of books on this subject, also learned the hard way.

Got my degree in electronic engineering to learn the other half, was a hands on engineer, got away with showing up in my blue jeans, suppose to wear suits back then, not here for a fashion show, here to solve and work out problems, not on the board and in the vehicles. Ha, other engineers thought they were owned a good living because they slept through a differential equations course, they didn't last long.

Purchased a 30 Olds when I was 14, never told my mom I got it running, use to get up a 2:00 AM and was driving it all over the place, never got caught, LOL.
 

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Ditto on the fluids. Every time I fill up with gas I pop the hood release before I get out, put in the nozzle and start the fuel, then go around and give the tires a quick look (sidewall cuts from curbs. Not so much for my car but the other two in the fleet) then open the hood and bask in the warmth of the engine while checking the oil, look for (and smell for) coolant leaks, washer fluid level, and battery for the beginnings of any connector corrosion.

Just those simple checks done at each fill up can eliminate a lot of aggravation and expense. Any engine that can go from full oil to dangerously low within a tank of gas will be exhibiting other issues (like an oil slick in the driveway. lol), but for the slower leaks this is the best way to catch it early and get it corrected at much lower cost.

If you haven't spent much time with a wrench in your hand, using the dealer for maintenance (assuming you have a good and reputable dealer) is a good plan. They will have records on hand in the (rare) event you have a major issue and remove any question of whether proper maintenance was performed. Also, IF any updates to operating software for the engine, transmission, etc are released by Hyundai, you get it.
 

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I added Techron at 7,5000 miles and replaced cabin filter. I drive severe service so went more buy my manual. I have a little service log book that came with car. They also have it at MyHyundai. Hyundai Assurance/Dealership may recommend things not needed. Just an FYI. They gave me an offer of $199.99 for 7,500 oil change plus other stuff. Made me not trust Hyundai Assurance or Dealership ever.

So, to keep it simple follow the maintenance log book or owner's manual. Always check oil more often after an oil change. Errors/leaks can happen. With dealership recommendations verify here, then trust. My experience so far is they take advantage those that are not well informed.

Regarding spare tire pressure I checked and filled it during tire rotation at 7,500. I like to check tire pressure of other tires monthly and alway when going from warm season to cold season.

Regarding NicholosD,

He reminds me of a bygone era. I remember my Grandma had a farm with smoke house, outhouse, well water, etc. On the other side of my family my Grandfather never had an indoor toilet, just an outhouse. Life was a struggle to survive. NicholosD is a wealth of info and one of kind. I am impressed by what he can do, but realize many of his recommendations are too much for me. As my teacher repeatedly said, take what you like a leave the rest.
 

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On my newer cars, I check the oil every month. Car manuals tell you to check it at every fill up but I much prefer the comfort of my garage versus a windy gas station with a bunch of onlookers.
 

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Dealership suggested Every 6k but I go every 5k it's an automatic, 2.0L engine
Only 5k kms (5,000 kms) or 5k miles (5,000 miles)?

Air filter replacement interval is at every 50,000 kms, but should be inspected at least every 25,000 kms depending on local conditions.
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Only 5k kms (5,000 kms) or 5k miles (5,000 miles)?

Air filter replacement interval is at every 50,000 kms, but should be inspected at least every 25,000 kms depending on local conditions.
5000km the dealership told me my car doesn't require synthetic oil so the reg. interval is suppose to be every 6000km with regular oil.

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Ha, try to keep in mind the Hyundai has the best warranty in the world, try not to do anything to void it.

Received a letter from my Hyundai dealer, Valentine special $399.95 detailing for only $199.95, ha, in this kind of weather would last two minutes, will detail myself when spring comes, if it ever comes.

Also receive a letter from OnStar for my old 2012 Cruze, three years for free, only wish that was from BlueLink.
 

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Dealership suggested Every 6k but I go every 5k it's an automatic, 2.0L engine
Ha, my Chevy dealer recommended every 3,000 miles so he could charge me $79.99 plus tax and not even replace the oil filter.

Ha, cheap at twice the price. With dexos motor oil, only three bucks more than conventional, oil remaining life, replaced it at 8,000 miles, but could have gone 10,600 miles without voiding the warranty. Replaced it at 20% remaining.
 

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Dealership suggested Every 6k but I go every 5k it's an automatic, 2.0L engine
Lets see 6k is 3,728 miles and 5k is 3,107 miles or not a lot. :laugh:

I did 3 oil changes by 7.5k so I have you beat, but will do severe service 3,750 recommendation from now on.

How much do you want the dealer to do and what are you willing to learn to save money?

Checking/changing air and cabin filter is very easy on this car. Also, adding Techron instead the dealer adding Techron with Hyundai label are ways to save long term. It would mean dealership changing oil and rotating tires.

Another thing is making sure you hose off the salt used on the road as soon as possible, especially the underside of the car.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Lets see 6k is 3,728 miles and 5k is 3,107 miles or not a lot.

I did 3 oil changes by 7.5k so I have you beat, but will do severe service 3,750 recommendation from now on.

How much do you want the dealer to do and what are you willing to learn to save money?

Checking/changing air and cabin filter is very easy on this car. Also, adding Techron instead the dealer adding Techron with Hyundai label are ways to save long term. It would mean dealership changing oil and rotating tires.

Another thing is making sure you hose off the salt used on the road as soon as possible, especially the underside of the car.
I'm willing to learn everything :) and I wash my car at a minimum once bi weekly. I hate it looking dirty although in this weather it only lasts about 5 mins lmao.

Techron?

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Other brands as well, been using Seafoam for years. Hyundai was the first owners manual I have ever read that recommends you pour this stuff in a full tank of gas about every 5K miles or so.

Purchased a Honda motorcycle, no more under the intake valves was loaded with carbon, Seafoam after a couple of tanks cleaned that off, use to do this by hand, but the valves had to be removed first.

Son got a bug to get an SUV, 98 I think, looked at a 1993 Toyota with 80K miles on it, rear windows had rust already, wanted $17K for it, its a Toyota, but he found a 93 Olds Bravada with 65K on it for around $5K, used from a very beautiful woman. But every time we looked at it, was already warmed up. Was really a clean looking vehicle with a leather interior.

After it sat overnight, starting it, huge puff of black smoke came out the exhaust. and was using a quart of oil about every 600 miles. Little research learned GM was just using an O ring under the valve keeper for a seal, Fel-Pro made not only that O'ring, but had that umbrella extra seal exactly like you would find on a 41 Chevy.

We installed these, but also noted the compression was only in the 100-110 range. Took it out at 2:00 AM to a dead road, and poured Seafoam directly into the TB until the engine died, let it soak for about 20 minutes then took it for a drive, swear it left a huge trail of black smoke for ten miles, gave it a 2nd and 3rd treatment so it ran clean.

On the 4.3L V-6 the compression increased to 150 psi, your Elantra should be 185, and oil usage dropped to about a quart every 5,000 miles, this stuff works. Actually put 225K miles on this thing until we finally got rid of it.

Been tossing a can of Seafoam in a full tank of gas about every 4K to get rid of that carbon buildup, so it never gets this bad. Top Tier gas is suppose to do this, but more lies. Also keeps that center electrode insulator on your spark plugs carbon clean longer that will short out your spark. But still have to clean them at about 15K miles.

Also add one ounce of Seafoam per gallon to my gas can for small engines, Snowthrower is already seven years old, have yet to remove the spark plug and only use top tier ethanol free gas. When I pulled out last fall, started on the second pull. Ha, with my two cycle Lawn Boy, had to clean the spark plug each time I used it. Was the same with my 100 HP Johnson 2 cycle outboard, if I didn't do this, would stall in the middle of Lake Michigan.

Carbon is over a hundred year old problem.
 
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